I have just got my zex kit working man I get scared when I hit that button. I love it i want to build up my motor to about 350-400rwhp. i have a couple of ? 1 how much HP can a stock crank take. i was thinking about building my motor like this eagle rods je pistons racing valves, retainers, springs, cams, intake manifold, mafs, injectors, fuel pump,i/h/e, stage 4 clutch, and a nitrous direct port 100 shot. oh ya and MSD ignition and coil what do u think that will get me in HP and what else should i do to my motor to make it more reliable i was thinking of stress reliving my crank and knife edging the crank

The KA crank is really strong. For your app there is no need to spend money on your crank. Replace the rods and pistons And make sure you get ARP head studs/nuts and you will be fine.A better head gasket would also help.

I am Technoman wrote:The KA crank is really strong. For your app there is no need to spend money on your crank. Replace the rods and pistons And make sure you get ARP head studs/nuts and you will be fine.A better head gasket would also help.

I thought ARP doesn't make head studs and nuts for the KA24DE engine? There was a discussion a while back on freshalloy. Some guy actually took the time to do some research and call ARP and they told him they don't have ANY arp apps for the KA24DE.

so u dont think my crank will gernade on me i dont want toe spend several grand on there mods and have the crank gernade

what do u think about all the bearings how stong r they a place by me called rebbelo racing can strengthen the for me foe 80$ a berring do u think thats worth doing i need my motor to last and be strong i am not woryied about spending allot of money cus i am planing on taking out a lown i am allso getting a body kit and paint but if i need some thing for my motori will put off the kit and get the part for my motor i just need some what of relyability

That is my main concern, reliability. When I get a 240 w/ DOHC KA and build the motor im gonna do everything I can to make it more reliable. Hey I dont mean to go off topic but ayone out there with ka24e, do your guy's engines run really hot. I have a 91 stanza w/ a sohc ka and when i open the hood after driving it is so damn hot. You can hear the water boiling in the radiator. The temp gauge never goes above normal but still......

bruinbear714 wrote:I thought ARP doesn't make head studs and nuts for the KA24DE engine?

ARP will make custom fasteners, but it's not cheap.

Asad

asad wrote:ARP will make custom fasteners, but it's not cheap.

Asad

Some guy on ebay is selling ARP head and main studs.

bruinbear714 wrote:Some guy on ebay is selling ARP head and main studs.

Yup, and he had them custom made.

Asad

Not to say KADET guys know more but if you are building your engine for N2O and have some more questions you might want to search through the Turbo boards. Since forced induction puts a sever load on the engine you might be able to pick up some info.

WD

special_K wrote:That is my main concern, reliability. When I get a 240 w/ DOHC KA and build the motor im gonna do everything I can to make it more reliable. Hey I dont mean to go off topic but ayone out there with ka24e, do your guy's engines run really hot. I have a 91 stanza w/ a sohc ka and when i open the hood after driving it is so damn hot. You can hear the water boiling in the radiator. The temp gauge never goes above normal but still......

My SOHC KA was running really hot, but thats cuz my radiator was cracked, now i got a new one and it runs a LOT cooler!

drifter183 wrote: a place by me called rebbelo racing can strengthen the for me foe 80$ a berring do u think thats worth doing

holy crap! what a ripoff. if you really give a damn, get ahold of clevite and see if they have bearings for your car.. its something like 20 bucks per bearing, and they're better than oem.

theres no need for ARP head studs. those are only usefull if you plan on pulling the head off frequently (totally reusable). if anything buy rod bolts.

if you're building the car FOR nitrous.. i think you're over doing it for just a 100 shot. a MSD BTM, 2 step colder plugs, and a good NX kit should be a running 100 shot for a loong time. timing/tuning kills stuff... cast iron is suprisingly strong.