Building a battery shield

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Jesda
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Wondering what materials I need to build a battery shield. When it was 108F this summer I had starting problems and had to put the battery on a charger and drive around town with an extension cord just in case, so I'd like to build a shield like the one in my dad's Benz:


maxnix
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Sorry, but I am not following. Aren't Benz in back by the firewall where they get less cool air?

Probably 30+ days of 100° F heat here and no problems with newish Red Tops.

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Raxephon
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Jesda wrote:Wondering what materials I need to build a battery shield. When it was 108F this summer I had starting problems and had to put the battery on a charger and drive around town with an extension cord just in case, so I'd like to build a shield like the one in my dad's Benz:
1/16th of an inch sheet aluminum(Length and width depends on what car you're placing it in, the size of the battery area, and clearance between top of battery to bottom of hood.)

Insulation: Something akin to dynamat or another type of insulator good for 200 DEG. and up. Weather stripping for the top( similiar to whats used in the trunk or around the doors.

Drill, sheet metal screws, screwdriver, a tape measure, a rolling pin (if dynamat is used), perhaps a pair of short 12" 2x4's to shape any bends or corners you might want to make, and plenty of patience.


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Jesda
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maxnix wrote:Sorry, but I am not following. Aren't Benz in back by the firewall where they get less cool air?

Probably 30+ days of 100° F heat here and no problems with newish Red Tops.
I wasnt planning on moving the battery. Not understanding how that relates to building a heat shield?

Texas doesnt have Missouri humidity. Your 110 is wussy stuff compared to ours.

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Jesda wrote:Texas doesnt have Missouri humidity.
LOL, haven't taken a tour through the South yet, huh, Jesda? No humidity in Austin?? Yeah, heck no.

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Jesda
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I did route 66, then did the southeast tour on my way to Florida. Florida was quite humid! Texas was hot, but not -quite- as muggy.

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Jesda wrote:I did route 66, then did the southeast tour on my way to Florida. Florida was quite humid! Texas was hot, but not -quite- as muggy.
Very true, my buddy in new orleans thought he knew humidity. Thats until he came here a few weeks ago.

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Jesda wrote:Texas doesnt have Missouri humidity. Your 110 is wussy stuff compared to ours.
I remember it being a 100° F and rainging in Houston, watching the freway crack.

In Austin, we are between 440 and 1200 above MSL, so it's not quite as bad, but still pretty much like walking into a sauna in the summer.

What does humidity have to do with battery life?

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Jesda
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Oh man, Kansas is even worse! Love the people there though.
maxnix wrote:What does humidity have to do with battery life?
Aww come on, dont you ever enjoy just talking about the weather?

I'd like to wrap the MAF in some kind of heat insulation too. That seems more important than the battery. Looks like I have a fall project! Thanks anlasak.

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What does heat of the battery internally have to do with anything other than the need/rate to replenish distilled water?


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goody90q45
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Email me (your Q45 email address is down). I've got some insulating material for your MAF that I'd like you to try.

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Jesda
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Q45tech wrote:What does heat of the battery internally have to do with anything other than the need/rate to replenish distilled water?
"Heat, not cold, shortens battery life, says the Car Care Council. The average life of a battery is three and a half years, and even shorter in warmer climates.

Excessive heat and overcharging are the two main reasons for shortened battery life. Heat causes battery fluid to evaporate, which damages the internal structure of the battery. A malfunctioning component in the charging system, usually the voltage regulator, allows too high a charging rate. That's slow death for a battery."

Seems like the best way to prevent being stranded is to keep the battery cool in the summer.http://about.newsusa.com/artic...=3980

qship96
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we know the factory battery dies at about 3.5 years- just replace with OEM every 36.00000 months and be done with it,or experiment with possibly better battery{ Optima?} and gamble how long it will last? possibly stranding you in your quest to test its longevity. factory every 36 seems a no brainer...........

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Since the prorated life/cost of a battery is $30 per year at most.

Really a tremendous waste of personal intellect, money, time, sweat. INET BITS Hard Drive Storage to try redesigning this wheel.

Reminds me of people who try to stretch Hard Drive life beyond 3 years. Just Ghost them and replace. Or those that don't change oil every 90 days.

CAR CARE COUNCIL: "The Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association (AAIA) is spearheading the campaign on behalf of the automotive aftermarket. The Car Care Council serves as the brand and information source for the campaign. "

Not sure why one would consider them a reliable source........follow the money trail who is paying them for what.

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Jesda
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Whoa whoa whoa! Who was advocating extra-long battery life?

The ultimate waste of personal intellect, time, and money is owning an old G50. In any practical sense, Dennis, you're nuts.

But we like it.

Q45tech
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No I was commenting about INDUSTRY FINANCED CAR COUNCILS and their agenda.

I always change my battery before they fail while still in warranty, the most cost effective way...........and the one least likely to leave you needing a jump.

Chemistry will tell you how to make a battery fail [bad cell] any time you want to.

Stationary lead batteries easily last 15-20 years with monthly testing and maintenace..............batteries subject to vibration have a finite life that temperature control cannot prolong unless you can figure a way so that they don't exceed 68F..................insulation won't help in summer when the ambient exceeds that............guess you could use AC to cool the battery and gain a year maybe............cost effective ?

All part of the $3,000 annual cost to own...............battery 1%.

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Jesda
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MB and BMW insulate their batteries just for entertainment purposes?

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sijoko
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Buy an Optima Red Top from Pep Boys and install it in the trunk like I did. No more worries about engine heat destroying batteries. Plus you get a nice long warranty on the Optima Red Tops.


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Jesda
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I've been reading lately of Optima's sale from Swedish owners to Johnson Controls, which resulted in a huge price hike and what some suspect is degraded quality control. Some folks at miata.net (their batteries are vented and rear-mounted as well) have endured explosions.

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Interesting.

I noticed the red tops at the discount warehouses have increased to $120, but I thought is was oil prices causing the increase.

I wonder if thelse Miata boys are shorting out their batteries? Funny only one car brand of user has problems.

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Skibane
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Jesda wrote:I've been reading lately of Optima's sale from Swedish owners to Johnson Controls, which resulted in a huge price hike and what some suspect is degraded quality control. Some folks at miata.net (their batteries are vented and rear-mounted as well) have endured explosions.
I have read similar comments over on the 4X4Wire forums. Supposedly, the similar Exide Orbital batteries are holding up better right now.

Personally, I'm considering installing a deep-cycle battery when mine dies. They tend to have thicker (albeit fewer) plates, and tolerate a lot of abuse. I've had one (a Delco Voyager) in my Japanese pickup for about 8 years now, and it's been bulletproof.


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