build ideas

[dude2111]

I bought my first rps13 last January. It didn't run at first the guy i bought it from left an IG ground loose lol, but the car came with stage2 pdm cams, full exhsaust, intake CAI, JWT ECU,MSD CDI, 370cc injectors (still side feed), ported head, and forged pistons CR 11.5:1 (did a CR test and engine is maintaining 11.5-11.9). I want more power, but because of CR turbo isn't an option.
Any ideas? I thought about supercharging but i think ill need to change cams and install ARP studs and run a really low boost ( like 6lbs)

[Hijacker]

If you're worried about turbo-ing, you should be worried about super charging too. Turbos are much more efficient at boost regulation than a supercharger, since it can hit a peak and keep it at peak through your RPM range. However, with that high of CR, I wouldn't recommend either, even on a low peak of 6 lbs of boost.

However, if you want to try and keep it all motor, try boring and stroking the motor instead. You'll get much better response out of it than its current state, and you can continue running the high comp pistons as well.

[dude2111]

THNX for the input, i was considering supercharging only because superchargers have way low boost temps when compared with turbos (at least centrifugal superchargers do) and can hit peak boost so quickly. As far as a BC Stroker kit goes, will it be able to hold rpm as well with a radical rod to stroke ratio? aAlso its not very cost effective. I realize power and torque aren't cheap and I don't feel like doing an another ls swap (just to take that option out of the situation maybe a vk56vel)

[OutToWinPAHC]

Your mind is racing. if this is a track only car high compression meth injection boost is awesome, but anything else is silly. Bottom line, how much do you want to spend?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

However, if you want to try and keep it all motor, try boring and stroking the motor instead. You'll get much better response out of it than its current state, and you can continue running the high comp pistons as well.

I'm guessing this is still the KA. Boring it would require new pistons... and the stroke is already sky high!

I agree with Kevin. You're either going to have to run some seriously high octane to add any sort of boost at all, or just be happy with what you've got.

[liquid_cool]

I run a KA24DE-T set up with a dual tune..91-93 pump gas for every day driving and E85 for the track..id run E85 all day long if i dint have a 10 gal fuel cell and have to travell 35 miles just to get it...here is the skinny bro...if you go KA-T you have a cheep reliable DD and or a cheep reliable Track ride..the thing with racing is you have to be able to afford to do so!..and any form of racing can get costly fast...if your new to racing start where you will get the best bang for your buck...first i would concentrate on the suspention set up..camber , caster, ruckus..reinforced front LCA's..coilovers..and great tires!...then i would do a safty mod and add a roll cage..this does 2 things..keeps you alive if god forbid something were to go drasticlay wrong..and strengthens the car adding cornering ability..specially if you gusset the cage to the chassis...a good bucket seat and at least a 4 way harness thats 2 inches wide or better..ohh and a properly rated helmet as per your field of racing...next ..you need to do a little planning..if you plan on going over 350hp in a ka..you might want to get a whitebunny clutch kit now..as that seems to be the best clutch set up for the price..if your staying under 350hp..then i would go with a fidenza and a light driveline (1 piece)..ither way do the drive line as the carrior bearing is a week point..thats the best advice i could give..now its up to you to grab paper and write down your goals for the car and make a battle plan....a friend of mine (Col. Allen Abhams) one said to me..."Plan the attack, and attack your plan!"..keep us posted on what ever way you decide to go.

[dude2111]

Definitely awesome info. As far as chaise mods go i currently have 16x8.25 +-0 offset xxr527's, *ISIS Arm Package, TEIN tie rods outer and iner,and polly bushings. Coil overs and mounts are next, and maybe solid subframe bushings.Then an LSD 1.5way. Funding isnt a huge issue I just want to take my time and not waste any resources. As far as the engine goes I might just pop in a set of crower 3/4 race N/A cams with crower springs for now, then plan my next powerplant. I want to be able to drive the car to work or the store and slide every corner there and back. Just some back ground info my first car was a '68 mustang with a 275 DEH cam, all motor, AT stock stall, no A/C ,and mustang II coil over conversion (I did all the work on that car in a carport) and i live in texas. As long as its reliable and a handful i dont really care.

[mechanicalmoron]

My name is an accurate description of me, I've only even seen inside these motors in pictures. BUT:

Common sense says that you're stuck n/a. Either rebuild it, and ditch those pistons and build it around what you want (instead of trying to twist what you want around it) OR take n/a and run with it. Lightweight drivetrain stuff, header, environment-hating high-flow cat or test pipe, and consider ITBs and such. It should still be a plenty fun car. But maybe I have generally low expectations, my idea of fun is a cai

I think nitrous is okay with high CR's? I could have that totally backwards, though.

[liquid_cool]

My name is an accurate description of me, I've only even seen inside these motors in pictures. BUT:

Common sense says that you're stuck n/a. Either rebuild it, and ditch those pistons and build it around what you want (instead of trying to twist what you want around it) OR take n/a and run with it. Lightweight drivetrain stuff, header, environment-hating high-flow cat or test pipe, and consider ITBs and such. It should still be a plenty fun car. But maybe I have generally low expectations, my idea of fun is a cai

I think nitrous is okay with high CR's? I could have that totally backwards, though.

My old build was a 14 to 1 cr and i sprayed a 100 shot from time to time..lightend flywheel and drive line made her really responcive..it was alot of fun..to keep a high CR ka24de thou..you need pistons and rods..i know from experience..those shotpingd rods dont hold up long to stress..and i would add a big nasty cam too!..jwt's 280 cams..or BC 272's would work..man..makes me wana build another NA-ka now.

[dude2111]

I've herd to run the jwt s2 cams you need to do machine work to the head such as clearacing for the lobe height and you need to run vq35hr springs and valve buckets i considered it but i wasnt able to get accurate and comlete info as to what preporations need to be made to run a super aggressive grind. Any more info would be appreciated?

[liquid_cool]

I've herd to run the jwt s2 cams you need to do machine work to the head such as clearacing for the lobe height and you need to run vq35hr springs and valve buckets i considered it but i wasnt able to get accurate and comlete info as to what preporations need to be made to run a super aggressive grind. Any more info would be appreciated?

i run the BC 272's now in my ka-t setup..i clearenced them myself with a dremel tool..its really easy to do your self...all you have to do is lay the cams in and mark where you need to trim...you might need a small flat file allso to keep things uniform for the lobes...you will laugh at how easy it really is once you get started on it..i allso run the BC duel springs..they work perfectly for the set up..only difference you will notice is the noise you will hear from the valves..YOU DONOT need to get the jwt adjustable cams...just shim corectly and everything will be flawless! you can get tones of extra shims from a junk yard out of the fwd maximas..there KA's allso.

[dude2111]

Not trying to change the subject but has any one ever done a supertech bucket over shim conversion? If so how well dose it work? Is it worth the cost?

[liquid_cool]

Not trying to change the subject but has any one ever done a supertech bucket over shim conversion? If so how well dose it work? Is it worth the cost?

i have helped a buddy who has done this convertion,is it easy to shim?..not really..is it worth it, depends..dont get me wrong..i love the supertech brand merchandise..its afordable and high quality...as a matter of fact...ive run supertech pistons in the last 12 cars i have modifyed...but this is not a mod i would do as it is easyer to shim from the top than it is from the bottom of the bucket..it's really a preference thing i guess..oem and the supertech systems work the same way.

[dude2111]

i have helped a buddy who has done this convertion,is it easy to shim?..not really..is it worth it, depends..dont get me wrong.

What kind of RPM and or seat pressure can stock style shims with stand? Also is there a way to get as shim kit(a generalized variety of shims as I'm very lazy and want most of my parts delivered lol) or Nissan SST shim tool( I don't know the SST# sorry). If stock shim over bucket is easier to shim and can stand up to the task I'll probably just stick with stock.

I recently kinda f*** up my JWT ECU and my Nismotronic RT ECU will be arriving soon (like 1/17/13 soon).So if any one is from the Texarkana,TX, Shreveport,LA, Tyler,TX, south west AR area and you know of a decent chassis dyno to rent I would be much obliged if you could inform me of it. (I'm already aware of B&M Race Cars and Tyler Fuel Injection)
THNX

[liquid_cool]

i have actually got the KA24DE na to rev to 10k with no load and fully balanced internals..thats with 272 cams and duel springs..the shims never failed...its rare for someone to actually use that type of setup..most stick to oem as shims are dirt cheep "Junk Yard Dive"

[dude2111]

thnx for the info; much appreciated.

But if any one has any info on a dyno near east texas that would be awesome too.

[dude2111]

Just got the Nismotronic RT ECU in to day (work was slow) and I think I found a dyno in Texarkana (not sure if its AR or TX). No more code 12 and or 21.