Searched for help on this issue but found little. The steering rack bushing on the driver's side of my 99 Pathfinder has deteriorated and broken to the point that I have much vibration at about 60-70 mph. Didn't know at first what the vibration problem was but while changing the oil I found a chunk of said bushing on one of the cross beams. Fortunately I could make out the part # 54444-0w000; that's how I was able to look it up on the internet and subsequently use the service manual to visibly pinpoint its location it on the steering rack. It appears to be fixable by a DIYer but I sure would appreciate some input by anyone who has actually replaced one of these. Thanks.

Didn't get a reply but took the plunge anyway. It was a lot easier than I had expected ... but a bit tricky. Here are some tips. If you have the service manual, go to pg ST-77 for a fairly good diagram. Referring here to a '99 Pathfinder.

1) Removing the four 22mm bolts (2 each, passenger & driver's side) securing the mounting brackets required different combinations of ratchet extensions and sockets (long & reg. sized); be sure you have a good variety before starting. There are several tubes that interfere with the process so you need to be careful that your socket doesn't slip off the bolt and break one of those. Could not get my 1/2" ratchet maneuvered into place to remove the bolts so had to use a 3/8 and a short pipe extension for leverage.

2)The bushings (also called grommets and/or insulators) have a slit in them so you can work them into place without having to remove the entire steering rack. The driver side is kinda teardrop shaped so it must be lined up correctly; ie, there is a lobe on the rack that corresponds to the shape of this bushing. Passenger is round so it can probably be installed in any position but I just put it on by lining up the slit just like the old one I removed. Using a long screwdriver to pry the rack up slightly is a must in order to get each bushing into place (and to get the old ones out).

3) Don't remove the mounting brackets completely; just slide them to the side and leave them sort of dangling on the rack. That way you can easily slide them back into place after you install the new bushings.

4) Because of the lack of room, couldn't get my 1/2 torque wrench into place to tighten the clamp bolts to spec. So I just used my 3/8 ratchet & sockets and snugged them real good with the pipe extension.

Bushings were only about $30 at the dealer. Truck steering feels like new.

Sorry for the lack of replies - I had no idea what was involved with this service. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!

Hi.. since this is only post for this issue i wanted to.bump thread. I replaced both inner and outer tie rods on both sides and realized during the process i have the same worn grommets or bushings issue. Steering is improved but still wanders. Also lots of fluid seems to be everywhere. Did you jack up the truck to replace bushings or can you use ramps? I had to use jack stands for the inner and outer repair, If i have to replace the whole rack unit seems i will have to tear down the whole front end again :-( or not?

Any advice or pointers before getting started is appreciated. Doesnt look like the rebuilt rack comes with bushings but do come with inner tie rods which i just purchashed and installed. I can replace the worn bushings and fix the play still in the steering but if the unit is leaking its a different game. Funny thing is that other than 'wandering' and play.. no.other noises or issues with steering. Maybe the rack is still viable. Car has over 200k miles. Thanks in advanced. -DD
*** btw nice write up..forgot to mention!

Anyone have more information on this? I'm having a wandering steering issue, and vibration as noted by the OP. Since I know next to nothign about suspension, I'm wondering if either of these issues could be the cause.

I found this post:

search.php?keywords=steering+rack+bushing&fid%5B0%5D=37

Is it worth doing this just to see if that helps? I have a large amount of slack in the wheel at TDC. I'd say at least 15deg on each side. Would replacing the bushings help/fix this?

For some reason that link didn't work, not sure what was done in that post.

Probably have someone turn the steering wheel a little left and then a little right while you lie under the front of the truck and see what movement the steering rack makes. Could very well be your problem.

Silverhorn, a wandering steering is usually the cause of bad tie rod ends. Tie rod ends come in two parts: inner and outer. You may be able to replace the outer, but the inner are a real PITA, and best left to a shop.

If you can jack up the car and place the front end on jack stands, grasp your tire with your hands at the "3 o clock" and "9 o clock" position, and move it left and right, as if you were steering left and right. Do this for both wheels.

If you notice looseness, the tie rods are likely bad. Examine them visually. Try to find or look up tie rods that are in good shape, and compare them with yours.

If the wheels are tight, then you may have looseness in your steering rack, which is a fix definitely best left to a shop.

Thanks much for the reply rgk and 4xq. I did jack up the car and do like you describe. I'd say the tire wiggled no more than an inch. How much is "looseness"?

I'd say my number one theory is that I'm missing a tooth in my rack and pinon. Is there a way to diagnose that?

And I'm in this on my own (no shop). So even if this takes a few weeks/months I'm gonna try it. Only way I can afford parts I want for my car is to do my own repairs.

Can I not edit my posts on this board? Odd... but he was the link from above that didn't work:

post6531196.html?hilit=steering%20rack% ... g#p6530658

Which just links here.... I was just confused....... lol

Wow, an inch movement at 3 to 9 oclock is a lot - it is supposed to be zero. You probably have several things that need fixing.

As far as the steering rack, if the steering wheel turns lock to lock smoothly, with no roughness or hangups felt in the steering wheel, and the steering rack is not leaking fluid, the steering rack is almost certainly ok inside. Steering racks are a pretty high tolerance and tough part, and with a broken gear tooth rumbling around inside the rack you would certainly feel roughness or some problem in your steering wheel.

It is much more likely you have worn front end parts, so the appropriate diagnostic path is to check those one by one and fix them.

If you put the car back up on the stands, kick each tire hard at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock a couple of times. This backs off the brake calipers. Then check and see if you can wiggle the wheel back and forth in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions (no wiggle is the correct amount). If you can, you will probably need to adjust (tighten) your wheel bearings. You probably need to repack them with fresh grease if that has never been done. Time to watch some Youtube videos if you need to learn how to do that. 4 wheel drives are a little different, so try to find a Pathfinder or qx4 video.

The steering rack bushings are the easiest for you to tackle first (and not that expensive), so for your 3 to 9 wobble, I would start there. You probably have a tie rod problem, but that is more difficult to fix than your bushings.

If wheel bearings are tight, and your bushings have been fixed, then you can move on to the tie rods.

At least that is the way I would tackle it!

No need for bearing videos; we have a writeup on bearing replacement & repacking here!

Thanks Atraudes! I think you must have those threads bookmarked. Guess I should have done that!

Well, I'm kind of partial to that one in particular

I do have a lot of the maintenance howtos linked from here, though.

One more thing to check, jack the vehicle up so the front wheel is off the ground, have someone wiggle the wheel while you keep an eye on the ball joint. I had repacked my wheel bearings and still had lots of play and discovered that the ball joints were totally worn out.

Thanks guys, I'll try all that. I had a friend over today, and he said a lot of what you said. Thanks for the great info. I'll get on that stuff this weekend.

Let us know how it goes.

Ended up ordering a new suspension linkage kit for the back, and new linkage kit for the front. Will be a couple more weekends before I have a status of my front end. But the more I read and think about it, all the linkages up front musta been the problem. Can't wait to get him back down on the floor for the new test drive. I'm doing a complete suspension overhaul so I'll get a build thread up someday.

Ok, need more help apparently. I put 2" lift kit in, found a really really wobbly outer tie rod end, replaced that, got an alignment, and the void in my steering is gone, but the wheel still wobbles maybe a 1/4 - 1/2 inch, and when you go to the lock on the right, the steering wheel sits to the right say one o clock, and when you lock left, the steering wheel dones't return back to 12 o clock, it stays closer to 11. What else could it be? I have inner tie rod ends sitting there, but I haven't been able to replace those yet. A friend says that a power steering flush could help, what do you guys think? Here is a pic (or two) to help motivate ya'll to help me getting this beast up to 100% again

Good looking Q you've got there, Silverhorn. I like the hood vents...was thinking about those myself. Sorry about how that other thread escalated. Hope you don't mind me chiming in here; just trying to help.

The others have put in some good suggestions. Here are a few other ideas/questions off the top of my head:

—Make sure the brackets on the steering rack are torqued down (116-137 ft-lbs)
—Compare the new inner tie rods to the current and check for any bends.
—Disconnect the TRE from the knuckle to see if you can isolate the play to the suspension, drivetrain (wheel hub), or steering.
—I usually take a rubber mallet and give some pieces a few bumps to listen for noises and looseness.
—The 2" lift will amplify any steering issues because of the new angle that the TREs are at, especially with a bent TRE.
—Though not related to the play you're experience, may also want to check the condition of the rag joint on the steering link. If it looks a little warped or ragged, it may need adjustment or replacement.
—I would expect that with that sort of play at the wheel, it should be observable what parts are moving or not moving. If possible, it helps to have a hand on each piece to feel for movement.
—I would also try the wheel wobble on a wheel while the opposite tire is on the ground. This should isolate play to one side of the vehicle. If it can't be isolated, the steering rack must be loose.
—Any pops or clunks when play is observed?
—Does the play persist with the wheel off? Anything that might prevent the wheel from seating —properly/evenly on the hub, like spacers? Looks like you have stock hubs and wheels, so guessing nothing abnormal there.
—Wouldn't hurt to torque down the ball joints (don't forget the nuts that hold it to the control arm), steering links/joints, etc.
—If you have any concerns about the straightness of the steering wheel, you can put it in 4wd at the end of your driveway and let it creep up slowly in a straight line. With hands off the wheel, it should straighten out quickly. I usually do this for an impromptu check for toe-in, but if the steering wheel is crooked (and wasn't crooked before), then something has shifted (steering rack or bent TRE). No issues from the alignment shop, though, right?

Just some nuggets of info, hope something helps.

Hey thanks for the quick reply. I do have wheel spacers (recommended by 4x4 parts with the lift) but I had these issues before, so I doubt this is related to the lift. I was hoping to upgrade the suspension and fix the steering issues while i was in there. I'll try your list and see what comes up and post back.

Yeah, I don't think it's the lift either, to be honest. And I think the steering rack is tight...you'd have some general slop if it wasn't, I'd think. (But of course, simple to check.)

If I had to pick any place to start in that list, I'd try the one wheel up, one down test, grab the tie rod with one hand, and move the wheel left/right with the other hand. If they move together, then the inner tie rod socket is likely worn. Repeat on other side for safe measure, but replace both while in there of course (since you already have them).

I think it's something you can tackle at home if you did all the other work. No different from any other Nissan car, except you've got more room to work in...plenty of videos out there. You can rent the removal tool from your local parts store for free usually (buy and return).

Ok. So updates. Just got back from being in D.C. Put the truck up. First i did one wheel up one down like Hawairish suggested. Couldn't get the wheel to budge more than I tiny bit. Talking like a 1/4 inch, and I think I heard the other tire squeaking too. Outer tie rods and tire move together, but this is expected since I already changed those. Put the whole front end up next and both tires moved together as best as I could tell with no looseness. Then I locked the steering wheel and did the same thing. They moved an inch or so back and forth, and I heard a clicking sound. Turns out that was the steering wheel going from lock to lock. SO end results is that it seems that everything is moving together just like it should, and I'm back to being stuck. New rack and pinion arrives tomorrow, but at this point... will it even help. By that point i'll have 100% new steering and suspension in the front.... SMH.

Ok, great news.... I think. While I was taking apart the front end to get the steering rack out, I noticed its loose. I had someone get in the car and turn the wheel back and forth, it took me a long time to see it, but the whole rack is moving in its brackets. The key was that the only clean part of the rack were strips on each side of the mounts (see attached). How do I fix this? New bushings? TIghter on the 22mm bolts?

Looks like the drivers side front steering rack bushing is only half present. The entire front of the bushing is completely missing. Passenger side is in good shape. See pictures.





Top picture drivers side. If you look carefully, you can see the bushing above and below the rack. Bottom picture, passenger side, good condition.

Do you think replacing the bushings will solve my problem? They look like this. Drivers side on the right :/ Wow....

Wow, exactly what the first post in this thread was about. It worked for 9899pathfinder: "Truck steering feels like new."

I can't say I honestly believed that a bushing could cause my fairly large steering issues. But with the worn TRE and the completely deteriorated drivers side bushing I'm hoping that's all of the problem. Steering rack bushings come in today, so I'll post back tonight to report. This beast has to be ready by Friday morning, so its a race against the clock.

Looks like the bushings fixed my issues as well. I won't know for sure until I get the alignment this afternoon, but I remain hopeful. Test drive was a success

rgk wrote:Wow, exactly what the first post in this thread was about. It worked for 9899pathfinder: "Truck steering feels like new."

LOL...my impression was that the rack bushings were already replaced but didn't solved the problem, hence all the other suggestions. But that's what the one-wheel up/down test was supposed to exploit: "This should isolate play to one side of the vehicle. If it can't be isolated, the steering rack must be loose."

But yes, that's clearly the issue, and glad you discovered it. Hopefully that's everything for the front end for you!

Literally, it was!