Broken Part in Oil Pan & Gauges Install

[jcquick]

I installed a Greddy Oil Pan and when I looked inside the stock oil pan, I found this metal piece. Its approx. 3/4in. in length and 1/4in. in height. I'm pretty sure its a broken piece off the cylinder head. When I put my ear to the engine during idle, Its a little noisy on the exhaust side of the cylinder head. But, I've always had this noise ever since I bought the car. No problems for 3 years, even when driven hard. Let me know what do you guys think this broken part is? Will I have any problems in the future?

Since I was installing the Oil Pan and I installed an Oil Cooler a year ago, I wanted to monitor the Oil Pressure and Oil Temps. I've seen other guys install gauges in place of the vents, but I didn't want to lose the vents since I'm sweating my a** off during the summer. And, nobody makes a gauge pod for the glove compartment like EVO's or STI's. So, I decided to make a gauge pod out of fiberglass. It came out OK, but I need to learn how to work with Bondo a little better. I might lay some material (i.e. vinyl, carbon fiber, etc) down later to cover up the imperfections. I decided to use Autometer Mech. Carbon Fiber Gauges. The reason why Mechanical, they are way more responsive and accurate. I used steel braided line high strenght thread sealant so I wont get any leaks in the future. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks, JCDrivers Point of ViewPassenger Point of View

[400whps13coupe]

lifter shim bro you need to fix that oneday it will let loose all hells fury on your heads internals.

[Kalypso]

he's right, that needs to be replaced.



you can rebuild using this

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=238409

[jcquick]

Thanks for the info. I was perfectly fine, but you guys got me all freaked out. Now, all I can think about is how to fix this myself or take it to a mechanic. After reviewing the tech article, (I've never worked on a cylinder head, so I'm always afraid to mess things up) would I have to buy and install a new lifter, shim, and rocker arm to prevent any issues? Could I do this work myself? What is my best route and most cost effective route? Please help. Thanks, JC

[Kalypso]

yes you can do this work yourself... read that article again!!and take notes... then read it a third time. then find other how two's on head builds and take it step by step.. piece by piece.

(you'll need the tools mentioned to do it)

while you're at it... might Aswell upgrade your valves, retainers, springs ect.

and build a stronger head

[400whps13coupe]

Did not want the truth? cant handle the ugly truth dont ask lol its not to bad but if you take the head off the block might as well build the head but taken the head off is not a have to. zippy tie timing chain to sprockets then remove chain tensioner remove CAS but be careful . remove sprockets then cam capps keep in the exact order as you removed them . then take out the cams and there ya go rocker arms lifters just be sure to gauge your shims properly. and replace cam while u r at it great time to do it and will give good HP rewards.

Modified by 400whps13coupe at 5:42 PM 8/15/2009
Modified by 400whps13coupe at 9:01 PM 8/15/2009

[Kalypso]

replacing cams is a win move...

those gauges are done in poor taste...take them out and do something different.

[400whps13coupe]

hows your money got a lil to spare i do recomend u build the head BC has great prices on valve train kits add a set of ARP head studds and a good gasket and rocker arm stoppers if you havent all ready done those . i learned the hard way slung a rocker arm shattered my exh cam in 3 places but now im built top to bottom and am able to triple stock hp an tq #'s.