Come on you should know this. The amount of PSI differ in HP rating depending on the turbo size. I for sure know I ran really close to 300rwhp mark with my Precision GT32 on my SOHC. But then again I had a bad *** tune.turbonissan wrote:what are u running in your 240's
I ran SRs in all of mine, but I have been considering the KA-T, for my next one. Ive had 3 Sr cars, but I want to go for KA-t this time.turbonissan wrote:what are u running in your 240's
S13FX can you comment on the stock bottom end and turbo pressure combination, how will those two work together?S13FX wrote:
Come on you should know this. The amount of PSI differ in HP rating depending on the turbo size. I for sure know I ran really close to 300rwhp mark with my Precision GT32 on my SOHC. But then again I had a bad *** tune.
But Im guessing with that setup and the turbo you have, you were at maybe 250rwhp depending on your tune.
I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean?nzmoman wrote:S13FX can you comment on the stock bottom end and turbo pressure combination, how will those two work together?
I was asking if you knew any quick tips for understanding how the stock bottom end will react with that turbo. I am asking this with the understanding that a lot of KA guys say the t-2 flange is not the best choice, and you were the only one on here when I posted that and you definately know more than me about boosted KA's. How should the KA owner with a stock bottom go about chosing a good turbo for maximum HP?S13FX wrote:
I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean?
And as for my clutch I had a Spec3+ with the Spec Steel flywheel, but my car just recently got totaled by some jerk on the high way.
You need to read a compressor map. If you can't do that, then you ask or see what everyone else is running.nzmoman wrote:How should the KA owner with a stock bottom go about chosing a good turbo for maximum HP?
Sounds like a bad idea to me. If you can't make at least 350whp on a stock block, you will probably have issues on a built block.S0lid_Snake wrote:^it would appear that way. iirc the pistons fail first, but you may as well do pistons and conrods while the engine is torn down
How did you tune the car if you haven't had it on a dyno or used a wideband???turbonissan wrote:no never had them cleaned and never on a dyno or wideband how would stopped up injectors blow out rings?????
It is bad. During valve overlap, if pressure is too much higher on the exhaust side, then flow is going to want to go backwards through the engine.. That can cause all sorts of problems related to fuel burning before it even enters the combustion chamber.. Small turbos are just gay all around.Edub1 wrote:He said JWT tune. I'm begining to wonder if a good share of blown motors aren't due to those small stage I wheels. I noticed that my super 60 hit a wall around 5000 RPMs. It just felt like the motor couldn't breath and there was considerable boost creep.
It just seems like it's a bad idea to create that much backpressure and force the motor to overcome it. Even the best WG won't vent off pressure before it opens.
I don't know if I'm right but I have this vision in my mind of the stage III being able to maintain boost by maintaining lower pressure but higher exhaust gas velocity through the wheel rather than by builing backpressure.