Late last summer I purchased a 1990 Q when the engine in my 1991 Qa seized at 210,000.
The car is in good shape, from Texas, never in snow/salt. All original paint (Pearl) with a tan interior in excellent shape except for armrest. Guides done and all hoses under plenum replaced recently by tech owner.
To date I have rebuilt the a/c, as a previous owner (before tech) fell for the 134a conversion, which destroyed the 11 year old compressor. The higher temp of the 134a also raised the engine temp to a level that made me uneasy. Now with the original setup it produces 45-50 degree air.
Second problem area was the ABS pump . I have installed the unit from the 1991. I plan to do a fairly extensive brake job, replacing the master with the newer one from the 1991 and also installing the SS lines and drilled rotors, along with stock pads.
I used the 28/20 mm bars from the active car wiith poly bushings and tightened stock endlinks. This is a nice combination with newer black/blue Tokicos and stock springs.
Finally last week I had a local shop install the Level Ten PTS-3 and newer driveshaft from the 1991. Although the 1990 had a Nissan rebuild with 45,000 miles that worked perfectly, I missed the higher stall speed and quicker shifts of the modified trans. That driveshaft also had a wicked vibration.
Unfortunately my wife hit a stray piece of metal on the highways of our nation's capital and ripped a hole in one of the 255/50-16 Michelin Pilots, so we are running on almost new Yoko 420's in 225/60-15.
I am now removing some parts from the 1991 for use later, and if a member needs anything, including the rebuilt trans, contact me by email. I am posting an ad for some active parts for those who want to recharge at a savings.
Bringing New (Used )Q Back
This was the weekend for the brakes. From the old 91 I had four good drilled Barati rotors, which a local machine shop refinished for me. From Scottsdale I got F&R shim kits and rear pads. Also from the old 91 I brought Goodridge SS lines, and almost new front (stock ) pads, along with the master cylinder.
The job went well. I'm slow, but after 170,000 Q miles I have familiarity with the systems. The only hitch was the right front caliper appeared to have a small leak. Luckily I had the parts from a seal kit I got long ago when a pin froze, so I rebuilt it. I had not done this before, but all indications are that it worked OK.
I have a Motive Parts power bleeder, so as usual bleeding was a snap.
The result was (yet) another order of smoothness. I could feel a pulsing on braking and suspected the rear rotors were warped. Now not only is that gone when braking, but cruising is also smoother. We go very easy to break in the parts, so no report on braking power yet.
Now my question for members. I used Valvoline Synpower. For the last couple of years I had been using ATE, alternating between Type 200 and Super Blue when flushing. I was surprised at how thin the Valvoline appears when pouring, and I swear that it gives a softer pedal. Is this my imagination, or does the viscosity of the fluid have that much affect?
Again, I envy those who bought the cars new. The closer I get to new performance, and I know I'm nowhere near it, the more I wonder what it must have been like to drive this car in 1990. Twelve years have passed, and its still faster than most of the cars on the road. I think I'll keep it.
The job went well. I'm slow, but after 170,000 Q miles I have familiarity with the systems. The only hitch was the right front caliper appeared to have a small leak. Luckily I had the parts from a seal kit I got long ago when a pin froze, so I rebuilt it. I had not done this before, but all indications are that it worked OK.
I have a Motive Parts power bleeder, so as usual bleeding was a snap.
The result was (yet) another order of smoothness. I could feel a pulsing on braking and suspected the rear rotors were warped. Now not only is that gone when braking, but cruising is also smoother. We go very easy to break in the parts, so no report on braking power yet.
Now my question for members. I used Valvoline Synpower. For the last couple of years I had been using ATE, alternating between Type 200 and Super Blue when flushing. I was surprised at how thin the Valvoline appears when pouring, and I swear that it gives a softer pedal. Is this my imagination, or does the viscosity of the fluid have that much affect?
Again, I envy those who bought the cars new. The closer I get to new performance, and I know I'm nowhere near it, the more I wonder what it must have been like to drive this car in 1990. Twelve years have passed, and its still faster than most of the cars on the road. I think I'll keep it.
fxjackso wrote:
Now my question for members. I used Valvoline Synpower. For the last couple of years I had been using ATE, alternating between Type 200 and Super Blue when flushing. I was surprised at how thin the Valvoline appears when pouring, and I swear that it gives a softer pedal. Is this my imagination, or does the viscosity of the fluid have that much affect
It's either your imagination or you still have some air in there. Synpower is good stuff. It is as resistant to boiling as a lot of the high dollar racing fluids, but is cheap and readily available. I use it and have less problems on the racetrack with fluid boiling than friends that use racing fluids with supposedly higher boiling points.
-
texasoil
- Posts: 875
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2002 3:18 pm
- Car: '92 Infiniti Q45A
'94 Infiniti Q45A
'94 Mercedes-Benz SL600
soft brake pedal?
Wait a bit for the new pads to seat. The shims might also need a few high pressure applications to bed them in tight.
Also it's very easy to trap a few small air bubbles in the fluid in new lines when power bleeding. S-l-o-w-l-y adding fluid is best until filled.
There should not be any difference (practically speaking) in the pedal feel for any normal (ester based) brake fluid. The silicone stuff does have a higher compressibility and gives a spongier feel.
Also it's very easy to trap a few small air bubbles in the fluid in new lines when power bleeding. S-l-o-w-l-y adding fluid is best until filled.
There should not be any difference (practically speaking) in the pedal feel for any normal (ester based) brake fluid. The silicone stuff does have a higher compressibility and gives a spongier feel.