Breaking up while in boost

[KEMP]

Fair enough...

Next step would be running the diagnostics to see if the sensors are at least being picked up by the ecu (it won't tell you if they are faulty, just if the circuit is open or not), if you havent done so already...

You can also check the continuity on the power transistor (igniter) to rule it out..

I know you changed and gapped the plugs, what heat range did you use?

I hope you get it sorted...

if i have an obd1 code reader, can i plug it up to the ca? or no?

[Broadfield]

What gap are you running on your plugs? Try a smaller gap and see what happens. My SR did the same exact thing........ then I ran a smaller gap and have had no issues.

[KEMP]

What gap are you running on your plugs? Try a smaller gap and see what happens. My SR did the same exact thing........ then I ran a smaller gap and have had no issues.

.025" is pretty small already...

[KEMP]

the guy that swapped my motor, the owner of NSPerformance in south carolina, said it could be the TPS

any thoughts

[KEMP]

any ideas? unplugged tps and it didnt help...

any ideas?

does the ignitor chip have to be bolted/screwed to the body to ground it? mine is just laying there not bolted to anything

[meminto]

I am fairly certain your OBD code reader won't work, the connector is for an external specific checker box that allows you to perform the self diagnostic easier.. (first gen obd was about monitoring emissions standards, not really the diagnostic modes your after - subsequent generations made improvements but depending on manufacturer)

You need to obtain pages EF&EC 64 - 77 of the factory workshop manual, this will provide you the steps on performing the self diagnosis.. (you can find the manual through search and download, however it will most likely be for the euro ca18, which has some variations compared to the jdm model, but the diags are the same)

The ignitor has a ground pin, so it shouldn't need to be bolted down, however as it is still quite a delicate electrical circuit, it should be mounted correctly (this could be your problem?)..

I wouldn't suspect the tps to be at fault here, however the diagnostic mode three will be the first thing to perform to at least eliminate open circuits..

Considering the ignitor is just sitting there, I would be inclined to check the contiunuity (EF&EC 125)

Hope this helps...

[KEMP]

cod

I am fairly certain your OBD code reader won't work, the connector is for an external specific checker box that allows you to perform the self diagnostic easier.. (first gen obd was about monitoring emissions standards, not really the diagnostic modes your after - subsequent generations made improvements but depending on manufacturer)

You need to obtain pages EF&EC 64 - 77 of the factory workshop manual, this will provide you the steps on performing the self diagnosis.. (you can find the manual through search and download, however it will most likely be for the euro ca18, which has some variations compared to the jdm model, but the diags are the same)

The ignitor has a ground pin, so it shouldn't need to be bolted down, however as it is still quite a delicate electrical circuit, it should be mounted correctly (this could be your problem?)..

I wouldn't suspect the tps to be at fault here, however the diagnostic mode three will be the first thing to perform to at least eliminate open circuits..

Considering the ignitor is just sitting there, I would be inclined to check the contiunuity (EF&EC 125)

Hope this helps...

code 55 :scratchs head: .....

this is the only time i wish there were codes.

I am starting to belive its the ignitor..or maf...or nissan.. haha

[articzap]

I had a problem with the car breaking up. I had no codes and it ran fine for months. Then one day it started acting funny. I threw in new plugs and it solved it for a few weeks then it started back up again. I said **** it and let the car sit for a few months. A buddy came over who has an RB and he found my MAF wiring was loose. Double check your connections.

[5star]

code 55 is all clear, no problems.

[mbmbmb23]

......Double check your connections.

Especially your grounds.

[KEMP]

iv

Especially your grounds.

iv checked almost every ground that i know of.

i put an safc on it, to try to tune it a bit and lean/richin it up in diferent parts, it made it somewaht better, but still happens.

i think its the ignitor pack. ??

i hear that the sr20det ignitor(power transistor) will work, true or false?

and maybe something about the dropping resistor? would this case this i do not believe i have one...

ANY help would be amazing

[meminto]

If you have a JDM CA18DET, it needs the resistor pack for the injectors (needs to be low impedance)

Look for a silver box (about 15cm's long) connected to the harness..

If you do not have this, either your CA has some sort of aftermarket setup or this may be contributing to your issue...

[KEMP]

If you have a JDM CA18DET, it needs the resistor pack for the injectors (needs to be low impedance)

Look for a silver box (about 15cm's long) connected to the harness..

If you do not have this, either your CA has some sort of aftermarket setup or this may be contributing to your issue...

i found the resistor pack, on the passenger side frame rail well intact and plugged in.

[sjbsuperman1425]

have you tried an adjustable FPR yet?

what could have happened is that your stock FPR could have been working for awhile and then went out from the walbro just a few days ago, thus causing the symptoms you are experiencing.

if you have access to any type of a/f ratio gauge, it'd give you a ROUGH estimate of what your a/f ratio is. no its not exact but its better than nothing.

[sjbsuperman1425]

one more thing, take the IACV off and clean with with carb/throttle body cleaner.