Breaking up in the top end, but boost problem fixed, any ideas?

[KEMP]

boost problem is fixed, idk what i did, all i did, was

-install z32 maf with safc-ground out the knock sensor wire to the body until my sensor gets here-timed it to 15-16* (was at 7, WOW)-tghtened up a few compressor housing bolts, but it wasnt loose enough to leak.-tightened top mount downpipe.

now that i can get boost, like 13-16psi, im content, but it breaks up in the top end, between 4-5k rpm.

but in first gear if i get on it, it kicks and bucks like it doesnt want to go, and when it starts breaking up, it sounds like anti-lag launch control, and like it might be missing, im not sure.

plugs are good, and injectors are fine(444cc).

any ideas? FPR? im running stock FPR...

we tuned it a little richer and a little leaner to check, it seemed to run better richer.

need some help with this one, thanks guys, once this is fixed it will un like a champ now that i have boost, yahh thanks.

[articzap]

JDM timing is 10*.

[zero_gripS13]

spark plug gap... make it smaller.. what gap r u running currently

[zero_gripS13]

200sx fsm says 15btdc incase u have a euro motor set

[KEMP]

i believe these plugs were gapped to .028 and thats quite small, it seems too only be when the butterflys may/should open.

and 10*? i thought it was 15*

but would that cause it to do that? i was on 7* earlier tonight, and it wasdoing it very bad, then 15* helped.

im thinking of getting 7 heat range NGK plugs, and gapping to like .025 or so. but dont think thats the proble, any ideas?

[boost_boy]

i believe these plugs were gapped to .028 and thats quite small, it seems too only be when the butterflys may/should open.

and 10*? i thought it was 15*

but would that cause it to do that? i was on 7* earlier tonight, and it wasdoing it very bad, then 15* helped.

im thinking of getting 7 heat range NGK plugs, and gapping to like .025 or so. but dont think thats the proble, any ideas?

If you get the 7s they'll foul faster. Your plugs are not the issue, but tuning is. Your base timing should be at 15* BTDC not 10*, but some will argue and that's cool as well. If richening-up the mixture makes it run better, then you definitely are probably leaning-out under boost. Now that you've corrected the boost problem, consider your issues to be tuning related. Don't worry about butterfly valves because they are not hindering your car from any major performance gain. If you guys have no skills at tuning that SAFC, then you should take it to someone who can. And just because they can tune an safc, doesn't mean they know what's right for this particular motor.

Dee

[KEMP]

thanks, but how will the 7's foul faster?

and it honestly sounds like ANTI-LAG launch control when it does it. i would think running a decent amount of boost with fuel mods, you should go colder in the plug, atleast thats what i thought.

it definetly needs tuned i know this, but could the FPR be contributing to this issue?

i think i will gap them down to .020 and see if it helps.

[progman]

when you get colder plugs they aren't as hot and can't burn **** off of them selves as good.... get it?

sounds like anti-lag? like timing cut? you are probably mis firing like crazy then. My guess is from leaning out.

If your FPR is set wrong then of course it would contribute. less/more fuel pressure means the engine gets more or less fuel.

Don't ruin your engine. It seems like you are really trying,

[KEMP]

when you get colder plugs they aren't as hot and can't burn **** off of them selves as good.... get it?

sounds like anti-lag? like timing cut? you are probably mis firing like crazy then. My guess is from leaning out.

If your FPR is set wrong then of course it would contribute. less/more fuel pressure means the engine gets more or less fuel.

Don't ruin your engine. It seems like you are really trying,

,

well i get it, but ya i guess like timing cut, but its more of a mis. and it is DEFINETLY NOT lean, its on 444injectors, UN-TUNED, and like 10psi. also i am running a stock FPR, im geting a nismo very soon, but could that be the problem? what should the FPR be set at

[rico05]

well i get it, but ya i guess like timing cut, but its more of a mis. and it is DEFINETLY NOT lean, its on 444injectors, UN-TUNED, and like 10psi. also i am running a stock FPR, im geting a nismo very soon, but could that be the problem? what should the FPR be set at

WOW. You are running a setup untuned, with improperly setup fuel system and you are shocked that it is not running right? You do not have a primary sensor (knock) that the ECU needs to operate in the proper map hooked up, and you are shocked that it is not running right? Man, I really do not want to be an jerk, but I think the best idea would be to find a reputible performance shop and drop it off for a few days with a credit card.

And to set the FPR:zerothread?id=214558

[KEMP]

haha,wow, you dont know me or my experience. i know exactly what im doing, and i know theres stuff i need, most of its on its way.

but. the thing is, it did this a while back on a stock setup, and then went away, after a couple things i did, which i did again, and no luck.

BUT, un tuned yes, which means rich as piss, which is technically safe. EVERYTIME at 5k rpm it breaks up, but only under WOT, if i half throttle it to red line it does not break up, the knock sensor is not hooked up, but is grounded, which actually means it wont sense knock if there was any, and there is no knock sensor code now, this is until the sensor arrives.

brand new plugs as of tonight, gapped to .022 and coil packs inspected again, and all seems well.

i know that it should run like *** untuned, but my friend that has tuned many SAFC's went for an hour ride with me tonight, we starte tuning it, got the low end damn near perfect, but NO MATTER what we did, 5k always interupted. this is why i know it is not tuning related.

My car will never see a shop floor, sence i actually know my sh*t. this just has me puzzled. i have built a few cars from ground up in my own garage, one being a 455awhp 94 talon, which ran 11.92 at 115.

my FPR will be on soon but i am for certain this is not a tuning issue, it feels like a spark or timing cut. which is not able to be tuned out when the ecu is throwing no codes at all.

Any other ideas? now if i was saying its bogging or running super rich and wont idle or something to that nature, i would go straight to the tuning resolution.

another thing that started as well which was weird, is if i come to a stop quick the car will die, boost leak free, maf leak free, which makes no sense to me also on the SAFC it showed about 94% throttle when my gas was to the floor on high boost, and then 100% on lower boost while tuning. and yes the trottle cable is tight, with no play once the pedal is pressed to the floor. someone said maybe TPS, which im not sure about, but makes sense.

help me out here.

[rico05]

i know that it should run like *** untuned

My car will never see a shop floor, sence i actually know my sh*t.

Haha. I'm done. Good luck man! I hope you get it all figured out.

[KEMP]

Haha. I'm done. Good luck man! I hope you get it all figured out.

Trust me, if you heard/felt what it was doing you too would know it is not tuning related. its either ignitor chip, POSSIBLY FPR, but doubt it, or some sort of spark problem.

Do you have any ideas? its a malfunction not a tuning issue, hince, it did it before this setup was on.

[KEMP]

Trust me, if you heard/felt what it was doing you too would know it is not tuning related. its either ignitor chip, POSSIBLY FPR, but doubt it, or some sort of spark problem.

Do you have any ideas? its a malfunction not a tuning issue, hince, it did it before this setup was on.

and on another note, do you have any idea o nthe dying at quick stops, or why it shows only 94% throttle when the pedal is floored? TPS? which i hear can also make it run sh*tty? can you atleast give me a thought on that?

[float_6969]

Try tuning the boost down and see if it quits breaking up.

If so, it's an ignition strength problem. Remove, sand, and and clean ALL of your grounds. Add extra grounds if needed. Make sure the ignitor is properly mounted to the body. It needs a heat sink. Check for proper battery voltage at the ignitor. Use the FSM and check the ignitor out and make sure it test's out ok.

It's possible that the TPS is causing the dying out problem, but it won't cause the breaking up.

[KEMP]

Try tuning the boost down and see if it quits breaking up.

If so, it's an ignition strength problem. Remove, sand, and and clean ALL of your grounds. Add extra grounds if needed. Make sure the ignitor is properly mounted to the body. It needs a heat sink. Check for proper battery voltage at the ignitor. Use the FSM and check the ignitor out and make sure it test's out ok.

It's possible that the TPS is causing the dying out problem, but it won't cause the breaking up.

well when i tune the oost down to like 5psi, it doesnt break up in 2nd and third gear, but first still does.

what grounds are you talking of? and i have the ignitor bolted to the passengerside shock tower.

[LEE_08]

my car used to do a simmilar thing with the standard CA18DET computer! it was only when the boost was 15psi or higher! i was told by a mate who works at nissan that it was a boost cut to protect the engine from detonation! he said i could get a fuel cut defender from turbosmart which gives the ecu a false reading tricking it to think there is less boost than what is actually there! don't know if thats your problem or not but sounds very simmilar to what mine was doin! i rectified the problem by gettin a microtech engine managment

[KEMP]

no, that definetly not fuel cut for me, believe me, i know fuel cut, this is not hi, this you can keep the pedal down while it misses, but i dont because im smarter than to keep going, fuel cut feels like hitting a brick wall.

not fuel cut related at all.

any other ideas?

[KEMP]

Any new thoughts?

[Myetball]

What fuel pump are you using?

[KEMP]

What fuel pump are you using?

255 walbro.

[float_6969]

Have you used a timing light and checked the ignition timing? You HAVE to use the procedure listed out in the FSM. If you don't, you won't get a good reading. Also, are you 100% sure the cam timing is spot on?

[KEMP]

Have you used a timing light and checked the ignition timing? You HAVE to use the procedure listed out in the FSM. If you don't, you won't get a good reading. Also, are you 100% sure the cam timing is spot on?

yes i know how to time the car, its right on 15* its a spark issue, not a timing.

its done this before when it was stock, but fixed its self :

Now it has come back

cam timing is right, its breaking up in first and second gear, once im in 3rd or 4th, it pulls fine with a few small misses to red line.

ecu was reset, plugs triple gap checked, its getting PLENTY of fuel.

i am stumped at this point... :

[float_6969]

Did you actually test out the ignitor as per the directions in the FSM?

[KEMP]

Did you actually test out the ignitor as per the directions in the FSM?

i couldn't find it in the fsm.

[KEMP]

just found it, there were no codes on the diagnostic test, there was a knock sensor code due to no knock sensor, so i wired up the sensor, then took it for a drive, problem still present, with NO code of knock sensor as of now.

there is code 55, which means all is fine, could it still be the ignitor?

[float_6969]

Yes

[float_6969]

EF & EC - 125

[KEMP]

EF & EC - 125

If it is throwing NO codes and plugs and gap are at .045 inch which once i brought the gap wider it broke up less. How could it be the ignitor if its only when boost really starts to pull. In first gear i cant get on it at all or it breaks up instantly, second gear is a little better, 3rd pulls almost all the way to red line.

This is what has me very confused. It sounds like it misses, or cuts timing or something, but while in real-time diagnostic mode 5, it shows no code or blinking of any kind at all, even if i stay in it when it breaks up.

What are the signs of a bad ignitor?, and If it is not the ignitor, what else could it be? and i looked on how to test it, which is basically just ohm meter to one side of the ignitor and one probe to the other side of the ignitor with it unplugged and no power going to the ignitor, is this corrrect?

[KEMP]

So I put in a new ignitor. And the problem persisted I do not know what to do. Please guys help me out and think of what the problem could be