Breaking in a new Motor-

[FlipCoupe]

So I just finished rebuilding my twin cam and just wanted to get some input on the break in process-

Tomorrow I plan on starting it on jackstands, letting it run for about 20 mins to bleed the coolant system.

Shut it down and let it cool back off

Then this is the part im a bit hazy on, i know im going the route of breaking it in hard but anybody have any suggestions? My plan right now is to go on the highway which is about 3 blocks away, get into 4th gear and floor it to near redline, then let off, then repeat 5-6 times. Im going to have someone follow me to let me know when smoke stops coming out of my exhaust.

[asoomal]

For the first 20 minutes, do not let it idle. Rev it gently from 1500-3500. Even when bleeding coolant.

Then do an oil change, change the filter and pour in oil with high zinc content. Do not run synthetic yet.
Do lots of mid range pulls and engine braking, 3rd gear should do fine. Do not get close to the limiter, drive it rather aggressively but don't beat it.

After 50-100 miles, do another oil change, and repeat, this time taking it a little bit higher. Remember to change the oil filter too.

Do another oil change at around the 500 mile range, and other one at 1500 mile range, check the oil and see if there's any sign of wear.

After that, it should be safe to use synthetic oil.

[FlipCoupe]

For the first 20 minutes, do not let it idle. Rev it gently from 1500-3500. Even when bleeding coolant.

Then do an oil change, change the filter and pour in oil with high zinc content. Do not run synthetic yet.
Do lots of mid range pulls and engine braking, 3rd gear should do fine. Do not get close to the limiter, drive it rather aggressively but don't beat it.

After 50-100 miles, do another oil change, and repeat, this time taking it a little bit higher. Remember to change the oil filter too.

Do another oil change at around the 500 mile range, and other one at 1500 mile range, check the oil and see if there's any sign of wear.

After that, it should be safe to use synthetic oil.

Thanks, i've read so many different ways to break it in my head is spinning lol. New build and you only get to break in the rings once so I want to do it right.

[asoomal]

Are you running aftermarket pistons with their rings?

If so, you could also ask the manufacturer of the rings and ask them how to break them in. Different kind of rings require different procedures.

[FlipCoupe]

Are you running aftermarket pistons with their rings?

If so, you could also ask the manufacturer of the rings and ask them how to break them in. Different kind of rings require different procedures.

OEM pistons with NPR rings, which are pretty much OEM rings from what ive read

[asoomal]

Alright, then just perform the standard method of breaking the engine in.

The two most important thing are to not to let it idle or rest at the same RPM and to change the oil frequently.
Also, run some break in oil and you should be set.

[spank044]

Run it hard with minimal idle and heavy vacuum. The combustion pressure is what forces the rings to seal/scrape the cylinder walls. Think or it this way, the more pressure it has, the quicker it will break in. You are essentially filing down the outsides of the rings to create the best seal on the cylinder walls. I have broke in numerous engines at home and as a professional mechanic, I have not had a motor fail nor do I expect to have one fail. I build high compression and high boost engines without problems. My KA made 416whp at 28 psi with 3 days of break in driving. The compression was around 195 on a stock stroke and compression ratio. That engine ran great for 3 years until I sold it to fund my new venture. I originally learned that style/method of break in from a motorcycle engine builder, his newest toy is a 392whp Hayabusa and he used the same method of break in and it has been running for 2 years without a hiccup. Also you don't need to change the oil that often. If you buy a good filter, a 5w30 break in oil like Royal Purple's, and use my method for about 300 miles. Then change filter and go 10w30 synthetic and enjoy.

Also the bleeder on top of the water pump is how you get the air out of the system. Just loosen the bleeder and once a steady stream of coolant/water comes out your good.

[lexcrob]

Yup beat it no idle change oil BUNCH. I just used cheapest oil i could find for break in...... still running 15k on it now buddy bought it from me. It was a b16a2 civic si motor tho..... npr rings tho!

[idahotuner]

just idling shouldn't do anything because there is not a load on it, now you dont want to drive down the road at a constant speed, vary load, gear, and rpms . most ring need to be set and they need pressure to seat them. so loading the engine up , it might seem like it is lugging and low power until the rings seat.

[liquid_cool]

if you rebuilt you motor correctly..you should have 45 degree cross hatch patterns on your cylinderwalls..those patterns promote ring break in...if you donot have those patterns , then you have failed all ready at a proper break in...without the pattern..most rings will create grooves like a piston rock mark "only way i can describe it" and fail to promote sealing of the combustion chamber to its maximum capability's...

if the patterns are present then i suggest:
noraml break in, drive in every day traffic. after the first 100 miles dump ALL fluids and filters. repeat cycle and dump all fluids and filters at 500 miles...and 1 more time at 2k miles should be fine...one of the post above sugest to use a high zinc oil..he's correct!...after your break in cycle is compleate..feel free to use synthetic oils..as long as you changes all your seals when you rebuilt the motor..if not..stick with regular motor oil or change the seals..as synthetic oils tend to find the weakest link in a seal and leak...good luck

[lexcrob]

as for cross hatch pattern most are 45 i guess some ive seen are more like 45 and a 60....

some rebuild books and crap recommend trying to replicate whats at the bottom of the cylinders (factory angle)

Really i guess it comes down to the rings. I guess the above method would be ideal for oem rings. If using aftermarket id say try contact them just to verify what they recommend. Honestly its not a big thing anyways give it a couple up and downs with a honer lubed up with wd40. The only other important step is you must CLEAN the $hit out of the cylinders when your done with "perfered hot water and soap. No degreaser or citrus just straigh ole ajax, dawn etc....

I did some reading some where about hone types. I guess the type you buy at like advanced auto with the springs and stones is actually a "glaze breaker" and will remove material making bore bigger. The little spiral ball type will not remove much material at all..... Then there are machine shop set ups with same stuff as the breaker but they normally have bunch of stone grades to match rings and what not.

^ thats really all it said<-- who knows?

[idahotuner]

there isnt any reason to dump the coolant, just oil

[liquid_cool]

as for cross hatch pattern most are 45 i guess some ive seen are more like 45 and a 60....

some rebuild books and crap recommend trying to replicate whats at the bottom of the cylinders (factory angle)

Really i guess it comes down to the rings. I guess the above method would be ideal for oem rings. If using aftermarket id say try contact them just to verify what they recommend. Honestly its not a big thing anyways give it a couple up and downs with a honer lubed up with wd40. The only other important step is you must CLEAN the $hit out of the cylinders when your done with "perfered hot water and soap. No degreaser or citrus just straigh ole ajax, dawn etc....

I did some reading some where about hone types. I guess the type you buy at like advanced auto with the springs and stones is actually a "glaze breaker" and will remove material making bore bigger. The little spiral ball type will not remove much material at all..... Then there are machine shop set ups with same stuff as the breaker but they normally have bunch of stone grades to match rings and what not.

^ thats really all it said<-- who knows?

hay bro...might i recomend a book " How to Blueprint your engine" it's an "SA" brand book found in most book stores...it will clarify things a bit when it comes to Critical things like the hone and cross hatch pattern...

@Idaho....your rite...but the first change i dump it all anyways as kinda a flush..just incase there was some debris..thats just me.

[lexcrob]

Picked up ur recommended book. WOW very good read good tip. Im actually about to start a ka24de build up. Original intent was supercharger but the $ is saying its gonna go budget to the max NA. < like make all my own gaskets budget LOL

My plan is to put this ever growing myth that streetable roughly 200hp ka24de is just that. Realizing that there is almost no dyno graphs NA for ka's and that cam timing has never really been addressed. < --- look into degreeing that ever popular exhaust as intake cam swap <<<<some are making unbelievable power 176

(even import tuner made a descret claim power is to be made)

[lexcrob]

Not to thread jack but-- I was thinking of saving the $ for high compression pistons or sohc (no one knows how to do it anyways) and just milling deck and head for my compression bump. Hopefully it will be enough!

[asoomal]

Picked up ur recommended book. WOW very good read good tip. Im actually about to start a ka24de build up. Original intent was supercharger but the $ is saying its gonna go budget to the max NA. < like make all my own gaskets budget LOL

My plan is to put this ever growing myth that streetable roughly 200hp ka24de is just that. Realizing that there is almost no dyno graphs NA for ka's and that cam timing has never really been addressed. < --- look into degreeing that ever popular exhaust as intake cam swap <<<<some are making unbelievable power 176

(even import tuner made a descret claim power is to be made)

Search up Greaser's N/A build on Fresh Alloy...it's not cheap man.

[lexcrob]

200whp-naka-pump-gas-done-t547243.html

dear god.......expensive thats all i got to say awesome but JEEZ like 7,000$ roughly