After overheating, and blowing my head gasket, I have completely re-built my motor. (Stock re-build, bearings, rings, etc...). I plan to drop the motor back in soon and am hoping for some feedback from NICO...There seems to be many opinions on the topic of engine break-in. I certainly have searched and would like to hear from those of you who have been successful in this area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Break In / Start Up Procedures, Suggestions, Experiences Needed
Of the half dozen or so engines I have re-built and broken in, I have generally done the slow and easy method.
With my current build however I tried something different. I used break-in oil started her up, bled the coolant system, set the timing etc... and replaced the break-in oil after about 30 minutes it took me to do all that stuff. Then using good old fashioned Rotella 10w 30 I began driving gingerly for about 100 miles. Replaced the oil again using Rotella, I began really driving the car. Quick excelleration, engine breaking, long idling, sustained high speeds for about 500 miles. Checked the oil, replaced the filter and logged another 500 miles. Reasons for using the Rotella were because the oil has high concentrations of zinc and the detergents are not as strong as more conventional oils because this oil is used primarily for diesel and commercial type vehicles to which bearing longevity is key. Soooo when breaking in an engine, bearing integrity is key. (or so I was told by the guy that works on my brothers transmission and gearing for his 4x4)
Finally replaced oil with synthetic Castrol 10w 30 and drove for about 1000 miles and went in for a compression and leakdown test. Good high even comp across all 4 cylinders with no more than 3psi difference from highest to lowest cylinders. The only thing I did wrong was not evenly tighten the oil pan bolts so I had some disappearing oil issues that have recently been taken care of.
With my current build however I tried something different. I used break-in oil started her up, bled the coolant system, set the timing etc... and replaced the break-in oil after about 30 minutes it took me to do all that stuff. Then using good old fashioned Rotella 10w 30 I began driving gingerly for about 100 miles. Replaced the oil again using Rotella, I began really driving the car. Quick excelleration, engine breaking, long idling, sustained high speeds for about 500 miles. Checked the oil, replaced the filter and logged another 500 miles. Reasons for using the Rotella were because the oil has high concentrations of zinc and the detergents are not as strong as more conventional oils because this oil is used primarily for diesel and commercial type vehicles to which bearing longevity is key. Soooo when breaking in an engine, bearing integrity is key. (or so I was told by the guy that works on my brothers transmission and gearing for his 4x4)
Finally replaced oil with synthetic Castrol 10w 30 and drove for about 1000 miles and went in for a compression and leakdown test. Good high even comp across all 4 cylinders with no more than 3psi difference from highest to lowest cylinders. The only thing I did wrong was not evenly tighten the oil pan bolts so I had some disappearing oil issues that have recently been taken care of.
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asoomal
- Posts: 2374
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:45 pm
- Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored) - Location: Canada
All I do is just start it up, idle for 10 mins, then change the oil with 5W30 Castrol (Conventional) with an OEM filter. And then start it up again, drive it lightly for 50KM and do another oil change.
After that, drive it slightly harder with light engine braking with minimum idling for about 150KM. Change the oil again, and drive it harder, with lots and lots of mid range pulls. Start from 3500 and floor it till 5000 in 2nd and 3rd.
When I'm done with that, I do another oil change at the 500KM mark, still using the OEM filter and 5W30 Castrol Conventional. Do this every 500KM until 3000KM, and then change the oil again. Idle it for 15 minutes with light-moderate revving and then change it again with your preferred oil filter and oil :P.
After that, drive it slightly harder with light engine braking with minimum idling for about 150KM. Change the oil again, and drive it harder, with lots and lots of mid range pulls. Start from 3500 and floor it till 5000 in 2nd and 3rd.
When I'm done with that, I do another oil change at the 500KM mark, still using the OEM filter and 5W30 Castrol Conventional. Do this every 500KM until 3000KM, and then change the oil again. Idle it for 15 minutes with light-moderate revving and then change it again with your preferred oil filter and oil :P.
Re: (asoomal)
Thanks for the info. I used a combination of assembly lubes when building the motor and used the Lucas additive on the cams before start up. After that I poured in the Rotella with the valve cover off to coat everything from the top down. After a couple minor leak issues ( coolant and exhaust ) took it out for the test drive tonight. Oil pressure is around 60 at 1000 RPM. Gotta adjust the idle a bit, but other than a few noises I am not used to, seems to be good. Not alot of "pull" in first or second gear yet, but I imagine that will come around as everything seats. Trying to avoid keeping it at a steady speed and alot of engine breaking. Hopefully get some more miles on tomorrow. Again, thanks for the replies... It's kind of nerve wracking breaking in a motor for the first time!
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240freak90
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:19 pm
- Car: 90 240sx KA24E
Re: (psmith)
your gonna want engine braking. it puts a load on the piston and rings in the opposite direction as you would be when giving it throttle which will help seat the rings better
Re: (240freak90)
Well 65 miles in and I'm thinking I have a dead injector...I got the timing right last night (Was pretty far off, my fault) Drove fine last night and decided to drive it to work for the first time today. This morning went fine. Ran smooth. Pulled pretty good, and I babied it all the way.Drove about 3 miles toward home tonight and something went wrong. Motor started running rough and RPMs kept getting lower at every stop light. Thought about taking my chances but had at least 15 more miles to drive in stop and go traffic. So I parked it and am getting it towed home tomorrow. My guess is an injector died. I have had one die on me before and the symptoms were similar. I really won't know until tomorrow, but I thought I'd update and hope maybe you guys would have other suggestions / troubleshooting ideas.
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240freak90
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:19 pm
- Car: 90 240sx KA24E
Re: (psmith)
aw that sucks man but better safe than sorry. check your coil wire tho. mine kept popping off and was grounding out. it would still run as long as it was touching the dist. cap but was running really rough with a low idlepsmith wrote:Well 65 miles in and I'm thinking I have a dead injector...I got the timing right last night (Was pretty far off, my fault) Drove fine last night and decided to drive it to work for the first time today. This morning went fine. Ran smooth. Pulled pretty good, and I babied it all the way.Drove about 3 miles toward home tonight and something went wrong. Motor started running rough and RPMs kept getting lower at every stop light. Thought about taking my chances but had at least 15 more miles to drive in stop and go traffic. So I parked it and am getting it towed home tomorrow. My guess is an injector died. I have had one die on me before and the symptoms were similar. I really won't know until tomorrow, but I thought I'd update and hope maybe you guys would have other suggestions / troubleshooting ideas.
Re: (240freak90)
It was number 4 injector. Probably should have bought all new injectors, seeing as everything is fresh. Lesson learned.