Brass Oil Tee Safe? (for oil feed)

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GTR PrYdE
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I bought a brass tee thinking it was **STEEL**... from Stealthmode Performance. I remember reading that someone has an issue with a brass tee, but wanted more opinions if I should buy a steel one or just keep this one.

I plan on using it for the oil feed, stock gauge, and aftermarket pressure gauge.

edit: steel
Modified by GTR PrYdE at 8:31 PM 2/17/2008


Florida240sx
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Toss it. Unless you want to blow your engine.

Florida240sx
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eazye2000
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Mine snapped off in the oil filter block, that bolts to the engine. I wouldn't recommend it.

I took out the stock sensor, and ran a copper line to my firewall. And then there, is where I put the 'T' and hung it off the firewall for better support. I don't think I have any pictures.

Forgot to add, that I have the steel 'T' in the block. One goes to the engine, one goes to feed the turbo, and the other goes to said firewall contraption.

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neverlift
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lol you guys just did it wrong, you need to come straight out the block, then use a t fitting.... Over 7k miles with that setup...

Florida240sx
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You can't use a t fitting to go into the lock you need an adapter. clock is bspt sandard brass fitting is npt

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GTR PrYdE
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So looks like I will get another one. Remote mount wouldn't help either?

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GTR PrYdE
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eazye2000 wrote:Mine snapped off in the oil filter block, that bolts to the engine. I wouldn't recommend it.

I took out the stock sensor, and ran a copper line to my firewall. And then there, is where I put the 'T' and hung it off the firewall for better support. I don't think I have any pictures.

Forgot to add, that I have the steel 'T' in the block. One goes to the engine, one goes to feed the turbo, and the other goes to said firewall contraption.
Details on the copper line? Do you remember what all you used? Thanks

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GTR PrYdE
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In a funny twist, I found that even though the company claims it is brass. It's not.

This tee is very magnetic..

However, I still want to remote mount the gauge

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Biggamehit
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i had no issue with mine for over a year until i hung a oil presser sender on the end of it.. and ignored physics.. the T vibrated and snapped... then i just moved the sender to the Middle of the T pointing down.. no issues.. and i have done drag and drift comps and over 1000 miles no issue.

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eazye2000
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Ok guys, I just racked my brain trying to put this together for you all. I hope this helps. I had everything here at the house to do this. So that's why I did it. Or I would have opted to get the 'Sandwich' Adapter and used that between my filter and the block.Here's my best go at it. Personally, I think it's self explanatory. But if you missed something, let me know and I'll try to help you out.

If you look in the pic, I only have the small copper line(which is a typical mechanical gauge sending hose) going to the remote 'T' fitting because all it sees is pressure. No 'flow' goes to it. That's also why I opted to feed the turbo with the 'T' fitting that is right off the block.


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GTR PrYdE
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The tee only can accept the factory sensor on the outside, no? On mine, that's the only port that fits.

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GTR PrYdE
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Thanks! This is more of what I'll probably do. More specifically eazy, what fittings did you use to make the copper lines? I will probably go to the hardware store and let them figure it out, but nico could always use good information


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eazye2000
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The copper line is the one that is normally included in any mechanical gauge that you buy. By default, they package the line, and compression fittings in there and the other end of those fittings go onto a 1/8" NPT male/female fitting. So basically the gauge comes with 2 1/8" NPT fittings at either end.

This has one Female, and One Male at each end. http://store.summitracing.com/...-3224

And I think this one even comes with a few assorted adapters. And is Female on each end. http://store.summitracing.com/...50856


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Biggamehit
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thats how i had mine.... the sender was not heavy at all.. but when going up and down.. with solid mounts etc... the forces was enough to snap the fitting off in the oil filter mount... had to use an ez out on the highway lol to fix it... luckily i had extra 1/8npt fittings on me



now if i would have put the sender in the middle facing down. it would still be on until this day....

also don't over tighten the T... they don't like to expand and they will crack..

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neverlift
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Florida240sx wrote:You can't use a t fitting to go into the lock you need an adapter. clock is bspt sandard brass fitting is npt
no no no I did it like thisblock__straight fitting___hose__T fitting__oil feed__pressure sender

its a npt I used to go into the block

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coolbone28
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You guys make this too hard on yourselves. All you need is a sandwich plate adapter. That way you can leave your stock sensor there and you have like 3 other empty oil ports for whatever...

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Biggamehit
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not hard at all bro... takes all of what 5 min to install it... who cares about the stock sender when you have a after market accurate gauge. if your stock sender light comes on anyway lol... your to late with a boosted application

now that copper line jazz is not needed.. that sender will fit without all that .. i know it looks tight.. but i have a even smaller T and the sender doesn't touch the block at all

mechanical oil gauges have proven them selves for year.. but they are also prone to breaking and leaking... and they are not suppose to be run inside the cab for obvious reasons.

lrb_2000
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here's how I did mine.. I used a cross fitting. The top left goes into the block, one is the oil feed and the other two go for oil pressure and oil temp.. has worked fine.


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sunnys14
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Does anyone know if the JGS oil line kit use a steel or brass Tee?

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redtop91
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I had a brass T for my oil pressure gauge and it snapped off and now I'm rebuilding my engine. I'd say that brass is a No no.

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GTR PrYdE
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JGS is steel.

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GTR PrYdE
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Biggamehit wrote:not hard at all bro... takes all of what 5 min to install it... who cares about the stock sender when you have a after market accurate gauge. if your stock sender light comes on anyway lol... your to late with a boosted application

now that copper line jazz is not needed.. that sender will fit without all that .. i know it looks tight.. but i have a even smaller T and the sender doesn't touch the block at all
I have to use to stock sensor unless I get a plug for it, which isn't a bad idea, and I wanted to use copper line (which didn't come wiht my autometer gauge) because it takes weight off the tee. But it turns out my tee is steel so that's good.

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ppctx
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There's a plug that looks like it can be unscrewed with an allen wrench just below the factory sender... is there any thing wrong with using that location for heavy accesories or is that for something else? I used a little PB Blaster but it didn't come right out, and I didn't know if it could be used so I quite before the wrench slipped and I broke a nuckle.

Oh, some steel fitting use a coating that resemble brass but its used just to prevent rust

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Biggamehit
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yea the one i used now is a smalll stout lil block of CNC milled steel.... not snapping ever lol
Modified by Biggamehit at 1:51 AM 2/21/2008

redhb240SXS13
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**edit**

I just re-read eazy's post. I love that setup, probably going to do the same.

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ppctx
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does no one use the spare bung?

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480sx
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I found the spare bung points at to weird of an angle to use it for either the feed or a sender.

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eazye2000
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redhb240SXS13 wrote:I just re-read eazy's post. I love that setup, probably going to do the same.
It works beautifully. Just clutters the firewall a bit more. I can snap pics in the next day or two. It's supposed to snow like a hizzore..

Anyways, if I could do it again, I would use this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

If anything goes south with my setup, I will be going with that sandwich adapter. But if/when I build the S14, it will be using that sandwich adapter for sure.Just for ease, and whatnot.

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GTR PrYdE
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I thought tee's were better than sandwich plates?


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