Hello all! It has been a long time since I posted here on nico, but I could not have done this without your help. I have been in the long process of building a drift car. It has been almost 5 years and thousands of dollars later I am about to finish my dream car.
Here is the build, and I built the motor myself.
1991 coupe se with working hud
Ross 8.5 to 1 compression pistons .020 over
Pauter rods
Toga main and rod bearings
Toga h.v. oil pump
Arp head studs
Msd blaster coil
Comitic h.g.
B.C. stage 2 cams
Z32 maf
Hks ssqv bov
Xcessive manifold and d/p
Precision t3/t4 50 trim .63 on the hot side stage 3 turbine wheel
Big a$$ fmic
Empathy tune
Ams fuel system w/ss lines and 750cc injectors and fuel lab adjustable
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
Innovative wideband
Auto meter oil pressure and boost gauge
Stance gr pro+ coilovers
Battle ground rauca
Adjustable tie rods in rear
Big sway bars
Aluminum subframe bushings
I had it running last night before I had to work. I set the timing and it seemed to be running like a champ. I shut it down, and had my buddy get my phone out so I could take a vid to post and I think she got camera shy and decided it did not to restart...
Any insite would be appreciated. Thank you for the constant motivation from other members, though it may not be direct, all of your builds have been a positive influence on me. I had done times where money was hard to come by and the thought if selling it had been thrown out there. But somehow I always managed to pull the funds I needed to continue this project. Once again thank you nico community, I could have NEVER gotten this far without you. Please continue to "keep it real".

Congrats!!!

I'd start by seeing if it re-starts when it's cold. If not, check the usual spark, fuel, timing.

First off, thank you for the responce, any input is appreciated.
It fires right up when cold. From what I can tell it seems like a hot soak problem.. Unfortunatly i have a wedding tomorrow,and sunday I am going to auto x my wrx for the last race of the season so I wont be able to get into it untl Sunday night or Monday.

That's ok, don't rush things.

Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?

Yes I do sir.

Here are a bunch of pictures of my build, they are just randoms. I hope you like them!

Working hud is great! Sorry random , but true! Make sure your f.p. Is turning on. Also I have 740cc injectors and sometimes if I don't start my engine good , like crank it alittle while then immediately try to recrank it those injectors do a full pulse cold start spray which basically floods the engine big time. I have to sit there with the accelerator fully depressed , and crank the heck out of it for sometimes over 30 seconds! If you stop before it starts REPEAT! I've killed my little oddesy pc680 more than once doing that.

Interesting color scheme, and you weren't kidding, that is one BIG intercooler!

Yes! I put it at clear flood mode(wot while cranking) and it fires up no problem. Thank you for that info, I was getting a little worried for a min.
Yes the color scheme is to piss off people who hate pink. Its a drift car so I figured I would be as out the box as I could be...more to make ppl scratch their head..haha

That thing is clean as hell for a drift car.

Well it has its defects, I was I was a down pour with a welded diff and blown suspension (the shocks were so bad when I took them out and turned them upside down the little oil that was left drained out like water) I was going to McDonald's with a friend, and the rear end started hoping around a corner, so I pushed the clutch in and tapped type e-brake to try to regain traction, that didn't do anything at that point. I ended up jumping a 4 inch curb and tapping a light pole with the driver side rear 1/4. Oddly enough I didn't even scratch my wheels at all, the wheel hop was that bad.
So to make a long story short I need to get that 1/4 replaced this winter as well as a cage installed.

No problem! Glad to help! Oh and another thing if worst comes to worst , I've actually had to unplug all my injectors and then crank the engine till it starts and then slowly plug the injectors back in while the engine is running. That's a fail proof way to start a flooded in worst way engine! Sorry about your accident! Good luck on the body work.

To my thinking, regardless of injector size, they should be dumping the same amount of fuel at start and idle as a stock set. That or the tune is jacked. For the most part, a motor will start easier and idle better when rich as compared to lean. Which is why many manufacturers install a cold start injector that just dumps fuel into the intake manifold during all cold starts...hence the name...

Anyway, if you're flooding that dude during start-up you must be seriously rich. How do the plugs look? What's the gap like? Often times when the heat range is colder it effects the start and idle quality, not usually enough to cause a flood though, just sayin.

Pauter rods ftmfw, those things are solid.

I'm a pink hater, I actually muttered something like...oh what the f***...when I scrolled down to the motor image

D-UNIT wrote:No problem! Glad to help! Oh and another thing if worst comes to worst , I've actually had to unplug all my injectors and then crank the engine till it starts and then slowly plug the injectors back in while the engine is running. That's a fail proof way to start a flooded in worst way engine! Sorry about your accident! Good luck on the body work.

I usually opt for the fuel pump fuse. 1 plug as opposed to 4, and its much more accessible.

helo all again, so I drove it for the first time Monday night...it was fkin awesome, I didnt boost (fresh motor) but it feels so right to be back in an s13. The hot start issue has become non exsistant but, my dif fan controller decided that it does not want to work.
Here is the low down on that. First I ran all the wires (bkue with white is the + for the cts), and yada yada yada, after everything was where I wanted it to be, I programmed the fans per instructions. They pulsed 4 times like they should, So I hooked everything up and started the motor. At this point, I have the fans set at the lowest temp possible for verification of operation. As the motor hit 150,they shuld kick on. Nothing happened,then 160,170,180,190 still nothing so I shut her down to try to figure what I did wrong. As i shut it down and turned the engine to K.O.E.O. the fans kicked on...wtf I checked all of the wires, everything checked out good, I even checked my 12v ig source wire at K.O.E.O., it was good. So one last thought as im scratching my head and watching yet another day go by that im not driving my car,I think"maybe for some reason my 12v trigger is no good with the motor running,or maybe it cuts out after it starts", I think man would this be sweet if this was it, So I fire it up again and check the Ig wire,12.8 volts ****. Now I am not a complete noob, but this is my first full build so I have done alot of learning along the way,along with making some boner mistakes (like putting my vac block behind the check valve for the brake boosteer ). But to be honest I am really confused with this problem. The fans do not even turn on with the over ride switch while its running, but when its K.O.E.O it works every time..Any input would be swell. Thank you!

WD your post made my laugh so hard..