Braking solutions

[jjisguilty]

I need to upgrade my brakes in a bad way. New pads just won't due and i was considering getting new performance pads, slotted rotors, and SS lines. Sourcing brand new parts for front and rear comes around the same price as brand new Q45 front calipers, front rotors, and front lines. The con of this route would be the front/rear bias when upgrading just the front. I was also thinking about sourcing used Z32 parts for all four corners but was worried about MC and bias issues. My question is what would NICO do?

[K]

Are you trying to improve 60 to 0 time or reduce brake fade? There's a lot of overlap there, but they're not entirely the same thing. SS lines and fancy pads really do nothing for brake fade and slotted rotors will do little.

I recently installed SS lines and switched to Hawk HPS pads on my S13, all else being stock, and i really can't tell much of a difference (didn't really expect too much to begin with). I believe that the SS lines are a good, relatively cheap investment, but it's like a 5% improvement, if that.

If you do Z32 all around, just source a Z32 MC too. then you will have no bias issues (although i believe that there are some e-brake issues to deal with when sing rear Z32 calipers).

K

[jjisguilty]

I was going to use pads that are engineered to resist fade. I feel that it is more important than 60-0 but i still want to be able to slow down quick, just consistantly. I like the surface area of slotted rotors over drilled and I don't want the mushy feeling of Z32 brakes. I'd like a strong bite with good fade resistance.

[forksquared]

i bought cross drilled and slotted rotors and PBR metal master brake pads from ebay and they seem like good quality i havnt had a lot of driving on them yet but for 199$ shipped all around i figured why the hell not. i got them from 88rotors, that is the ebay sellers name

[hybrid_flyer]

I don't want the mushy feeling of Z32 brakes. I'd like a strong bite with good fade resistance.

z32 are far from mushy, i would say a very positive grab when you apply them. But yeah you have to fab something up in order to get the parking brakes to work right

[forksquared]

you might b able to get ebrake calbles here http://performancenissanparts.com/

edit kinda expensive but here they arehttp://performancenissanparts....=5682

[seejaytoo]

all i can say is z32 all around ftw i did ss lines, and axis pads with ebay drilled and slotted rotors. i also swapped out for the 1 1/16 bore MC (the largest z32's came with) as for an ebrake just make sure the cables are uncut, they will hook right up. it really is a bolt on deal. this site has alot of info http://importnut.net/ as for 60-0 you cant describe the difference i love going fast just so i can stop lolthe pedal feel is very firm, much better than stock, as for fade im not too sure i havent really beat on it for a long period of time, so i cant say anyway hope this helps, good luck

[AmoebAssassin]

Moved to tires/wheels/brakes/suspension.

[hybrid_flyer]

all i can say is z32 all around ftw just make sure the cables are uncut, they will hook right up. it really is a bolt on deal. this site has alot of info http://importnut.net/

Did you use the Z32 cable, I was under the impression that the cable is the wrong length for a swap??

[seejaytoo]

yup i did, unhooked the stock 240 ones, hooked up z32, but you do need to adjust it via the little nut under your ebrake handle. and i must say my ebrake is much better than before, and no problems thus far

[hybrid_flyer]

thanks for that info, now i dont have to rig something up. Now I just gotta get the M/C and the cables

[seejaytoo]

A note about the M/C, the one i grabbed had 3 spots for the hardlines. 1 was plugged, and next to that plugged one was a little hole, i removed that plug for my middle hardline that the z32s dont have. anyway when everything was done and bled that little hole was shooting fluid out onto my exhaust, i dunno why, its not big enough for a line i have no clue what its for but just make sure your M/C doesnt have one. oh and one little tip i thought might be of help, when removing your old cables loosen that little nut under your handle about 2 or 3 threads from the end then lower the handle, it will give you a little slack to work with underneath while unhooking and reconnecting the cables, if you need any more help ill try to keep an eye here, or just shoot me an email

[Shift_Kouki]

Amazing... has anyone asked about what break fluid the OP is using? And what about brake ducting to keep those temps down and within operating range?

Just a thought before swapping out all that other hardware.

[jjisguilty]

If you could feel my brakes, you would know that brake fluid won't due justice. I think i'm going to try and correctly source some Z32 calipers (all around) and and the MC and cable. I never thought I'd like good brakes as much as now since I did my SR swap.

[Poor_S13_Driver]

Anyone have any input on the Q brakes? Particualry a noticeable diffrence over stock? Im more concerned with 60-0 stopping distance than fade.

[K]

Assuming the fluid in question isn't old and water logged, that wouldn't cause brae fade unless your hitting the road course for a couple of laps. It's pretty hard to heat up brake fluid enough on the street to cause significant fade, once again, that's assuming the fluid isn't already soaked.

K

[Shift_Kouki]

Yeah, the main reason I am upgrading my fluid and pads, and remembering to bleed regularly was a bit of a rude awakening at VIR involving some pretty horendous brake fade.

I just wanted to double check that the OP had his bases covered before going big. -- Good luck man!!!!

[boznuttz]

Ugh, I'm taking Paypal action against one guy on Ebay. He sent me SEVERELY coned rotors for the front. It really looks like he just held the rotor down with one nut, since it is very off. It wobbles left and right with a 3 to 4 mm difference. The rotors are from Raceconcepts on Ebay, and the customer support is s***, so, if he continues to ignore my attempts, I am going to file a claim, and make a HUGE post about their products.

[hannibal]

In order of braking performance...

1) Upgrade stock S13 partsKeep stock calipersNew rotors (you implied yours were bad). I'd go with Brembo blanks.Better padsStainless steel linesBetter brake fluid

2) Q45/J30 brakes90-96 Q45 or J30 front calipers (theyre virtually identical)Q45/J30 front rotorsJ30 rear calipersJ30 vented rear rotors (90-96 Q rears are thinner and solid)Better padsStainless steel linesBetter fluid

3) Z32 brakesZ32 4 piston calipersZ32 front rotorsZ32 2 piston rear calipersZ32 rear rotorsZ32 drum style ebrakenew (longer) ebrake linespadslinesfluid

NopiOnline.com has great prices on Brembo blanks. See if one of our sponsors will match them. http://www.SPLParts.com has lines for a great price: $45 per axles last I checked.

I say all this under the impression this is a daily driven street car, not a track car. Ducting wouldnt be necessary nor show much improvement.

Q brakes use the same sized rotors, with 'smaller' calipers. I'm pretty sure they will be as good as Z brakes, unless youre running some REALLY sticky tires. (but that isnt likely for a DD street car)

[boznuttz]

I'm not saying all Ebay products are bad, this jerkoff that I am waiting on is just.......REALLY annoying me, lol.

[wiggins]

Hi there guys! I'm just new in this forum and I would just like to share some experiences regarding changing the brakes of my Nissan car.

Few weeks back, I noticed that my brakes are making a lot of noise and somewhat difficult to stop, I tried to call my friend to check on my car brakes and we need to replace some of the parts, like " TARGET="_blank">Nissan Calipers, " TARGET="_blank">Nissan Brake Pads and " TARGET="_blank">Nissan Brake Rotors. Tried to order these parts online and my friend is also the one who installed these on my car. After that it worked pretty fine.

This also gave me a lesson that I need to check my brake system on a regular basis so that I would know if its still properly working. But I hope this brake system that I have right now would last long..