Brakes...what else can it be?

Got questions about your Nissan? We're here to help, and it's FREE!
User avatar
benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

Post

'90 240sx - no ABS

My friend recently got this car and saw no problems, but I am not impressed by the brakes. From my limited experience, it feels very much like glazed pads. However, the pads, master cylinder, and booster have all been replaced and there is still no difference. (they need replacing anyway as the pads were in fact glazed, and the master cylinder had filled the booster with fluid) I have also properly bled the lines, and replaced the fluid while I was at it.

I have even tried new rotors and calipers just for grins, though I'm back to the old ones as that did no good. So, the only thing that I know of that is either not new or hasn't been made new temporarily is the brake lines. What can be causing this? Surely this isn't normal or something? I realize some cars just have different brakes, but I can push frightfully hard on the pedal and still not lock up the wheels.

I'm tired and aggrivated, so if I've left something out, please be forgiving.

umm...in case I wasn't clear: The brakes just don't feel as 'grabby' as most cars I've driven do. When I push the pedal down, it goes down a bit before the brakes kick in. I feel as though I must puch as hard to stop from going 40 as I normally would to stop from going 70. I would not call the pedal 'spongey', and applying constant pressure does not cause it to sink slowly, however I can push it all the way to the floor, given the aid of the booster.


Altiman94
Posts: 5891
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 12:13 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX

Post

I would rebleed all the lines again. It seems there still may be some air in the lines.

User avatar
benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

Post

They have been bled and rebled. I normally do them RR RL FR FL, but I've also done them RL RR FL FR as this is how Chilton says to do it...??

I was quite certain that all the air was gone, regardless of which order I chose, but is it really possible that there is still air somewhere? Can it not be anything else?

User avatar
Magnes
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2003 6:58 pm
Car: '89 240SX, done up with a chrome-plated ground wire to the engine.

Post

Sounds like you're describing the clutch pedal. The brake pedal is the one in the middle.

hehehe ... sorry.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

Post

try bleeding the master cyl at the lines coming off of it. do your bleed process as you would at the wheels but instead crack the lines open at the master cyl when your partner is holding the pedal down. Do this a few times then retest the brakes. This car has rear disc brakes or drums?

User avatar
benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

Post

It has rear disk brakes. I'll try bleeding again later today, and I'll do the master cylinder thing too. Could someone explain about this master cylinder though? If it works, I'll be happy, but I'd also like to know why it works.

droll
Posts: 110
Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 8:53 am

Post

If you replaced the master cylinder, you probably got air in it. Bleeding the brakes at the wheel cylinders will not neccessarily remove the air that is trapped in/at the master cylinder, at least not easily. It is a good idea to bleed a master cylinder before installing it in the car.

nlzmo400r
Posts: 4904
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:23 pm
Car: '02 Nissan Altima QR25DE
'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE

Post

how would u bleed a master brake cylinder when its not on a car?

KaDrifter
Posts: 222
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:42 pm

Post

Fill the master cly reservoir up with brake fluid cap off one of the ports and pump the cyl with a metal dowel or something simliar till fluid starts comeing out then do the second one the same way

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

Post

they have cheap kits for doing this at sears and other tool places. it has adapters that screw into the line ports on the master. The kit comes with hoses you plug into the adapters and submerge the other end in the resivor. use a rod as Ka mentioned and pump away [I use a #3 phillips screw driver it fits perfectly in the booster rod port]all the air in it simply bubbles out in the resivor without drawing air back in. This is also alot less messy:D

droll
Posts: 110
Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 8:53 am

Post

Yeah, the kits usually come with instructions too.

nlzmo400r
Posts: 4904
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:23 pm
Car: '02 Nissan Altima QR25DE
'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE

Post

about how much do those cost?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

Post

less then 20 bucks

nlzmo400r
Posts: 4904
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:23 pm
Car: '02 Nissan Altima QR25DE
'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE

Post

awesome, thanks nistedh

User avatar
benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

Post

Well I've bled the master cylinder and the entire system again to no avail. My friend is convinced now that it must be the brake lines. Sound likely? I guess that is the only part of the brake system that hasn't been replaced.

I might add that the calipers I tried were from a junk yard, so there's no guarantee that they were in great condition...

User avatar
1989coupe
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 4:54 am
Car: 1989 240sx coupe

Post

When I bought my master cyllinder from advence auto parts, it came with the bleeding lines.


Return to “Nissan Online Mechanic”