Brakes...

[gkdyeung]

Quick question for a complete amateur automobilist. i.e. me.
Is there a status lower than amateur? Bottom line... i don't know much about cars.
So I've got 125,000km on my EX (2010)... and i'm finally due for a front brake pads/rotors change... or so i'm told... they're down to 2.4mm.
unfortunately i couldn't accommodate an on-the-spot change at the dealership.
just polling to see how long i have?
do i need to take the car off the road at this point?
or are there still quite a few kilometers of life left (given how long it's taken to wear down to 2.4mm)?
i drive for a living, so i often do 400km drives (mostly highway) in 1 sitting.
and the snow is finally gone so roads are dry.
thanks in advance
gord

[CDNicecube]

Pads with only 2.4 mm are done, almost done at least. Heat resistance is lowered, and then pads will wear faster and faster. How long? It depends on your driving style. I'd change them soon myself. I used Akebono pads with ATE rotors up front and they are a superb combination.
FYI I changed my front pads and rotors at 74,000km. My rear pads earlier, at 64,000km. My rear rotors are due very soon (84,000km) and I plan to do so in 2 weeks.

[gkdyeung]

thanks CDNicecube.

[XIS]

I changed my stock pads to Akebono ceremic at about 60K even though my stock pads had lots of life... they were just noisy and too much dark brake dust.
I still use my same rotors. They might be a tiny bit better than stock, but they also are quiet and produce an almost white dust, and not as much of it.

I have never changed rotors on any car I have ever had... I also have never let my brake pads go till they hit the wear indicator either.

(Get your pads changed within the next week or so. You can probably find someone to do it very affordable that is not a dealership.)

[NJGuy]

I wouldn't say to take the car off the road yet, but if I were in your shoes I'd make a concerted effort to get those brakes changed out within a week or two.

Brakes can be changed out by pretty much any shop and usually at a lower price. Getting the work done at the Infiniti dealership is probably more expensive, but may have other benefits as well. The dealership will use OEM parts. While I prefer certain aftermarket brake parts, I don't think there's anything wrong with the OEM parts other than cost. Unlike the parts that a franchise auto repair shop would provide you, at least you know the levels of quality and performance of what you're getting. Also, if you cannot be without a vehicle while your car is being worked on, sometimes the dealership offers loaner vehicles. I know at least mine does.

In your case it may be important to find some place to do the job that best fits your schedule and needs. A front brake job shouldn't take more than an hour of work for a professional, but the actual wait time may vary depending on how busy the place is.

Please let us know what happens.

[gkdyeung]

went with the oft quoted akebono on ate rotors.
haven't really "tested" the new set-up but i can already tell they're squeek-free... haha...
now to hunt for tires...
thanks all.

[dreamingat30fps]

I just did my rear brakes which were on the way out. Honestly it was much easier than I thought, however I only did pads no rotors so. Cost me like $40 for the pads on Amazon. Dealer wanted like $350.

[CDNicecube]

So with all this talk of rotors and pads, I decided to do my rear rotors today. It was not too challenging once I figured out I had to take off the brake caliber bracket altogether with a 19mm wrench to access the rotors and take them out. I used centric rotors for the rear with Akebono pads (ATE at the front but don't make any fir the rear). The braking is now perfect.

I had changed the rear pads (only) 20,000km ago and the rear pads were at 50% already. The front were fine (90%).

Perhaps Akebono pads are softer? I don't mind replacing pads more often; they are cheap insurance overall. Oh, and it is important to lube well the rear bottom slinder pins. They are one piece unit attached to the caliber. Mine passenger side pin was rusted!

Cheers.

[NJGuy]

So with all this talk of rotors and pads, I decided to do my rear rotors today. It was not too challenging once I figured out I had to take off the brake caliber bracket altogether with a 19mm wrench to access the rotors and take them out. I used centric rotors for the rear with Akebono pads (ATE at the front but don't make any fir the rear). The braking is now perfect.

Thanks for the follow up. I've got the Akebono pads on the rear, but didn't notice too much of a difference from the pads that they replaced. We'll see what happens when I change the OEM pads and rotors up front. I've got another set of Akebono pads and Raybestos rotors sitting in the garage waiting to be installed on my EX. Hopefully I'll get to change them out soon.

[uklad99]

So with all this talk of rotors and pads, I decided to do my rear rotors today. It was not too challenging once I figured out I had to take off the brake caliber bracket altogether with a 19mm wrench to access the rotors and take them out. I used centric rotors for the rear with Akebono pads (ATE at the front but don't make any fir the rear). The braking is now perfect.

Thanks for the follow up. I've got the Akebono pads on the rear, but didn't notice too much of a difference from the pads that they replaced. We'll see what happens when I change the OEM pads and rotors up front. I've got another set of Akebono pads and Raybestos rotors sitting in the garage waiting to be installed on my EX. Hopefully I'll get to change them out soon.

My question is do you need a caliper compression tool to depress and TURN the piston on the rears? I'll be doing my rotors and pads tomorrow if anyone can help?
Cheers!

[uklad99]

My question is do you need a caliper compression tool to depress and TURN the piston on the rears? I'll be doing my rotors and pads tomorrow if anyone can help?
Cheers!

[NJGuy]

My question is do you need a caliper compression tool to depress and TURN the piston on the rears? I'll be doing my rotors and pads tomorrow if anyone can help?
Cheers!

You do not need to turn the pistons in the rear calipers. You just need to compress them using your choice of tools and methods. The caliper doesn't double up as the parking brake. The parking brake is separate and is contained within the rotor hat.

I just did my rear pads and rotors last weekend. I can't offer much help, but I did put up a thread about how my brake job went:
my-not-so-fun-rear-brake-job-t604439.html

Hopefully yours is uneventful.

[uklad99]

Thanks NJGuy.... big help
Done brakes many times before just this is a new car for me!