Message center on my 94 Q45 telling me the "brake pads are worn", so I'm going to take to Infiniti and have them "adjust/turn/replace". Just wanted to get an idea (not looking to be scared) of what this costs?
Rex (yes, I'm still new)
Brakes
-
OLU40
- Posts: 285
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:09 am
- Car: Infiniti's Martial Arts, Science, Reading, Sports, Computers, Electronics WOMEN!
In New York Infiniti wanted $120 just the turn the front rotors, not even mentioning replacing pads. If you can find a COMPETENT mechanic. He should know how to replace pads and rotors. More than likely he'll send the rotors out to get cut if they are not worn already. If so get them from Joe at Scottsdale Infiniti in Arizona. We get discounts for being Nico members. They're aftermarket rotors that are better in that they dont warp as fast but you can stick to basics for now until you're comfortable with experimenting. Do searches for all your other questions. Good luck! Welcome!
I scheduled with my local Infiniti dealer to have them "check" the brakes and adjust. I figure they'll give me an estimate and I'll decide based on how "realistic" they're qoute is. I'm fairly skilled, I used to change the brakes on my Honda in less than an hour. I don't have the "right" tools, but I feel pretty confident I can change the brakes and rotors myself, there's not cutting/welding (or is there....... kidding). I'm just trying to let the dealer/qualified tech do as much of the worj on my car as possible. I priced things out and I think I could buy rotors and pads for about $350 total. I searched the archive and only found 1 posting with any prices and the replies to his post said most (there were several) of the quotes he had gotten were high. Any thoughts?Rex (not as new)
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The factory pads retail for around $80 for each axle.....cheapest aftermarket suitable -[near to same quality as oem] rotors are around $55-$65-$70 each............new shim kits are $35 or so per axle .........decent parts should run around $510-$630 [$360-$450 from Scotsdale Infiniti].
Failure to index the rotors will result in the warps showing up in half the mileage!!!!
Failure to index the rotors will result in the warps showing up in half the mileage!!!!
-
slaughtermimms
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:30 pm
- Car: '95 Infiniti Q45
'02 Ford F150 - Location: Augusta, GA
What do you mean by (indexing the rotors), I have been working on cars for many years, have not heared of this.........or am I just showing how dumb I am? Just asking? :thinkerQ45tech wrote:The factory pads retail for around $80 for each axle.....cheapest aftermarket suitable -[near to same quality as oem] rotors are around $55-$65-$70 each............new shim kits are $35 or so per axle .........decent parts should run around $510-$630 [$360-$450 from Scotsdale Infiniti].
Failure to index the rotors will result in the warps showing up in half the mileage!!!!
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
There is a hub flatness specification [0.0015"]. When perfect rotors are bolted on a warped hub [from inproper wheel lug torque or just age wear/rust etc] the rotor edge becomes non perfect [acts like its warped because it is bolted to a warped surface]. Inside of rotor hats can build up differential rust corrosion also!You measure the runout on the NEW rotor as installed and attempt to find which of the 5 position of rotor vs hub studs creates the least runout.......the installed spec is 0.0028" maximum.
Such a problem that 4 TSB were written and 8 pages were devoted to testing/fixes in the 94 Supplemential training package.
If you cannot meet the spec [with the above] you can use an on the car brake lathe to MISTRUE the installed rotors flat or you can use BrakeAlign Hub Shims [0.003, 0.006, or 0.009"] to compensate for warped hubs.
Since rotors warp progressive the tighter you are to spec [ideally 0.0000000000000000"] the longer it takes to feel the warp.
Each owner's sensitivity varies some come in when 0.004", some wait until they are 0.010-0.015 [experience from when the rotors are trued].
I can feel the factory spec 0.0028" as an annoying skip [every rotation] in braking power long before the steering wheel begins to vibrate or the pedal pulsates. Therefore I try to get my installed rotors below 0.001" with shims........seems to extend the time between turns from 5,000 miles to closer to 10,000 miles.
Most owners have so many other vibrations [tires/worn rubber bushings and mounts, etc] that they never feel the brakes till the end.
The problem with drilled or slotted rotors is the on the car lathe is not rigid enough to deal with the holes and skips so that option is OUT.
Because of the precision in measuring 0.001" 4 times in 5 different hole stud locations [all lug nuts must be tightened to spec] , then picking the best match up it adds at least 30 minutes to each wheel...............at T3 we charge an extra $45 per wheel to index rotors.
It is a wash [financially], reture rotors every 5,000 miles or spend the EXTRA time once and get 10,000 miles or become NUMB to the problem.
I went so far as to replace 2 of the worst hubs and wheel bearings as I couldn't find shims large enough to get 0.0000".
Perfect rotors were out of spec brand new........you should measure how imperfect some rotors are brand new out of the box .........some are worse than 0.006" especially rears [shipping? bad QC? just junky].
As brand new a Q could full brake from 100 mph without a hint of vibration not a quiver, but after 3,000 miles it was never the same, ever..........because the dealers just did the minimal in response to compliants.
Such a problem that 4 TSB were written and 8 pages were devoted to testing/fixes in the 94 Supplemential training package.
If you cannot meet the spec [with the above] you can use an on the car brake lathe to MISTRUE the installed rotors flat or you can use BrakeAlign Hub Shims [0.003, 0.006, or 0.009"] to compensate for warped hubs.
Since rotors warp progressive the tighter you are to spec [ideally 0.0000000000000000"] the longer it takes to feel the warp.
Each owner's sensitivity varies some come in when 0.004", some wait until they are 0.010-0.015 [experience from when the rotors are trued].
I can feel the factory spec 0.0028" as an annoying skip [every rotation] in braking power long before the steering wheel begins to vibrate or the pedal pulsates. Therefore I try to get my installed rotors below 0.001" with shims........seems to extend the time between turns from 5,000 miles to closer to 10,000 miles.
Most owners have so many other vibrations [tires/worn rubber bushings and mounts, etc] that they never feel the brakes till the end.
The problem with drilled or slotted rotors is the on the car lathe is not rigid enough to deal with the holes and skips so that option is OUT.
Because of the precision in measuring 0.001" 4 times in 5 different hole stud locations [all lug nuts must be tightened to spec] , then picking the best match up it adds at least 30 minutes to each wheel...............at T3 we charge an extra $45 per wheel to index rotors.
It is a wash [financially], reture rotors every 5,000 miles or spend the EXTRA time once and get 10,000 miles or become NUMB to the problem.
I went so far as to replace 2 of the worst hubs and wheel bearings as I couldn't find shims large enough to get 0.0000".
Perfect rotors were out of spec brand new........you should measure how imperfect some rotors are brand new out of the box .........some are worse than 0.006" especially rears [shipping? bad QC? just junky].
As brand new a Q could full brake from 100 mph without a hint of vibration not a quiver, but after 3,000 miles it was never the same, ever..........because the dealers just did the minimal in response to compliants.
-
pimpingurz
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2003 2:05 pm
check out this site for parts: disc, pads n brake sensors. it might help out.
http://buyasianparts.com/:ylsuper
http://buyasianparts.com/:ylsuper
Well, tomorrow is the day. We'll see what the dealer has to say/recommend. "Brake Pads Worn" message has been off and on for almost a week now. After reading a few posts, I took it up to 60ish and applied ALOT of brake pressure. Not a panic stop but close (no cars within sight behind or in front). Other than a bump I felt when almost to a stop, no pulsing, shaking, not even a wiggle. I feel pretty good, but that call from the service man after lunch will tell the tale.
Kind of wondering if the way I was milking the last set of brakes on the old Honda has turned me into a better braker.
Fingers crossed and left foot on the foot rest.
Kind of wondering if the way I was milking the last set of brakes on the old Honda has turned me into a better braker.
Fingers crossed and left foot on the foot rest.
-
autotech43
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:14 pm
Q-45 tech nailed that issue to a T slaughter. I have a few friends that are techs at some of the Nissan stores, and we were discussing the same issue, and they remembered when Nissan had the severe brake vibration problem on some of the early 90 model 300ZX's, it was so bad that on certain occasions, they would ship the dealer the hubs and rotors already indexed as Q-45 was stating to eliminate the vibration. But as Q-45 was stating, wheel torque is very important when reinstalling the wheels. Myself and all my co-workers at our service department use torque sticks on every vehicle. You would be surprised when using an impact wrench on how much torque is being applied to the wheel studs with just the slightest hammer effect of impact wrenches.I personally think it should be a requirement at service departments for the techs to use torques sticks, if not those, use a torque wrench and torque the wheels to specs.Excellent information Q-45!
:ylsuper
:ylsuper
-
Jeff Williams
- Posts: 3394
- Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 4:17 am
- Car: 1994 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti I30t
2004 Infiniti M45
71, 72, 73, 82 & 2000 Corvettes - Contact:
Great thread.
I did the "shade tree" replacement about 20,000 miles ago front and back on my '94Q. I bought the front pads from Advance Auto Parts, and the back form a local parts place about 2 weeks later. The pads I bought for the front, had the sensors inlcuded, but the back didn't. The tire place that rotates my tires, uses impact wrenches, and I bet that is the cause of my new vibration. I seldom use brakes, and they usually last 60,000 to 100,000 miles.
The brake job is no harder than a Honda.
Its amazing that the front and rear wore out at the same time. Just another testimony to the balance of the Q.
I did the "shade tree" replacement about 20,000 miles ago front and back on my '94Q. I bought the front pads from Advance Auto Parts, and the back form a local parts place about 2 weeks later. The pads I bought for the front, had the sensors inlcuded, but the back didn't. The tire place that rotates my tires, uses impact wrenches, and I bet that is the cause of my new vibration. I seldom use brakes, and they usually last 60,000 to 100,000 miles.
The brake job is no harder than a Honda.
Its amazing that the front and rear wore out at the same time. Just another testimony to the balance of the Q.
-
szh
- Posts: 15932
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Rex wrote:Well, tomorrow is the day. We'll see what the dealer has to say/recommend. "Brake Pads Worn" message has been off and on for almost a week now. After reading a few posts, I took it up to 60ish and applied ALOT of brake pressure. Not a panic stop but close (no cars within sight behind or in front). Other than a bump I felt when almost to a stop, no pulsing, shaking, not even a wiggle. I feel pretty good, but that call from the service man after lunch will tell the tale.
So, how did the visit go?
Z
I was searching as the message is back, figuring it's the rears this time, as I'd feel horrible if the fronts went again in <8k. I'm gonna call tomorrow and see how long the wait is. I may just get them and the o2 sensors and take a day off to get it all "done".
If I recall the front pads and truing of rotors was about $200 last time. Not bad considering I got to spend the day tooling around in a G35.
.
If I recall the front pads and truing of rotors was about $200 last time. Not bad considering I got to spend the day tooling around in a G35.
.
Thats a bit much.
Pads with sensors are $35-$60. Rotors are $45-$75 each. The rotors are easy pop-offs.
My regular shop where I used to live quoted $80 labor to replace all four pads and turn all four rotors -- I bring in my own parts.
The sensors didnt even come on with my last set of OEM pads/sensors. I finally said **** it, and cut the sensor wire. Im perceptive enough to be able to hear/feel pad wear. The only annoyance is that the display always says the pads are worn.
-Jesda
Pads with sensors are $35-$60. Rotors are $45-$75 each. The rotors are easy pop-offs.
My regular shop where I used to live quoted $80 labor to replace all four pads and turn all four rotors -- I bring in my own parts.
The sensors didnt even come on with my last set of OEM pads/sensors. I finally said **** it, and cut the sensor wire. Im perceptive enough to be able to hear/feel pad wear. The only annoyance is that the display always says the pads are worn.
-Jesda
-
Q451990
- Moderator
- Posts: 11030
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
Jesda wrote: I finally said **** it, and cut the sensor wire. Im perceptive enough to be able to hear/feel pad wear. The only annoyance is that the display always says the pads are worn.
Which side of the connector did you cut? Hopefully just the sensor wires on the sensor side (and didn't cut the female connector off of the harness) in case you want to use the sensor system again in the future. In any case just strip back the wires and twist them together. That will complete the circuit (as if a good sensor is in the circuit) - then you'll get your trip meters back and won't have that annoying message that won't dim with the rest of the dash at night.
Heath