Brakes stall my car

[dudewtf]

so this is a random event. My car was fine then the next day the idle was acting weird every time i would use the brake from any speed to make a complete stop.

then the idle started acting funny on its own getting dangerously low with the engine sputtering then it would stabilize itself with the RPMs still low but with less engine stutter.

As all this is happening the car sounds like s*** in the lower RPMs and i mean it sounds like s*** in the safe idle RPMs like total loss of power as well. it sounds like it doesn't want to run but the ecu is doing all it can to make it run and stabilize. almost like air restriction in the lower RPMs

THEN i noticed this a few days later with the car warmed up or cold that if i pump the brake pedal my my RPMs would drop danger low and ALMOST stall the car. key word ALMOST. no matter how hard i pumped the braked i couldnt get the car to die, the RPMs would just drop just below the first line and the ECU and MAF kept trying to keep the engine alive and succeeded.
HERE IS A VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfh27XB1WFM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym6AnQYbpwE

this video here is when it first started having idle issues.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7PhhN57oy8

here is a reference of the sound it makes now. if you listen carefully with headphones you can hear the f*** up sound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-9nGJk4bCA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxIKvJEhzBU




WHAT IVE DONE:
inspected and cleaned MAF(i also unpluged the MAF and started the car in limp mode but it still was f*** up so i know the MAF isnt the problem)
Inspected and cleaned Air Filter
Inspected for vacuum leaks found non but do hear a odd hiss from some where i cant pinpoint
Inspected most connection of relevance only to find no corrosion.
Inspected fuel injectors with the screwdriver trick with all ticking(some didnt tick as hard as others but still worked)
Inspected cylinder with red liquid in it to find the hoses concted were really lose and leaking o i tightened them. i dont know what it is but it has a black cap with a stubby white dipstick and a white plastic filter?
Power balance test and all coils work

the odd thing is the brakes stall the car almost


all help is appreciated!!! gimme all you got, thanks guys

[dudewtf]

oh and on another note the care drives perfectly fine with no power loss, freeway or street. its just the idle that is all f*** up.

[marty1mc]

Here is a link with tons of info on erratic idle. http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html

[dudewtf]

yeah ive used this site before because ive had this problem before and read all these articles which did not help my problem, solved the prob myself.

however i am stumped on this and need a educated guess/second opinion. mainly i dont have time or money to d!ck around and take my engine apart unless i know whats wrong already.

also non of those articles explain the brake stall issue. my guess is a bad or failing alternator ?? would that cause it? the ECU still isnt popping out any codes, 55.

also would a failed 02 sensor cause your car to run like s***/bad idle?

i really dont want to take my car to a mechanic because i know for a fact they'll see the Z and f*** dollar signs will start rolling in their eyes. they wanted to charge me 1k for a coil job,crazy f***. did it myself.

[marty1mc]

I doubt a bad alternator would do it, unless your battery is shot. Test the alternator yourself by doing this: start the car, run at 1500 rpm, check the voltage and it should be at 13.2v to 15v. If that is ok, turn on all of your accessories (heater fan, lights, etc), try the procedure again. If the voltage stays in range, then your alternator is fine.

Also, check your TPS. But, this sounds more like a vacuum leak than anything.

[dudewtf]

yeah i wish i had a mdm 100 or a consult but those are around 500 bucks, damn rip off.

i took a v meter to the battery while she was idling kept getting -2.1 - -5.4 mV i cant get a V reading with this damn radio shack meter. also i put new coils MAF and vac lines in about 5 months ago.

would an exhaust leak do this if it was right on or next to exhaust manifold or would clogged cats do this? reason be even in the 800 rpm range the exhaust sounds like s*** mainly near the manifold or cats.

i think you're on the right track with a vac leak of some sort but would this cause the car to stall when the brakes are pumped?

i also checked the tps by unplugging the grey plug and the check engine light came on and the car would not shift out of first gear and the throttle would almost stall the car or lagg the rpms. so i guess thats in working order.

anyone wanna lend me their consult?

[marty1mc]

It could also be a leaky brake booster.

On the DVM, make sure you are on DC Volts (straight line, not a wavy one) and the probes (some have separate plug-in holes) are plugged in for voltage, not current or ohms (resistance). Set the meter to 12v range or 20v if you don't have 12. Make sure you have red to +, black to -, then test. Since you are reporting - voltage readings, you probably have it reversed. You probably know all of the above, just stating it for clarity.

[J30tChumpCar]

+ 10 on the brake booster

Disconnect/plug the vacuum line to the booster and try to operate the car with un-boosted brakes, if everything runs normal you have found the fault.