Brakes next on the list...

[ceningolmo]

Wow have I read a lot of threads about brakes in the last couple of days. Since brakes are the next project on my list, I want to make sure I am getting all the details.

First... I have ruled out the z32 conversion. I did this only because my understanding was that I would require larger wheels than the stock 15" I have. And, I don't have the funds to do all 4 wheels, tires, calipers, rotors, and pads at the same time. Plus, I am still planning to use my stock 15's as winter wheels/tires. I will replace them with something else in the spring, but don't want to have to switch brakes every season.

I think I am just going to stick with OEM equivelant pads and rotors. Everyone seems to like Brembo for the rotors, so I am going with those. But, I have heard prices ranging from $27 up through $60 for brembo rotors. Is this because of a large price difference between rotors for the Y33 vs. G50? Tirerack.com has the Brembo OEM equivelant rotors for about $240 for all 4 wheels on G50. Is this the cheapest? Someone mentioned in the 'other' brake thread that NOPI had them for cheaper. Same parts appear to be about $200 for all 4 wheels. Any reason I shouldn't order from them?

As far as pads go, sounds like everyone prefers OEM. I can get those from Joe in Scottsdale. Is there any reason I should get something other than the stock pads?

[Jeff Williams]

I bought the cheapest slotted and drilled rotors for Layla I could find on eBay. I cracked the rear, due to a sticking caliper pin (BE SURE TO GET CALIPER GREASE AND CLEAN THOSE PINS & RE-GREASE THEM!). The fronts have NEVER warped and are fairly easy on the pads.

When I had factory rotors on the front, I have to have them re-surfaced every 15,000 to 20,000 miles. Lola needs another turn. I have 2 sets of rotors, and keep a cleanly turned set in the garage for a quick swap when I start to feel the vibration.

The I30t needs it's rotors re-surfaced already, after 15,000 miles.

My point is, If you can cahnge them yourself, get the cheapest you can find & expect to have them turned every year. If you are paying for it t obe done, buy the best rotors you can find. You will spend more on labor than parts to have them turned or replaced.

My $0.02

[elwesso]

ross you could always go with some spacers (1/2in) and some upgraded studs.. wouldnt cost more than like $120 for those parts.... yu could run the Z32s that way, but you probably dont need ot... its proabbly more hassle than id recommend you deal with... however note that my brake setup wsa cheaper than a full set of pads+rotors+lines from joe.

go with stocker pads..... Also dont go with drilled rotors because they cannot be turned......

[ceningolmo]

I think the OEM Brembo replacements I have seen are a vented (but not drilled or slotted?) set for fronts and solid, not vented, drilled, or slotted, in the rear.

Since I don't drive too hard and I am just looking for something reliable and easy to replace every so often, I assumed the OEM replacement would do the job.

Everyone (or nearly everyone) likes the OEM pads...and they aren't too expensive. I think if I go through NOPI for the Brembo rotors and through Scottsdales for the pads I can get all the parts for about $320.

Are there any other "must have" parts while I am doing the job. I will, of course, inspect bearings and other miscellaneous stuff while I have the brakes off. But, is there anything else I NEED when I order these parts?

[elwesso]

Clean all the rust off the hubs..... and lube em up good.....

[Jeff Williams]

Nothing you "need", but stainless steel lines and DOT4 fluid REALLY makes the pedal firm.

[ceningolmo]

DOT 4 fluid? Can I pick this up at the local Autozone?

Stainless steel lines... what would be the least expensive source on these?

[Rex]

Haven't read all posts regarding your brakes, but what if anything makes you think the rotors need replacing?

If you're doing the work, make sure you clean the calipers and grease the pins.

[ceningolmo]

Wes told me the rotors are warped. And, Wes' opinion is good enough for me.

[Rex]

Wes told me the rotors are warped. And, Wes' opinion is good enough for me.

Fair enough. If you're looking to go non-OEM, ask why

Do you need better braking?Do you need quicker cooling?Do you need cheaper rotors?

Cause you won't be able to find all 3. I'd suggest OEM, not OEM-like or "to OEM spec", becareful not to save ~$5 apiece on rotors that last 1/2 as long, or need turning twice as often.

[ceningolmo]

Everyone seems to like the Brembo...and, based on the threads I have read, it sounds like they are OEM or better performance. And, they are about $20 cheaper per rotor than OEM rotors from Scottsdale.

I don't need anything that exceeds OEM performance... I don't drive hard enough to warrant anything beyond the already good stock performance. But, if I can get the same or better performance for less money... well... I am working with a budget here!

[Rex]

Everyone seems to like the Brembo...and, based on the threads I have read, it sounds like they are OEM or better performance. And, they are about $20 cheaper per rotor than OEM rotors from Scottsdale.

I don't need anything that exceeds OEM performance... I don't drive hard enough to warrant anything beyond the already good stock performance. But, if I can get the same or better performance for less money... well... I am working with a budget here!

True if you can match the life/performance of OEM, for less $$, it's the right thing to do. Might doa search for different brand names of rotors as in post text by Q45Tech.

[DrewQ45]

DOT 4 fluid? Can I pick this up at the local Autozone?

Stainless steel lines... what would be the least expensive source on these?

Cheapest place for the lines is... http://www.competitionwarehous...d=563 ...you can pick em up for $89.00

Try irotors.com for rotors. They are also the cheapest around but be forewarned, they know how to screw up an order. First time I ordered from them, they never even shipped the product.

Hope this helps... Drew....

[elwesso]

If you go with I rotors, dont get the drilled... Cheap+drilled=disaster...

The key is to make sure they weigh similar to OEM...

I have brembo blanks on my Q and im happy!

[Rex]

If you go with I rotors, dont get the drilled... Cheap+drilled=disaster...

The key is to make sure they weigh similar to OEM...

I have brembo blanks on my Q and im happy!

But as Q45Tech has said, it's not just weight, but the quality of the ore to produce them for truely be the same.

[Falkdesigns]

Brembo OE rotors are popular because of what they're made of, and QC. I went with Wagner Thermoquiet pads (one of the only brake industry parts to receive an award for innovation, quality, quietness and performance that meets or exceeds OE -the shims are pre-bonded to the pad, and the pad material is not glued on, but pulled through- something like that) and flushed it with Valvoline Synpower fluid (480 degree boiling temp). So far, it's incredibly smooth, totally silent, and really bites when you push.

ninja edit: Stainless brake lines are a waste of time, unless you plan to race the car. And even then, they don't improve braking performance, that's not what their intended for, they improve pedal feel.

[RobertsnewQ]

And stainless lines have a big drawback for street use: they wear from the dirt that gets under the braid and MUST Be replaced frequently. I've also had cut-price aftermarket stainless lines blow apart at the fittings (lucky for me it was in the driveway).

I've used them on a bunch of project cars and I probably will use them again, but I replace them yearly. Use re-useable fittings and you can even get your local hydraulic place to re-hose them for you.

Have you thought about Y32/Y33 brakes? Large (290mm) like R32 skyline but narrow like the G50 and have the same calipers as the G50. I'm not sure, but I suspect 15" wheels will clear. All you need are Y33 rotors and caliper brackets.

[chinaonnitrous]

In that aspect, some lines actually come with heatshrink tubing around them to protect from dirt . You can add these as well buy heat shrink, cut, slip, and heat to fit.

As far as blowing at the fittings...you get what you pay for right?

[Rex]

Also, I would only consider upgrading the lines if I was replacing them. Ffew on here really drive their Q hard enough to justify upgrading just for the sake of upgrading, but it's their money, not mine .

[DrewQ45]

Also, I would only consider upgrading the lines if I was replacing them. Ffew on here really drive their Q hard enough to justify upgrading just for the sake of upgrading, but it's their money, not mine .

zerothread?id=110515

This link has some great pics of the braided lines along with rotors.

zerothread?id=114717
Modified by DrewQ45 at 4:18 PM 11/22/2005

[elwesso]

Also, I would only consider upgrading the lines if I was replacing them. Ffew on here really drive their Q hard enough to justify upgrading just for the sake of upgrading, but it's their money, not mine .

whatchu talkin bout!

[Rex]

whatchu talkin bout!

Just the plain and simple truth.

[elwesso]

Indeed. I upgrade stuff because I get bored with it... Besides, having a stock Q is really no fun in my eyes. especially since mine isnt real clean (its not bad looking, just normal wear and tear for 12 years + 123,000 miles)

[squeefoo]

If memory serves me correctly the orig. Q 90-93 rotors wiegh 17 LBS (28mm)

I weighed my now slightly warped x-drilled/slotted I-rotors at 15... not enough meat to absorb the heat long enough = WARP...and that's with the thicker 300ZX (32mm)rotors = OOPS

Rotor shopping soon

[elwesso]

30mm wide, squee

BTW... I got my spacers in today.... Theyre not the kind i was thinking of, they are H/R and they came with the longer studs.... putting them in on friday.

[squeefoo]

Cool

H/R ?? How much ?? I've got about $110.00 in mine. Nismo Studs @ $80 !!

[elwesso]

Got mine for 126 shipped, but 26 of that was 2nd day air shipping.... Mine included the 60mm studs....