Dude thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I have already popped off the wheels and did some test by applying brake pressure and being sure that the caliper would release afterwards, and it does. But driving it is a whole different story, the pedal will start getting harder and harder, and the car will start feeling slower and slower, then bam the car will just lock up!! It is very weird.mrzabala wrote:hmm had problems with other cars. Just a basic step by step. -block the wheels-Jack it(make sure you do it right). -Make sure its safe with jack stands. -Remove the wheel.-hopefully you have a c lamp? If not, a clamp will probably work. Or go buy one.-Remove your caliper(straight foward for you I hope)And Im pretty sure your pads are pressed in.-Use your c clamp and put one side on the caliper and one side on the pad. Then clamp it so that it pushes the pads back to its spot when no brake is applied. Do this for all 4 sides. Now just go in reverse and install everything back. and it should solve your problem.If not than its either your fluids or brake ylinder/booster. But I've havent had time to go into it myself. Good luck and I hope you get it fixed. Make sure you dont drive it too far until your sure its okay. Wouldnt want you to lose brakes and crash or get it stucked and get reared.
Dude thanks for the info, I never thought of a kink being in a hardline. I am almost positive that it is at least both front Brakes since they will be hotter than hell and will sizzle when I spit on them to see for hotness. The back ones seem to be locking up also, but I am only 80% sure, but they seem to get really hot also.benemorius wrote:Are you certain that all four are locking? Make 100% sure, because that is improbable.
Something like this can be caused by a kink in a hardline. The kink allows pressure from the master cylinder through to the calipers, but won't allow it to release back to the master cylinder. The result is that with each pump of the pedal you are locking more and more pressure into your calipers until they lock up. Opening the bleeder screw releases this pressure, then it starts all over again.
How do you test if the brake booster is going out? I have a suspicious feeling that the booster is holding pressure down on the master since I can let it sit for a few minutes and then pressure will release.180fan wrote:yikes all 4? I'd check the master. A kink in a hardline would result in a pair of them gettin locked up, but not all 4. That'd be somethin up with the master or like you said, the booster holding the pressure on the master. You put grease where the booster meets the master?
When I cleaned the master cylinder I sprayed some brake cleaner in the hole where there was a bunch of flaked paint and dirt to clean off that area. Is there a specific place I need to put grease on the brake booster?180fan wrote:yikes all 4? I'd check the master. A kink in a hardline would result in a pair of them gettin locked up, but not all 4. That'd be somethin up with the master or like you said, the booster holding the pressure on the master. You put grease where the booster meets the master?
Did I damage the seals in the master cylinder while putting brake cleaner into the master cylinder? Are you sure I will have to replace it, or how can I check if it was damaged. Thanks for the info.Q45tech wrote:AH! Brake Cleaner inside where it's not supposed to be............secure a brand new master cylinder. I knew this sounded familiar happens frequently when untrained put PS or other liquids in Master cylinder refill or somehow plenum cleaning solvents get sucked into vacuum booster and migrate.
Self-mortification with a leather flail is sometimes useful.
Man you had me ****eing my pants:). I believe it is ok in small doses. The only reason they advise against it is the Petroleum base drying out the seals..Q45tech wrote:I don't know for sure just reporting historical facts, never seen anyone use spray brake cleaner inside a brake system.
Why yes - yes it is. Unless your pedal is sticking... but it would have to be really damn sticky to do that.2tirefire wrote:Is that a clear indication of the brake booster not working and I need a new one?
No indeed.2tirefire wrote:Also I see that there is a check valve of sometype between the engine and the brake booster line, could that be broken and keeping the brake booster shut?
that was the culprit?dwnshfter wrote:was my check valve on the brake booster.
I got the same problem as you have with my 2005 Hyundai Elantra! I changed the master cylinder and caliper with the dealer and firestone, but the problem comes again after two months drive...I take the car to firestone and dealer again and they check there is nothing wrong with the parts. The car drives normal in local, but if I drive on the highway, the brakes pedal becomes harder, and the car drags and can not drive in high gear.2tirefire wrote:I need some help from the NICO members to get my car back up and running. Here is the problem I am experiencing, followed by what I have done to try to correct it.
About 2 weeks ago I was driving down the road as normal and my brakes started to start dragging, then another mile all four of them locked up completely? The pedal got very, very stiff and I could hardly move it off the road. I let it cool down and then popped the front bleeders and all was normal again, till I tried to use the brakes again, then the same thing happened and I had to repeat the above process.
I just replaced the Brake Master Cylinder thinking that may have been the problem with an OEM one, not a cheap auto store replacement. I bled all of the brakes and did a full fluid flush and replaced with all new fluid. Everything seemed dandy until I got driving for about five minutes, then the brakes started to drag, and then all for of them locked up again...I am pissed now. I did noticed that once I let it sit for a moment and pump the brakes while the car was off, it did release some pressure from the calipers so I could roll it home, not using the brake pedal only the Ebrake.
Could someone please give me some advice on what I need to do to solve this problem? I have already replaced the 2 front calipers since they were shot when I bought the car, and the pads are brand new on all 4 corners. I just can't think of why all of my brakes will start dragging simultaneously then they will just lock and need to be manually bled to release pressure, or continuous pumping when the car is off to release a bit of pressure. As you can tell this is not safe.
Thanks in advance.