Brakes, do it yourself or take it in?

Post by **fungusmungus05** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 2:25 pm

Who did your new brakes? Mine have been squeeling like a pig and it's very annoying and don't need for it to escalade into something worse. Is it easier and cheaper to do it at home or just take it in into a reputable brake shop? I would guess the dealer would charge an arm and a leg. Also, what pads are you guys using to reduce the noise? OEM? AM?

Thanks,

Post by **WhiteyClay** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 4:28 pm

Do It At Home. It takes longer to take the wheel off then change the pads.Its just one bold on a caliper you got to take out and open caliper, take old bads out, push cylinder in put new pads in, close caliper, put the bolt in and ure setI use Hawk HPS. Not a squeel coming out of them.I use same brand on a audi a4 and toyota camry.great and affordable.

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 5:59 pm

Post by **Beancooker** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 6:07 pm

WhiteyClay wrote:Do It At Home. It takes longer to take the wheel off then change the pads.Its just one bold on a caliper you got to take out and open caliper, take old bads out, push cylinder in put new pads in, close caliper, put the bolt in and ure setI use Hawk HPS. Not a squeel coming out of them.I use same brand on a audi a4 and toyota camry.great and affordable.

You are correct, except, that if you do not open the bleeder valve while pushing in the piston, you take a pretty good risk on damaging the piston and it's seals.

You should also bleed the brakes, to remove any dirty fluid that will be building up in the caliper.

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 2:12 am

Good point!!Would he not just need to take the cap off the master cylinder???That's what I do on other cars. Also, usually take a little fluid out using a paper towel to soak up some.

Post by **G_whizz** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 4:27 am

Here ya go!

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=140754

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:13 am

Please, if you don't know how to do it than take it to somewhere. Find a cheap place and get it done. You can save that money for sure if you do it but what if screw it up and hit somebody. Are you sure you save? Do you know if your rotor needs to be changed or resurface it? Most of the time when it is "squeeling like a pig" you already hitting hard your rotor.

Please do yourself (and others on the road) a favor Get somebody who knows how to do it or take it somewhere.

zozo

Post by **Beancooker** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 7:38 am

The tech article is good, but I still am a firm believer that the bleeder valve needs to be opened when pushing back the piston. If it is not, you are pushing the dirtiest brake fluid (that which is in the caliper) back into the lines. Just as well, wether or not the cap is on, there is still pressure in the lines. The cap doesn't provide the pressure. It simply keeps the fluid from spilling. The master cylinder/brake booster is where the pressure is supplied, and that is downstream of the cap. Trust me, you should open the bleeder valve.

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 10:41 am

Thanks for the clarification. I'm not a mechanic, I just play one on TV.

Always up for learning a little more.

Post by **fungusmungus05** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 12:37 pm

I had them inspeceted and they told me the pads are not that bad, it's the rotors are the ones that are bad. The quote was ridiculous though.

Where is this bleeder valve?

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:08 pm

Not sure where it is on a G, but be sure you know how to bleed them before you start.

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:11 pm

That's what I was talking about. You have to check if there is enough meat on it. The thickness of the rotors. It might be ok to save it with resurface the rotor. That's basicaly they cutting the bad surface till it is nice and smooth. If there is enough material on it to cut of course. I don't really know your situation but if somebody else doing it for you it would cost money. Who knows how long it will last. If you planning to keep your car for a longer period of time you should consider to by a set of new. You maybe good with the rear ones. Check out websites,ebay, etc search compare prices agains the resurface prices.

That's just my opinion.

zozo

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:22 pm

OH WHAT DO YOU KNOW!!!!just kidding! Just wanted to get your attention since your on right now

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 4:01 pm

Looks like I am going to be up for a while. I'll watch UFC tonight.

Zozo

Post by **WhiteyClay** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:04 pm

Never heard of bleeding the brake system everytime you do a brake change... but then again I might be wrong...i dont mind being corrected

Post by **fungusmungus05** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:14 pm

What pads are you guys using? I read in some threads where the Hawk are a tad bit noisier. Just looking for some quiet ones. Metallic? Ceramic?

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:19 pm

I can tell by his post, ZOZO is a good guy. He can take some poking.

I don't normally bleed the brakes every time I change them either, but I'm sure it's a good thing to do. Just like flushing your transmission instead of draining and refilling.

Post by **WhiteyClay** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:22 pm

Ceramic, would be quieter and would cost a bit more.

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:15 pm

Thanks bro, I feel the same when I read your posts.

I always bleed my brakes. I feel safer if I do it. I mean most of the time you can get away without it if you really know what your doing. Also Beancooker got the point with taking the garbage out of the system. We can't argue with that.

Fungusmungus answering your question is you can go either of one you won't regret it. The ceramic would do a better job if you bake heavier and frquentlier(race style driving, like me) but it will hurt you rotor more. There are many pros and cons. Believe me you can go with either one.

UFC update if any of you interested in it. George St. Pierre beat Koschek.

zozo

Post by **fungusmungus05** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:00 am

will ceramic pads damage the oem rotors? Read a article where they say to check if the oem rotors will handle the ceramic pads? I guess my question is, will the rotors wear a lot faster with ceramic vs the semi-metallic?

Thanks,

Post by **Radiorace29** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:24 am

Is this the same with the brembo setup and is thier any other good replacement pads for the Brembo

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 3:28 pm

It will wear it down faster but not significantly. It depends a lot from your braking technic.

Zozo

Post by **fungusmungus05** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 5:19 pm

Thanks, I have all of my answers I was looking for.

Post by **zozoka1212** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 5:19 pm

zozo

Post by **Nadia** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:16 pm

If you get aftermarket pads and rotors you lose some of the braking power(which is a good thing for a lot of people). I got used to the grabby brakes and may go back to OEM rotors next time.

Post by **james t kirk** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:18 pm

beancooker wrote:
You are correct, except, that if you do not open the bleeder valve while pushing in the piston, you take a pretty good risk on damaging the piston and it's seals.

You should also bleed the brakes, to remove any dirty fluid that will be building up in the caliper.

Sorry, I respectfully disagree with this post.

I have the G35 Service manuals and they most definitely do not call for this operation.

The piston has to be pushed back in with a C clamp or the like. If this damages the seals then so be it, the bore in the caliper is corroded.

The hydraulic system is a sealed system and the brake fluid in the caliper should not be dirty. What happens is that the brake fluid is hydroscopic and therefore absorbs moisture, usually at the master cylinder where there is a small vent designed to allow air into the master to compensate for the lowering of the brake oil as the pads wear.

Changing the brake fluid is all well and good to remove any moisture laden hydrauic oil, but you do NOT need to do this when changing pads.

And whatever you do, don't get the brake fluid on the paint work as it is the best paint stripper known to man kind.

OK, I am reading the Service Manual from Infiniti, Page BR-26, nowhere does it say to crack the bleeder open whilst doing front brake pads. In fact, it tells you to monitor the brake fluid whilst pushing the piston home because the brake fluid will return to the MC and may overflow if you topped up the brake fluid at some point.

Modified by james t kirk at 5:31 PM 8/28/2007

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:27 pm

hmmmm....sounds like the way I did my other cars. Use a C clamp against the old pad and push the piston back in.

Post by **drcook** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 4:34 am

I am not a mechanic by any stretch, though do like fixing things. That being said, when my brakes started squeaking ('04 g35 sedan), I spoke w/a friend of mine who does work on his own car.

I called a couple of dealerships and got quotes ranging from 275-350. I bought pads at autozone for about 75 (cermaic, which were slightly more expensive than semi-metallic, but quieter I'm told).

I printed out the relevant pages from an o/l infinity service manual, and went through w/my buddy. He did the first wheel, showing me what he was doing. I did the other wheels. It was pretty easy. The biggest pain we came across was when his neighbor's sprinklers went on and we got wet.

The car still stops, the brakes don't squeak, and I saved 200! Very cool!

Post by **grillo** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:03 pm

i just took my tires off to paint the caliper's the brakes look verry easy to change just like any other car.. By the way i picked up a can of heat paint from auto zone called universal gold looks just like the upgrade brakes took bout an hour to do all 4 ill put pics up tomorrow..

Post by **lmeier** » Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:26 pm

We now have 23,500 miles on the car. Had our brakes replaced 3 times since we bought the car new, in 05. Each time the Infinity dealer covered the cost. Defective brakes are warranteed for 4 years. Squealing brakes are defective. Abnormal and uneven wear is abnormal for a luxury car. Get it???In the process of writing Customer Affairs to get warranty extended at Infintiy Cost.

LMeier2004 G35

Brakes, do it yourself or take it in?

Brakes, do it yourself or take it in?

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (WhiteyClay)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (WhiteyClay)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (beancooker)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (G_whizz)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (beancooker)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (zozoka1212)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (zozoka1212)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (SVTCOBRA)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (beancooker)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (zozoka1212)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (WhiteyClay)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (SVTCOBRA)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (zozoka1212)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (zozoka1212)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (beancooker)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (james t kirk)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (fungusmungus05)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (SVTCOBRA)

Re: Brakes, do it yourself or take it in? (grillo)

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