Brakes and tires

[crisfer]

my 2010 G37 sedans just hi 3oK! my tires are at 4/32 does that mean about 25% tread life left? my brakes are 5 mm front and back, what are oem pads when new 11 mm in front and 9 mm in back doe anybody know? when do you need to replace the pads at 3 or 2 mm? I am going to replace the oem Goodyear tires, I want to replace with grand touring tires Michelin or pirilies any suggestions in grand touring tires?

[larsG35]

The "legal" obligation to replace tires is at 2/32" left. However, by this time tires lose much of their ability to provide good road contact in heavy rain at highway speeds. Many tire shops will recommend that you consider new tires at 4/32", but obviously they stand to make good money when they convince people to buy new tires more often. It's really up to you, but if I notice I have about 3/32" left of tread, I am actively looking to get new tires.

Brakes are probably even more of a hazy territory on when to get new ones. As long as you don't burn through your whole pad, you should be fine and avoid rotor damage, but sometimes it is difficult to predict how much longer pads will last. With 5mm you really should be fine for a while (assuming normal driving habits). I tend to replace in the 2-1 mm range. I would estimate that I use about
1 mm of brake pad per 1,000 miles. I have somewhat aggressive driving habits, but I also use a fair amount of proper engine braking because I have a manual.

Hope that helps a little,
Lars

[Starter]

I'd suggest you go on the Tire Rack web site to research tires even if you don't wind up buying there. When you narrow the selection down to a couple DO read the reviews for a better picture.

[Checkered Flag]

I highly recommend newest version of Michelin Pilot Sports. Amazing rain tires, probably the best. Pricewise I hope you went 17"

[elwesso]

I wouldn't put off brakes longer than you need to. Obviously with that amount of wear, it's not critical that you replace them IMMEDIATELY, but I wouldn't wait. Remember, even an extra foot of stopping distance could mean the difference of avoiding an accident or playing bumper cars with another motorist..

Where are you located? That will help in a recommendation on tires. There are lots of good tires out there right now, for a "performance oriented" all season tire, I really like the continental DWS's. I had them on another car, they were incredibly quiet and smooth, and had excellent dry and wet traction, and they were killer in the snow for an all season tire (obviously not as good as a true winter tire).

Remember, tires are the only thing that touches the car and the road at the same time. Do NOT cheap out on tires!

[Starter]

I wouldn't put off brakes longer than you need to. Obviously with that amount of wear, it's not critical that you replace them IMMEDIATELY, but I wouldn't wait. Remember, even an extra foot of stopping distance could mean the difference of avoiding an accident or playing bumper cars with another motorist..

Where are you located? That will help in a recommendation on tires. There are lots of good tires out there right now, for a "performance oriented" all season tire, I really like the continental DWS's. I had them on another car, they were incredibly quiet and smooth, and had excellent dry and wet traction, and they were killer in the snow for an all season tire (obviously not as good as a true winter tire).

Remember, tires are the only thing that touches the car and the road at the same time. Do NOT cheap out on tires!

Umm, how much pad is left, assuming there is still pad, has zero to do with stopping distance. You either have pads or you don't.

Are you going to do the brake job yourself? If not here's a couple of things to keep in mind. Many shops will try and sell you, in addition to changing the pads, either turning the rotors or replacing them. So long as the rotors are not badly warped you DO NOT need to replace them. Most rotors can last through two or three sets of pads before needing replacement. In most cases, again assuming the rotors aren't badly warped or grooved, you don't even need to turn them. The new pads will very quickly wear to match the rotors. The small difference in the life of the new pads is way more than offset by the cost in labor of removing the rotors and turning them. Just adjust your braking distance for the first one or two hundred miles while they wear in.

[elwesso]

Umm, how much pad is left, assuming there is still pad, has zero to do with stopping distance. You either have pads or you don't.

Are you going to do the brake job yourself? If not here's a couple of things to keep in mind. Many shops will try and sell you, in addition to changing the pads, either turning the rotors or replacing them. So long as the rotors are not badly warped you DO NOT need to replace them. Most rotors can last through two or three sets of pads before needing replacement. In most cases, again assuming the rotors aren't badly warped or grooved, you don't even need to turn them. The new pads will very quickly wear to match the rotors. The small difference in the life of the new pads is way more than offset by the cost in labor of removing the rotors and turning them. Just adjust your braking distance for the first one or two hundred miles while they wear in.

While you're right about stopping distance, I still wouldn't put it off. My point is things like brakes shouldn't be compromised since it's directly related to safety.

Normally whenever I do brake pads myself I take the rotors to get turned, usually places like Advance Auto or something like that charge like $8/each to turn them, and can have them done in a couple hours.

[crisfer]

I wouldn't put off brakes longer than you need to. Obviously with that amount of wear, it's not critical that you replace them IMMEDIATELY, but I wouldn't wait. Remember, even an extra foot of stopping distance could mean the difference of avoiding an accident or playing bumper cars with another motorist..

Where are you located? That will help in a recommendation on tires. There are lots of good tires out there right now, for a "performance oriented" all season tire, I really like the continental DWS's. I had them on another car, they were incredibly quiet and smooth, and had excellent dry and wet traction, and they were killer in the snow for an all season tire (obviously not as good as a true winter tire).

Remember, tires are the only thing that touches the car and the road at the same time. Do NOT cheap out on tires!

I live in CA I have 4/32 on the stock goodyear tires at 31K but I don't want performance tires looking for grand touring looking at Pirelli Cinturato P7 AS Plus tires . My brakes are at 5mm front and back and I cant replace them myself.

[crisfer]

If tires are at 4/32 is it still worth it paying for rotation? I cant rotate them myself I live in a condo..

[Starter]

If tires are at 4/32 is it still worth it paying for rotation? I cant rotate them myself I live in a condo..

You probably don't have enough wear left to worry about rotating them.

Check the above posts for advice on the brakes. I'll stand by what I said, however it's your money so you should do what you feel comfortable with. Just remember that shops, and especially dealers, make more money the more they sell you - whether you actually need it or not.