brake warpage myth?

[Tgvince]

http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...h.htm

After reading the comments about brakes int he thread on consumer reports...i thought you guys might like this...very interesting.

Terry

[AZhitman]

Good reading - I'll be curious to see what the guru has to say...

[Q45tech]

From the pictiures supplied he hasn't seen the Q brake rotors nor has he measured the runout produced.I like his admonition to change brake fluid every year plus "With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification,......."

Maybe the answer is that the hubs and lugs are not strong enough to remain flat after 60,000 miles of driving/braking.

[Jeff Williams]

Good article.

I can testify to his point about the Shelby Mustang Brakes. My ex-bosses '66 GT-350H had a plaque on the dash that warned the driver about stopping in cold conditions. The cracked fiberglass hood was testimony that his wife got a little close to the garbage truck, one morning.

I had that brake vibration on my Q, when I frist bought it. I have since had both the front and rear pad sesnor alert me to "Worn Brake Pads" (How cool is this!). I replaced the pads, and had the front rotors turned. No more vibration.

I noticed last night, that the front rotors are vibrating again. About 25,000 miles on the new pads & turned rotors.

I think I will try this break-in procedure, when I have thr rotors inspected, and possiby turned (if they are still in spec.). His break-in procedure is a little different from my old one - 120 MPH to 0 MPH as fast as I can. (Just kidding)

By the way, anybody have experience with the slotted & drilled rotors I keep seeing on eBay for $120 (front) & $99 (rear)?:naughty

[fxjackso]

Legend has it that when Hertz ordered the special GT350H cars ans started renting them , customers drove them around the block and then brought them back, thinking there must be something wrong with the brakes.

I asked the EBay seller who made those rotors. Reply was "EMC". I could not find any info using Google. Anyone else heard of this outfit?

[AZhitman]

Is that the seller calling himself "irotors"?

[eQlipse]

Yes, I believe it is!

[szh]

Good article.

By the way, anybody have experience with the slotted & drilled rotors I keep seeing on eBay for $120 (front) & $99 (rear)?:naughty

I bought these IROTOR rotors and have not yet had a chance to have them installed ... I gotta find a good shop in San Jose, or get down to LA to see Daedalus sometime in the future. These are Bradi rotors, drilled and slotted by IROTOR on their cnc machines. Price was right, which is why I figured I would give them a try. $229 plus shipping for all four rotors for a Q is a pretty good deal.

Z

[nisstech]

Having resurfaced thousands of rotors over the years I can say that I belive there are three classes of drivers to who I will call pedal pusher. 1) rides the brakes,that is one foot on the brake and the other on the gas. A dead give away is the cover of the brake pedal is wore. I always try to replace the rotors unless there is a least 5mm or more before min. The closer you get to min. the greater you chance for a come-back. 2) go fast and hit em hard! This drivers rotors almost always a nice shade of blue,(from the heat build up). Also signs of cracking on the pads and rotors. This rotor makes a good door stay or large paper weight, and the customer always get the bill for new rotors and pads. Last but not the least 3). The driver that makes good judement as to his or her stopping distance, uses only enough force on the pedal to stop the car, or in the case of the manual trans uses the clutch to slow down. I can always resurface this rotor and find only taking .002 off of each side is all that is needed. The interval of brake job for this customer is usually 30-45k. So the moral of this story is, a conscious driver not only is a safe driver but will pay less in the long run for rotors and pads.

[Q45tech]

Since the spec is 0.0028" maximum runout your customer must be sensitive indeed!....." I can always resurface this rotor and find only taking .002 off of each side is all that is needed".

I find that I can just begin to feel 0.003" [as measured at the point of outermost pad contact].........must be why Infiniti chose 0.0028" as spec.

"always try to replace the rotors unless there is a least 5mm or more before min"............the rotor spec max wear is 1mm in total or 0.5mm per side? Sure you meant 5mm not 0.5 mm [half worn?].

1mm=0.03937" so there should be 13 cuts less wear or say 6-7-8 cuts possible if one is a perfectionist.