Brake Service. Dealership quotes & prices

Post by **hulk1602** » Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:08 am

Sorry if this has been covered but the search function doesn't seem to be working properly right now.

I just got a quote from Infiniti and thought I'd run this by here.

With labor
$375 per axle for pads and rotors resurfaced
OR
$710 per axle for pads and new rotors

Parts only
$150 each for Rotors
$150 per axle for pads

Does this seem pretty fair? I thought about tackling myself to save a few bucks or getting a quote from Nissan (I'm assuming they have the same parts but could be wrong(?)).

My car is a 2013 M37.

Thanks in advance!

Post by **Ilya** » Wed Apr 10, 2019 1:57 pm

NO WAY. Ask them if you can buy your own parts and provide them.

You can get a kit of rotors and pads for ALL FOUR CORNERS for like $250 on eBay. Many people here run those kits.

Going to Nissan may also work. I had Nissan do my spark plugs for $150 less than Infiniti wanted.

Post by **Larz** » Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:45 pm

Ilya is right! If you use the Brakemotive brand kit, you will get brand new (higher quality) rotors X 4, all new shoes X 4, and necessary hardware X 4 for less than the cost of doing one axle at the dealer. If I remember correctly, my Brakemotive 4-wheel kit costs about $200 and the dealer charged me about $200 for installation. I got BRAND NEW ROTORS and SHOES on all 4 corners for a total of about $400.
Lots of us use this kit. I am on my 3rd kit with absolutely NO issues and amazing performance on dry and wet.
Here is the kit for your car:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Dri ... SwrtFbakwJ

Post by **satown210** » Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:53 pm

Don't expect the dealer or a lot of shops to install your parts. I worked for a lot of shops and we never installed customer parts. Every time we did, it came back and bit us. Customers unhappy with the quality of the parts or the part would break soon after. Example customer complaining of brake pads he provided dust too much and are loud. Customer wants us to put different pads on that he is providing again and wants us to do it for free. Well it's not our pads that are unsatisfactory. Another customer cries about how broke he is and wants us to install a starter he bought. The new starter fails three days later. He wants us to swap in another one. He gets mad when we give him another labor quote. IT WASN"T OUR PART THAT FAILED. Also there are slim profit margins in auto repair so repair shops make money off parts and labor. When you cut the profit off parts the job suddenly is a lot closer to a break even transaction without profit.

Post by **satown210** » Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:57 pm

Also it is extremely dumb to compare prices of doing it yourself vs paying a shop. Are you paying yourself labor? Factoring the cost of uniforms, electricity, water, lease, disposal fees, liability insurance, health insurance, tool allowance, advertising, taxes? That waiting room and coffee and bottles water cost too. As does having a receptionist take your appointment and a service advisor. So no kidding you can do it cheaper yourself.

Post by **reggiebrown40** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:23 am

I just bought a set of rotors and pads from Brakemotive. Total was 161.10 shipped. Hulk1602, you could probably do the work yourself if you are somewhat handy and have the tools and work area to do it. Ilya's how-to can be found here: howto-change-m37-m56-q70-y51-brakes-fro ... 12727.html

OEM parts are ridiculous. I was quoted 800 dollars for a rear caliper once. I ended up buying a refurbished one from Rock Auto which rusted in two weeks, but that gave me time to rebuild my original. See if you can't get the parts cheaper, if you really want to do OEM.

Post by **Larz** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:30 am

satown210 wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:53 pm
Don't expect the dealer or a lot of shops to install your parts. I worked for a lot of shops and we never installed customer parts. Every time we did, it came back and bit us. Customers unhappy with the quality of the parts or the part would break soon after. Example customer complaining of brake pads he provided dust too much and are loud. Customer wants us to put different pads on that he is providing again and wants us to do it for free. Well it's not our pads that are unsatisfactory. Another customer cries about how broke he is and wants us to install a starter he bought. The new starter fails three days later. He wants us to swap in another one. He gets mad when we give him another labor quote. IT WASN"T OUR PART THAT FAILED. Also there are slim profit margins in auto repair so repair shops make money off parts and labor. When you cut the profit off parts the job suddenly is a lot closer to a break even transaction without profit.

So true. Most "auto shops" will not install anything you don't buy from them. They cannot afford to take the loss of profit from parts sales and have no other income from car sales, etc. However, nearly all Infiniti dealerships will install your parts because they still collect full price on labor. The dealership will NOT offer any type of warranty aside form incorrect installation. You don't need a warranty from the dealer because Brakemotive provides the warranty direct to you. I received a 4-wheel set from them once that was missing the front brake pads. I called them and they sent my new front pads and hardware overnight for free.

Post by **mrnix** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:34 am

hulk1602 wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:08 am

With labor
$375 per axle for pads and rotors resurfaced
OR
$710 per axle for pads and new rotors

Parts only
$150 each for Rotors
$150 per axle for pads

Maybe I'm missing something, but if I'm not, the math doesn't work out.

$375 per axles for pads and resurfacing of existing rotors PLUS a set of brand new rotors at $300 ($150x2) comes out to $35 LESS than the pads plus new rotors quote.

IMO, if your rotors are thick enough to get resurfaced, there's little harm in having it done once. shouldn't change your overall braking quality unless you're really hard on them.

Post by **hulk1602** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:47 am

I guess those prices are on par for OEM dealer installed, but considering the money I can save I think I'm going to give it a shot myself with some supervision from someone with more experience (it'll be a first for me but it doesn't look to complex).

Appreciate the input everyone! I was also looking into the EBC kits. Anyone have any experience with those?

Post by **hulk1602** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:31 am

mrnix wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:34 am

hulk1602 wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:08 am

With labor
$375 per axle for pads and rotors resurfaced
OR
$710 per axle for pads and new rotors

Parts only
$150 each for Rotors
$150 per axle for pads
Maybe I'm missing something, but if I'm not, the math doesn't work out.

$375 per axles for pads and resurfacing of existing rotors PLUS a set of brand new rotors at $300 ($150x2) comes out to $35 LESS than the pads plus new rotors quote.

IMO, if your rotors are thick enough to get resurfaced, there's little harm in having it done once. shouldn't change your overall braking quality unless you're really hard on them.

Lets see if we are on the same page...

Dealer installed pads and resurfacing of rotors: $375 (per axle) x 2 = $$750
Dealer installed pads and new rotors: $710 (per axle) x 2 = $1420
Parts only Pads: $150 (per axle) x2 = $300
Parts Only Pads ($150 per axle) and rotors ($150 each) only = ($150 x 2) + ($150 x 4) = $900

Not sure if I follow your example but rotors alone were $150 each, not per axle, unless I misunderstood the advisor.

However, I got these numbers over the phone after reaching out via email and not getting a reply.

The reply came through this morning, from another advisor, and stated "brake service $350, with rotors $605".

Even if I misheard about the rotors being $150 each vs $150 per axle this is still way lower than the $1420 quote. Sounds strange doesn't it?

Post by **k67p67** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 1:21 pm

With the quotes above, the labor for replacing pads and resurfacing rotors is $400 but the labor for replacing pads and replacing rotors is $520 even though it requires less labor.

Post by **kmiles** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:58 pm

I ran into the same challenges with quotes from the dealer for the brake work. No matter what, I ended up deciding to learn how to do it myself and with the combination of Ilyas great direction and YouTube, found it was a whole lot easier that I thought it would be. The first time I did it, the biggest challenge was getting the rear rotors off as they were rusted on. A 2x4 and a big hammer did the trick, but it took about 15 minutes per side to loosen them up. Once the Brakemotive rotors were on, it was a piece of cake, as they never rusted like the OEM rotors. I'm always looking for a good excuse to buy some new tools and ended up finding excuses to get a few that helped in later brake repairs. Let me know if you want that information. Like many others, I've recommended the Brakemotive products and bought them 3 different times over the years.

Post by **cliffyk** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:32 pm

I have never in 55+ years of driving resurfaced rotors, replaced yes, but never turned. Mostly as I have never let them get to the point they needed it; as long as they are reasonably flat and not gouged just slap in a new set of pads, bed them properly (several hard stops from 45 to 50 mph, with a few hard reverse stops in-between), then be on your way. Dealerships and repair shops do this as a CYA maneuver, so they cannot be accused of some sort of "negligence" by an ambulance chaser. I drove my 2003 Mustang Cobra for 220k miles (aggressively) on two sets of rotors anf probably a half dozen sets of ceramic pads.

Replacing pads and rotors is easy, I just did it on my wife's "new-to-us" 2013 Outback, after having a stroke last summer...

Post by **satown210** » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:36 pm

Rotors rarely have enough material to make turning them worth it. If they are warped guess what will happen to the now thinner rotor that has less material to handle the heat. They will warp even faster. The story is that rotors are thinner for less wait for better economy. I think it's about cost. Cheaper and need to be replaced more often.

Post by **Mjkkb2** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:17 am

I was quoted $1600 for all 4 corners for new pads and rotors (sport brakes) last year.

Post by **hulk1602** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:09 am

k67p67 wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 11, 2019 1:21 pm
With the quotes above, the labor for replacing pads and resurfacing rotors is $400 but the labor for replacing pads and replacing rotors is $520 even though it requires less labor.

I noticed that too. And since it's easier to replace than to turn, and save more at the same time, it makes even more sense to tackle it myself.

Post by **hulk1602** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:16 am

kmiles wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:58 pm
I ran into the same challenges with quotes from the dealer for the brake work. No matter what, I ended up deciding to learn how to do it myself and with the combination of Ilyas great direction and YouTube, found it was a whole lot easier that I thought it would be. The first time I did it, the biggest challenge was getting the rear rotors off as they were rusted on. A 2x4 and a big hammer did the trick, but it took about 15 minutes per side to loosen them up. Once the Brakemotive rotors were on, it was a piece of cake, as they never rusted like the OEM rotors. I'm always looking for a good excuse to buy some new tools and ended up finding excuses to get a few that helped in later brake repairs. Let me know if you want that information. Like many others, I've recommended the Brakemotive products and bought them 3 different times over the years.

Appreciate that. I'm going to use this as a guide howto-change-m37-m56-q70-y51-brakes-fro ... 12727.html so I'll pick up those extras, but if you recommend anything else I'm all ears.
Any idea what the torque specs are when putting everything back together?

Post by **kmiles** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:08 am

Torque Specs:
Front calipers (2 or 4 piston) = 123 (13, 91) N-m (kg-m, ft-lb)
Rear calipers (1 or 2 piston) = 84.3 (8.6, 62)

Tools I've found useful:
Disc Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I ... UTF8&psc=1
Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X ... UTF8&psc=1

You can do without the wind back tool with a piece of wood and a clamp to pull the pistons back in. Our local autozone will let you borrow theirs for no cost if you buy something. The brake fluid bleeder assumes you have an air compressor. Also, the job is much easier with pneumatic tools, a good jack and jack stands. You will also want to get some copper based brake grease and some rubber grease for the sliding pin bolt along with brake fluid.

Post by **hulk1602** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:31 am

Mjkkb2 wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:17 am
I was quoted $1600 for all 4 corners for new pads and rotors (sport brakes) last year.

I wonder if they assumed mine was a Sport. Would that increase the price drastically vs a nonsport?

Post by **satown210** » Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:22 pm

Yes the Akebono sport brakes are more expensive.

Post by **hulk1602** » Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:39 am

Going to pull the trigger on this Brakemotive kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Dri ... 0005!US!-1
Can anyone confirm this is the correct one for a 2013 Non sport? It states that it fits "320 mm Front Rotor Models with Single Piston Front Caliper ONLY". I'm assuming that's what I have so sorry if this is a dumb question but just want to be sure.

YouTube · Post by **EdBwoy** » Tue Apr 16, 2019 6:29 am

hulk1602 wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:39 am
...correct one for a 2013 Non sport? It states that it fits "320 mm Front Rotor Models with Single Piston Front Caliper ONLY"...

Correct. Here are the specs with rounded down numbers:
Non sport
Front: 12.6 in/320 mm
Rear: 12.1 in/307 mm

Sport
Front: 14.0 in/355 mm. 4-piston opposed caliper
Rear: 13.8 in/350 mm. 2-piston opposed caliper

Post by **hulk1602** » Tue Apr 16, 2019 7:24 am

EdBwoy wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 16, 2019 6:29 am

hulk1602 wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:39 am
...correct one for a 2013 Non sport? It states that it fits "320 mm Front Rotor Models with Single Piston Front Caliper ONLY"...
Correct. Here are the specs with rounded down numbers:
Non sport
Front: 12.6 in/320 mm
Rear: 12.1 in/307 mm

Sport
Front: 14.0 in/355 mm. 4-piston opposed caliper
Rear: 13.8 in/350 mm. 2-piston opposed caliper

Ordered. Thanks!

Post by **pedsemdoc** » Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:15 pm

With a little guidance and the How To, you can certainly do this job!!! It'll just take a few hours of your time to do all 4 corners the first time and especially if the hub is rusted and you have a little trouble getting the rotor off.

Things to think about:

1. When you're pressing the pistons back in, make sure the cap to your brake fluid reservoir is off and be mindful at what level the fluid is at. As you push the piston in, you are going to push fluid back towards the reservoir. If your reservoir is at the max line or over, it may spill out and brake fluid will eat through paint.

2. While you have the calipers off, you may want to paint them your color of choice - really prolongs the job, though since you have to clean, prep, and paint and wait for things to dry.

Post by **ibc** » Sun Apr 28, 2019 12:56 pm

pedsemdoc wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:15 pm
1. When you're pressing the pistons back in, make sure the cap to your brake fluid reservoir is off and be mindful at what level the fluid is at. As you push the piston in, you are going to push fluid back towards the reservoir.

Bad idea. The better way is to open the bleeder screw to allow the dirty rust-laden brake fluid to exit the system instead. You don't want that old stuff in your brake system. The rust comes from the inside of your caliper pistons. And that old fluid has boiled a few times and has degraded from moisture. Best to let it purge outside via bleeders.

Post by **ibc** » Fri May 03, 2019 10:52 am

Thanks for the deets. I ordered a full set of BrakeMotive rotors/pads for my M56x. Arriving soon.
I've never used slotted rotors before. Hope they work as advertised. Just $150 parts & DIY install beats the dealer price by 90%.

Any trick to removing a stuck slider pin on rear caliper? It just spins round & round after unscrewing the threads. There doesn't seem to be any hold-flats for a 2nd wrench. I presume just yank it out hard?

Post by **ibc** » Tue May 14, 2019 3:43 pm

Turns out my lower caliper slide pin was seized (RR wheel). Removal req'd the caliper a**'y held by a bench vice while beating violently on the caliper bracket with a BFH. Great therapy for anger mgmt. :-) PB-Blaster didn't help much. The rusted slide pin eventually came out. Grrr. Luckily both the caliper & bracket are OK. A new slide pin (w/o rubber bushing) costs $18. Ouch.

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