Brake question

[SilviaS14KA24DE]

ok i got my breaks done 2 months ago and they're squealing like a pig in a toaster.

It's weird, the front breaks don't sqeal at all, but only the rear ones do. Especially when I reverse, it sounds horrible. I have Duralasts on all four corners.

I was thinking maybe since my car is dropped 1.75'' all around, the rear camber will crap up my breaks? Maybe get a RUCA to correct the camber (does camber have anything to do with squealing breaks?) Correct me if I'm wrong. Another thought was that my break pads are just crappy and maybe I need a better brand of break pads- but remeber my fronts have them also and don't squeal.

The last thought is that the piston set up is crap. The rears are like any 240's (those damn pistons you have to twist and align). I know if they're not aligned, they're put on wrong, although they're aligned to the pad perfectly. Should i get different calipers? Like the type of calipers on the front breaks? If I should, off of what car or brand? Will J30 breaks work? I really dont wanna deal with twsiting the piston inwards just to fit on the pads. I'd rather just push them in cause it's much easier to adn i dont' have to alight it perfectly.

Oh and yes I've thought about 300zx break upgrade if this is the way to fix my breaks.

Please help! I'm gonna get the rotors resurfaced (again) and try it out again but I would like the rid the problem once and for all (I really, REALLY hate annoying sqeaky breaks).

[NISTECH]

Pad design is very important when it comes to brake noise. If the pads are organic your chances of squeek are much less however you have to deal with brake fade when they get hot [feels like you lost your brakes type of fade] That typically only occurs under hard driving and mountian driving. Semi metallic pads dont have the fade problem but are more suseptable to squeek. A key ingrediant to preventing squeek are the shims and lubracant you put on the back of the pads where they contact the caliper and piston. Those shims are for noise reduction, the lube put between them also helps dampen vibration [which is what brake squeek really is]. I preffer PBC as my shim lube but have had success with 3M. Since it is isolated more to your rear brakes I have to question your e-brake adjustment. Is it possibly to tight?

[SilviaS14KA24DE]

It's not that tight at all. Of course tight to the point where I can leave it on Ebrake on an incline (of course i dont' do that). How should I check if it's too tight?

Yeah I don't have shims on my pads at all so I will try to get my hands on some OEM ones. Unless you guys know where to get them for cheaper.

[NISTECH]

OEM arnt all that rediculas but some times factory shims dont fit aftermarket pads. This is something you may have to take a chance with. If you can find some at a wrecking yard they would suffice unless they are covers in that rubbery silicone crap. Thats one of the worst things you could use on the pad backing to prevent noise. IT doesnt work. If the factory shims dont work out I think they offer some aftermarket too. They dont tend to hold up as well and I have even seen them slide off the pad and rub on the rotor hat giving you a whole different type of noise.

[SilviaS14KA24DE]

Hmm alrighty. I just bought the OEM shims for the rears, so imma try them out this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

[NISTECH]

You need to deglaze the rotors and pads too. You can accomplish that pretty quickly with a die grinder equipped with a arbor for a roloc pad. you just scuff the surface of the pads and the rotor with it.

[SilviaS14KA24DE]

hmm are those expensive? Cause i was just thinking of taking the rotors and pads off then bringing them to a pepboys or midas to have them resurface the brakes. Unless you wanna come over to my house and help me

[NISTECH]

Yea you could run it down to manny moe and jack and have them resurface it too. Just use some sand paper to deglaze the pads. 120 grit paper should be good to use. If I am not mistaken your in the LA basin, kinda far from Galt