Was the pulling-during-braking the main driver behind the brake work, or did the whole fiasco start
AFTER the brake work?
If your steering wheel is straight while you drive straight, then I suspect the pull is due to only the left front brake working. Did the worker mention anything about a seized caliper or bracket on the right side?
If the steering wheel is crooked while going straight or stopping, then you either need a new alignment or have developed a new defect in your new parts. It wouldn't be surprising for components to be damaged in the process of installation.
-Check for leaks around the brakes and maybe have a partner brake while you try to turn the wheel by hand with the vehicle in the air.
Below, I'll copy some pointers I shared on how to test for faulty brakes based on temperature. The infrared thermometer isn't a necessity, but is a huge risk mitigation tool against burning yourself.
EdBwoy wrote: ↑Sun Oct 28, 2018 2:26 pm
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So, do you have new pads, rotors or tires?
Have you checked or serviced the calipers to make sure the brakes are all engaging normally?
This test doesn't have to be an all-out disassembly of the car. [You strike me like the kind of guy that has an infrared thermometer handy, lol. Everyone should, really]
- After a good straight line run, brake normally and pull into a parking lot etc (a distance that doesn't allow the brakes to cool down).
- Go around the car checking the rotor/hub temperatures
- Aim for the non-reflective parts of the rotor - like the center, and compare numbers.
- You should have approx the same readings on the left and right side.
The front rotors will be approx 20 degrees F hotter.
- That varies, but in general front>rear, left=right as pertains to temperature.
- If one of them is too cold or too hot, then progress to the disassembly stage of troubleshooting because that one isn't working well.
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