brake problem
brake problem
Installed new, rear brake pads and rotors on my 2005 pathfinder yesterday. One side is running very hot and the other side is cool. I have checked the calipers and they seem fine. Could this be the proportional valve? any ideas or advice would be very helpful.
Re: brake problem
I am not aware that 2005 Pathfinder had 4 wheel disc brakes, but that said...
Left right front and rear, one side is very hot, do you mean one side of the car or one side of the pads on the same wheel?
The proportional valve is usually front to rear. The front brakes are bigger and usually disk compared to drum. When all 4 are engaged under hard braking the proportional valve limits and allows greater breaking force to be more equal.
You say you have disks all around, are they a side to side and front to rear proportionally sequenced?
If your brakes are running one side hot on one wheel, that may indicate that the caliper is not free balanced to allow the pads to release. That hot pad may be rubbing the brake friction disc at all times instead of floating just over the metal disc.
If the brake is hot on one side of the car that side could have the caliper not releasing.
The calipers have piston(s) within that use brake fluid as a pressure inducer by way of the brake pedal and anti lock on off release mechanism. If the anti lock can not vibrate by releasing and holding pressures the pads have a tendency to be more on than off. Causing heat build up because of their ability to cause friction.
Disc brakes reside in the mid of the stroke of the piston pushing the pads toward each other. The rubber seal around the piston not only seals but gives some rearward force to release the piston when your foot is off the brake. When you examined the caliper under your described condition just looking at it will tell you about nothing.
Remove that caliper and see, feel for dirt, grit built up in the seal seat area. Look for blockages to the piston returning. Is the pad wearing even in all directions, is the pad rusting in the back of it, are anti rattle springs worn, rusted?
The caliper and the pads should be removed, cleaned and lubricated, then the rubbers checked, then the piston checked for ease of movement.
When reassembled the rubbers for the floats checked and greased and tested for a floating condition. The bolts torqued and the brakes tested for stopping.
If you are experiencing this one wheel problem and since you have 4 disc wheel brakes it would be advisable to test and check all your brakes and e brake.
When working on your brakes cleanliness is critical, it is difficult to work around a disc brake rotor with out getting the rotors dirty, so when you are finishing the job degrease the rotors with brake cleaner. Be careful of the brake reservoir, when pushing back the pistons in the calipers, the brake fluid will flow back into the reservoir and over flow. Brake fluid is a good brake lubricant and GOOD destroyer of paint.
Using your new refinished brakes that were just cleaned with brake cleaner will cause them to be noisy and grabby until the clean surfaces of the disc and the pads reseat so be very cautious of your braking ability while testing the brakes the very first time. They will quiet down very soon.
New pads will take longer to seat especially ceramic.
Left right front and rear, one side is very hot, do you mean one side of the car or one side of the pads on the same wheel?
The proportional valve is usually front to rear. The front brakes are bigger and usually disk compared to drum. When all 4 are engaged under hard braking the proportional valve limits and allows greater breaking force to be more equal.
You say you have disks all around, are they a side to side and front to rear proportionally sequenced?
If your brakes are running one side hot on one wheel, that may indicate that the caliper is not free balanced to allow the pads to release. That hot pad may be rubbing the brake friction disc at all times instead of floating just over the metal disc.
If the brake is hot on one side of the car that side could have the caliper not releasing.
The calipers have piston(s) within that use brake fluid as a pressure inducer by way of the brake pedal and anti lock on off release mechanism. If the anti lock can not vibrate by releasing and holding pressures the pads have a tendency to be more on than off. Causing heat build up because of their ability to cause friction.
Disc brakes reside in the mid of the stroke of the piston pushing the pads toward each other. The rubber seal around the piston not only seals but gives some rearward force to release the piston when your foot is off the brake. When you examined the caliper under your described condition just looking at it will tell you about nothing.
Remove that caliper and see, feel for dirt, grit built up in the seal seat area. Look for blockages to the piston returning. Is the pad wearing even in all directions, is the pad rusting in the back of it, are anti rattle springs worn, rusted?
The caliper and the pads should be removed, cleaned and lubricated, then the rubbers checked, then the piston checked for ease of movement.
When reassembled the rubbers for the floats checked and greased and tested for a floating condition. The bolts torqued and the brakes tested for stopping.
If you are experiencing this one wheel problem and since you have 4 disc wheel brakes it would be advisable to test and check all your brakes and e brake.
When working on your brakes cleanliness is critical, it is difficult to work around a disc brake rotor with out getting the rotors dirty, so when you are finishing the job degrease the rotors with brake cleaner. Be careful of the brake reservoir, when pushing back the pistons in the calipers, the brake fluid will flow back into the reservoir and over flow. Brake fluid is a good brake lubricant and GOOD destroyer of paint.
Using your new refinished brakes that were just cleaned with brake cleaner will cause them to be noisy and grabby until the clean surfaces of the disc and the pads reseat so be very cautious of your braking ability while testing the brakes the very first time. They will quiet down very soon.
New pads will take longer to seat especially ceramic.
Re: brake problem
thanks for the answer, I wound up taking it to the dealer as I was convinced it was a valve problem and I have a warranty. The mechanic said that the slide pin was dirty and that he cleaned and regreased it. Thing is, after driving it I took a the temerature of the the rotors with a infra red thermometer and 3 rotors were right about 180-200 degrees. The right rear rotor (opposite side of the one that was giving me trouble) was 98 degrees, as if it is not doing much