I have 30mm calipers in the front and the 300zx 2piston calipters in the rear. Total 12 pistons.
I upgraded the master cylinder to a remaned 300zx unit (I believe 1").
After bleeding the system and driving the car some it feels like my brake pedal only goes about half way to the floor. It does not feel like any car I have ever driven. I have checked the pedal and with the MC unbolted from the firewall the pedal will go to the floor so it is not binding. I have attemped to make sure the rod coming from the booster is fully seated in the MC, but with the same results.
I press the pedal about half way and the car starts to slow slightly and then the pedal just gets REALLY hard and stops moving.
To give some indication of the equipment I am using the MC as stated is new/remaned. The front calipers were torn down, bead blasted, painted and reassembled with new o-rings and dust seals. The rear calipers are used, but in good condition without any rust or corrosion. I am using OE pads with OE rotor. Only down side is both are slightly used but seem to have mated together now after some driving.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I have done everything the right way and correctly, but yet am haing this problem.
Brake pedal travel/feel after 300zx brake upgrade
I didn't have to bend the lines at all. Just removed the "other" front port on the MC (300zx doesen't use it due to ABS) and hooked the lines up. I blead the brakes from rear to front trying to go from longes line to shortest line. I blead them via the old 2 man pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed as well as a vacuum pump.
Sounds like your pads might have uneven wear and you're just not used to the increased pedal pressure of the bigger MC.
If the pad is not worn evenly, you'd basically have to compress/bend the pad backing a bit to get that pad to seat well against the rotor. That'll give you a bit of extra travel, then you've got plenty of braking torque after that when you give it a bit more pressure.
I'd take off the pad that had uneven seating(rust in center of the rotor) and check it out really close to see what it looks like. The rust should have been worn off within 1-2 applications of the brakes if everything was ok.
If the pad is not worn evenly, you'd basically have to compress/bend the pad backing a bit to get that pad to seat well against the rotor. That'll give you a bit of extra travel, then you've got plenty of braking torque after that when you give it a bit more pressure.
I'd take off the pad that had uneven seating(rust in center of the rotor) and check it out really close to see what it looks like. The rust should have been worn off within 1-2 applications of the brakes if everything was ok.