Brake Pads

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

hello, i am in need of new brake pads for my 1995 s14. where is the best place o buy them (cheap) and are they OEM or should i get aftermarket (do they make aftermakret pads??) and lastly, when i get them, how do i install them myself?? thanks!!

Post by **Doogz** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

OEM replacement pads are pretty cheap wherever you go to get them (back to nissan or another auto parts place). Not sure where would be a good place to get aftermarket pads. but you can get them just gotta be careful as to what type. They make organic style pads, semi-metallic, metallic, and carbon pads. Organics are cheapest but don't brake as well and as you continue on you run into higher price, more noise, more brake dust, and increased rotor wear but you get better braking! It all just depends on your needs and as far as installing them...its just a matter of taking off the wheel, then taking off the caliper, pushing the pistons back out and puttin the new pads in place.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

i'll go with the OEM pads, as for the installation, i will give it a try adn hope its not too confusing hehe thanks!!

Post by **Doogz** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

Np man. Just look at it logically and you'll be able to tell what needs to happen. I haven't done the brakes on my 240 yet but many cars have allen head bolts used to remove the caliper and there may possibly be a retaining clip that needs to come off. You'll figure it out, but just do one side at a time so that if you do run into any problems reassembling the unit, you could just take a quick glance at the other side. Wish ya the best of luck with your brake project and i have faith that it will turn out just fine

Post by **bj180sx** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

and make sure to bleed the brakes too. Very important.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

bleed the brakes?? is this neessary?? from what i hear this is an intimidating process and would like to know more b4 i try this/

also, since i didnt check the pads myself, how do i?? just remove everything as if i were to istall it and then what are the guidelines to chekcing the pads? how thick should they be??

thanks again guys!!

Post by **yellow_jacket** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

You do not need to bleed the brakes when doing a brake job. It is actually very simple to do. One person pumps the brake pedal 3 times and holds it, then the other one opens the bleeder on the caliper. Let the fluid shoot out, close the bleeder, have the guy in the car release the brake pedal.

As far as checking the pads how far they can wear down is a little bit of personal preference. You definetely don't want them to go metal to metal. I usually run mine down to 1/8 of an inch. Customer cars are another story though as they tend to run them too long and are hard on them so we usually tell them before it hits 1/8.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

thanks

Post by **friskme** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

yellow_jacket wrote:You do not need to bleed the brakes when doing a brake job. It is actually very simple to do. One person pumps the brake pedal 3 times and holds it, then the other one opens the bleeder on the caliper. Let the fluid shoot out, close the bleeder, have the guy in the car release the brake pedal.

screw that man... just get some russell speed bleeders and save yourself a little time! i got 4 on ebay for under 15 bucks!!! think the sellers name is svensaturdays or something or other... he has one of them newfangled ebay stores. look him up! i stand behind russell speed bleeders im not just the president.. im also a client!!! :ylsuper

Post by **DAEDALUS** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

Speedbleeders are great products. As far as bleeding the brakes, yellow_jacket's right...not necessary. But very recommended, and figure you change your pads once every 1-2 years, and that's also a good interval for changing your fluid. There is so much more to proper maintenance than just changing the oil every 90 days. It's hard to convince someone that a fluid can last over a year and still be acceptable, but that it's unacceptable after 3 years. Don't wait for your water pump to fail before replacing the coolant. Don't wait for your brake fluid to boil before flushing it. That would be like waiting till someone is 2 seconds from hitting you before you begin to put on your seatbelt.

Post by **maxpower** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

OEM nissan pads are not cheap. Local stealership wanted 65 for the front set, i didn't even bother asking about the rears...Bought a complete set of KVR carbons from pdm-racing for $100 with delivery.

Post by **djtodd** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

It is also good practice to have your rotors turned as well.

I don't know how technical you are so sorry if I'm talking "down" to you, but...

The term turning the rotors very crudely means having someone "grind" for lack of a better term a very thin layer of your rotors to remove any grooves/warps caused by use over time. Doing this will help prevent brake squeal, maximize performance, and life of your pads.

Also, go to your local napa or whatever parts store and get some new brake pad shims to replace when you replace your pads. These are thin metal or platic pads that fit between the pad and the caliper and help absorb vibrations, and reduce brake squeal.

Take your time and as DAEDALUS said, go ahead and bleed your brakes. I don't even consider it an option when changing pads. Better safe than sorry.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

ok guys, thanks, i will keep you all updated!

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

I got my Axxis Ultimates for 55 bucks shipped.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

hello! well i got an estimate on how much i am going to spend on brakes, and i am curious if i should spend my money some other way!

i am getting new pads, and dealership pads cost about $70, are there any better aftermarket pads, and how much??

also, i am being quoted $90 for installation as well as rotor grinding, if i install the brake pads myself, could i just buy a new aftermarket rotor? how much are they and what are some good ones?CAR: 1995 S15 SE

NISMOFREAK, where did u get your axxis ultimates and are they proven to be stronger than stock brake pads??

thanks!!

Post by **MrFox** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

i'm also in need to know... all the pads on my car are close to or at minimum thinkness. i probably need to rebuilt my calipers too cuz they are sticking.

anyways heres the info i've gathered so far on pads and rotors...

brembo rotors are excellent and of known quality, and reasonably priced (for the plain ones)

EBC pads work as advertised - grippy and good fade resistance, but wears quickly

if you've got some info to share on this stuff , please enlighten us!

btw u can take your rotors to napa and have them resurfaced for around $15.

Post by **ESPER** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

good looking out mr fox!! how much are the EBC pads and BREMBO rotors?

also, when bleeding my brakes, i am looking to get those speedbleeders!! those seem good! what is the recomended brake fluid that i should go pick up for my car as well??

Post by **Silvia2b** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

When you remove the rear pads you don't need to bleed the sytem since you aren't removing the caliper to let any air in, But you need to have the correct factory service tool to rotate your piston back in to the the caliper assembly, this is important!, they cannot just be pushed back in with a C-clamp or similar tool.

Post by **groundhogday1976** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

Silvia2b wrote:When you remove the rear pads you don't need to bleed the sytem since you aren't removing the caliper to let any air in, But you need to have the correct factory service tool to rotate your piston back in to the the caliper assembly, this is important!, they cannot just be pushed back in with a C-clamp or similar tool.

You can get that tool at any decent auto parts store for $10-12. It fits on a 3/8" drive ratchet. You'll need to use an extension. Some people use needle nose pliers, but my pistons were too hard to turn. Also, spray some WD40 around the rubber boot on the piston or it could rip while you're turning it. BTW, it doesn't just screw back in. You have to push and turn simultaneously.

Post by **GodDrivesA240sx** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

mrfox, more than likely you're right about your calipers, but if the boot isn't torn you might want to check your brake hose, even if it looks fine. It's made of 3 different layers of rubber and if the inner layer implodes on itself you can't tell. What happends is when you apply your brakes the fluid pushes past the imploded part but then gets stuck and holds the brakes on.

If you buy napa's united pads they'll come with the shims (and have the slots in the pads and the shamfered edges) I think they're like 40-51 for the front set, rear is a few dollars cheaper. They'll prob try to sell you the cermix pads (it's whats shown as OE replacement in the computer), which are like 99 dollars, but the regular AE pades will be fine. Some stores also carry the metal axxis brake pads (performance) (which I have, I love them

) they are like 38 or so dollars.

Post by **cornkillerS14** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

I am in process replacing my 95 basic model rear brake. but i am having trouble on install the pad into the caliper. I have no idea how can you fit the two metal clips that holds the pad and the brake pads into the calipers.

Also, i didnt see any "shim" you guys talk about, should i go buy one?

and how exactly do i turn the piston? turn it like a screw? is there any tool i can get from autozone or kragen can help me?

Thanks guys!

Post by **goshoryuken** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 2:05 pm

I got my Albany brake pads for $16 at autozone and they come with a warranty, had em on for a while now . . so far . . so good.

Installation on my car is a bytch though, because everything is old and rusted and unwilling to be upgraded.

Brake Pads

Brake Pads

rear brakes, according to the FSM

Re: rear brakes, according to the FSM

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