Brake Pad and Rotors - recommendation and question

[jhilb]

2004 2WD Crew Cab

Since it's not a 4WD model I can just remove the rotor right off the hub correct? I am reading all kinds of 'stuck' problems but that appears to be 4x4 only.

Also, Autozone brand rotors and pads any good?

Should I be going with semi-metallic or ceramic pads? I think OEM was semi-metallic right?

J

[Rev_D21]

I personally stay away from ceramic pads. I have had good luck with carbon-metallic pads from Performance Friction. They are rotor friendly and have great stopping ability. http://www.performancefriction.com/ to see if they make them for your truck. Can be order through any Fleetpride.

[jhilb]

Thanks.

I don't have to open the bleeder to push the pistons back do I? I can just use an old pad and a clamp to push them back, after taking the cap off the master cylinder reservoir?

[jhilb]

What am I looking at here please? Am I getting into something I am not going to be able to handle?

I was expecting to be looking at the rotor.

Jeff

[C-Kwik]

Thanks.

I don't have to open the bleeder to push the pistons back do I? I can just use an old pad and a clamp to push them back, after taking the cap off the master cylinder reservoir?

I tend to open the bleed screw as pushing it back into the reservior could cause it to overflow if you ever topped off the reservior as the level dropped from pad wear and it tends to push contaminants back up. I generally flush the system while I am changing the pads so I prefer to not to put more junk to be flushed into the reservior.

What am I looking at here please? Am I getting into something I am not going to be able to handle?

I was expecting to be looking at the rotor.

Jeff

Hard to tell as I haven't worked on a Frontier's brakes (despite the fact my parents have one). And the picture you provided is a bit small. A quick look at the FSM indicates you'll have to the hub as the rotor is attached (I hate this type of set-up).

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/frontier/2004/fax.pdf

[Rev_D21]

Must remove the axle nut. Remove the hub/rotor as an assembly then remove the bolts holding the rotor to the hub. They are not like a car if that's what you were asking.

[RT]

if you press the piston back slowly it is fine as long as there is no ABS if you have anti lock brakes you can screw up the ABS system if you press piston back with bleeder valve closed. If non abs just remove cap on reservior and slowly push piston back until it bottoms out. Like said above watch reservior to be sure it does not overflow.

[RT]

Also on rotors and pads check web. I had brembo stock replacements and metal master pads both real affordable on my twinturbo Z and they would slam you into the dash without belt on. NO FADE and that car was fast and heavy. Rotors looked stock but made by brembo 55 a peice for fronts and pads metal masters great stopping little dust no squeak and easy on rotors, pads were like 40 a set for front. Got them from a place called strano parts on web. Owner races and said for street it was all i needed and he was right. 4 back to back 100mph plus stops once they were bedded in and zero fade. all for like 200 bucks. When I did the z i added goodridge stainless steel lines also to firm up pedal. Best brakes for the bucks I have ever used or driven on. Not sure if they make it all for truck but check brembo and metal master on web for fitment.

[RT]

Tire rack has rotors by brembo for hardbody and full pad selections also. Great prices