Brake Light and Battery Light/Continually blown fuses

[roziroz]

I have a very similar problem to this thread: zer...38454

My brake light is on and my battery light is dim, I get the buzzing from the check light relay under my dashboard. I did all the trouble shooting of load testing my alternator, replacing my battery, new exhaust temp sensor, and finally internet research found the above thread. I checked my fuses and YES the 10A ECS fuse was blown. I replaced it and a day later, it was blown again. Bought some new fuses and I'm on my third fuse already....

It seems like I will keep blowing fuses. They only blow when I drive, if I replace the fuse and run the car in my driveway (idle), it doesn't blow... Do I have a short somewhere or is there other problems? Can anyone suggest what I should check?

[roziroz]

Can anyone help with this problem? I don't want to put my '90 s13 ka24e 240sx to bed with only 170k! Its got a lot of life left If I could just figure out this problem.The only other thing I can think of doing/checking that i haven't done already is my ground wires... they might be old and corroded. Tonight I'll take the grounds off and clean them up. I know there are two grounds one from the battery to the engine block under the ECCU intake manifold and the other is by the drivers side front head light connecting to the body from the main wiring harness. Are there any others I don't know about?

[omdella]

sounds like a short somewhere, try checking around ur battery terminals on the positive side, see if ur terminals need replacing or if any of the acidwires comming from the positive side have been eaten up by battery

[nuts510]

I would start out by disconnecting the alternator from the circuit, this means unhook all the wires going to an alternator. if the fuses quit blowing replace alternator and try again

[roziroz]

Thanks for the suggestion about the alternator. I'm booked at work till friday, so Saturday morning I'll be out there giving it a try. Tonight I cleaned all the grounds ans tested for voltage across the fuse and leaks/shorts to ground... didn't find any. The battery has a steady 14.01 volts to it. The Amps seem ok too... I'm not too sure how many amps should be re-charging the battery, but it obviously varies as you rev the engine. I also got the fuse to blow while idling... it didn't blow at first when I started the car, but after reving the engine and testing voltages, I think the engine came up to temp and the fuse blew.... Strange. I replaced the fuse AGAIN and this time it blew as soon as I turned the key and started the car since it was already warmed up. Sounds like a clue to me as to where I need to focus my testing, but I'm still baffeled!

I can't wait till Saturday when I'll have some free time to tinker... any other suggestions to my problem are still being accepted!

[roziroz]

Ok, so after unhooking all of the alternator's wires,

I would start out by disconnecting the alternator from the circuit, this means unhook all the wires going to an alternator. if the fuses quit blowing replace alternator and try again

the fuse still burnt out as soon as I turned the key.

I followed the wiring diagram for my car and the circuit that the fuse is on is the solenoids... I disconnected each solenoid: SCV, AIV, EGR, PR, and AAC. Tried the fuse again blown.... This is starting to piss me off! The only thing left in the circuit is the Bulb Check relay,the wires themselves and as remote possibility the computer. I can't get to the bulb check relay today as its located in THE WORST SPOT EVER! Behind the main harness up under the dashboard. I'm going to work....

Please help with any suggestions or ideas... I'm about to call it quits!

[roziroz]

Finally! I found the Short. It was in the wire harness by the gas vapor canister (front drivers side of the engine). The wire harness was rubbing against a metal bracket for 17 years and finally cut through the insulation. I cut out the bad part of the wire, crimped the two halfs together and wrapped it back up with a plastic protector and electrical tape. NO MORE BLOWN FUSES!!

UNFORTUNATELY, my parking brake light still doesn't go off! WHY??? And the check light relay still makes a buzzing sound. If I remove the relay, the lights work like they should, but the engine is still running rough. I think the engine is not idling right because of the SCV solinoid valve reads 8,000,000 ohms. I ordered a new one from Nissan so I'll see if that helps.

The relay seems to read right on the volt meter when I test it, so i'm not sure if its part of the problem??

I need lots of help with this one!! please!