Brake job on 97 Q?

[zinkie13]

I have almost 75 thousand miles on my Q and yet to change the pads or rotors. I am planning on doing it soon but am not sure exactly what to get. What pads should I get? Some previous postings talk about OEM being preferred by most and Metal Masters by some others. Also... will i need any other parts or tools besides the pads and rotors to do the change. Thanks.

[dougs98Q45]

Use the stock pads from Joe (or dealer) or you will likely have squealing- at least I did. I pulled off NEW after-markets and trashed right after I got the car (also 75K mi.) cuz driving a car like that with squealing brakes is just wrong! Very easy to change. If I remember, pop off the wheel, pull the cotter pin out from the top of the brake assy. and simply tilt the whole assy. away from the hub on it's bottom hinge. Pads pop right out and new right in! Don't know about your rotors tho. If the new pads feel good and grab good, I'd think you're okay. Think some folks use the Metal Masters cuz they do a lot of hill-driving and those were less prone to fading under the resulting higher heat.

[zinkie13]

Hey thanks a lot for your help! If people who do a lot of hill driving use the metal masters I might have to go for those. Hopefully I can get all of this going soon. Thanks again

[jtesensky]

Your in luck, those factory front pads are cheaper then the G50 ('90-'96 Q45): $52.49, your factory rear pads are $37.49. The Metal Martix pads are $50.40 (front) & $33.60 (rear). Give me a ring!-Joe

[elwesso]

Dont use cheap pads.... When my brakes were done (before I owned it) they used cheap pads (I speculate) because the pads are new ish and squeal like helll!!!

[zinkie13]

Has anyone had any experience with high performance ceramic brake pads? From what I hear they work extremely well on all vehicles.

[Q45tech]

Thats what the oem pads are now " high performance ceramic". that's what Nissan shifted to in 93-95, from a more "metal master" like compound to partially correct dusting/wear compliants.

To me pads that last 45,000 miles are a little too hard, I like pads that wear out in 20-25,000 miles [and dust alot] so that I gain the last % of stopping power but each to their own.

Hard to find fast wearing pads.

[Jesda]

I use the cheap stuff from NAPA, and I find that they feel much nicer than OEM. There's more abruptness when going from a stop to a roll (when slowly letting off the brake) but the stop overall feels grippier and smoother.

-Jesda

[Q45tech]

In the police car pad testing of all the 14 brands tested on 3 different models the NAPA pads were by and far the absolute WORST.........they overheated badly and didn't stop as well, required the most pedal pressure, etc.......bottom of the barrel. In each case the oem pads of each brand out performed all the aftermarket performance pads [including Hawk and other ultra premiums]..........since they were friction coefficient specific..........not some universal compound slapped on a used factory backing plate.............But that was for the Crown Vic, Impala, and Chrysler. Not too much differences in single 60 mph stopping distances though.

Each to his own.

[Q45tech]

Unfortunate we don't have the $100,000 it would take to test and evaluate all the pads scientifically to come up with a absolute winner for the Q we have to take the factory's word for it.

The police car test took a month for just 14 pads and 5 engineers and 3 profesional drivers, 3 cars of each type, tracks and road courses and $500,000 in equipment.

Lots of work embedding thermosensors inside each pad then calibrating the systems for accuracy since 10F out of a possible 1000F.............1% accuracy was the required goal.

A 4 sets of oem rotors was used for each pad set on 3 cars.

[maxnix]

In the police car pad testing of all the 14 brands tested on 3 different models the NAPA pads were by and far the absolute WORST.........

Each to his own.

There you go again, Q45tech, "confusing" us with facts that contradict our subjective judgements.

Until we are born with dial guages on our butts, I'll stick to the controlled real world experiments. Thank you for citing this study for at least the fourth time in this forum.

[Tgvince]

I used the Akebono Ceramics on the front of my 97 and stock on the rear. I wanted the Axxis Metal master Ultimates but they dont make them for the 97+(yes they are alot better than the Regular MM pads:). The braking performance was greatly imporved over what ever the heck was on there...probably not OEM from what i could tell. If you want dust Q45tech the Ultimates do a nice job of that:).

Terry

[Q45tech]

Guess what/who the oem pad manufacturer is .......Akebono ceramic.......kind of important to read the back of oem pads......before making a judgement. Akebono has been providing the oem pads for over 10 years.

I'll keep citing it [policecar test] daily until members read it and understand it or until someone pays for a pad test anywhere as good for the Q [equal weight car] with exactly the same brake setup dual front/single rear piston calipers with same rotor thickness diameter...........the new 2003 Ford Police car is a clone of the early Q brakewise..........only took them 14 years to catch up.

http://nlectc.org/testing/brakepads.htm ... pr2000.pdf

http://www.ketteng.com/automot...g.htm

[Tgvince]

Guess what/who the oem pad manufacturer is .......Akebono ceramic.......kind of important to read the back of oem pads......before making a judgement. Akebono has been providing the oem pads for over 10 years.

I'll keep citing it [policecar test] daily until members read it and understand it or until someone pays for a pad test anywhere as good for the Q [equal weight car] with exactly the same brake setup dual front/single rear piston calipers with same rotor thickness diameter...........the new 2003 Ford Police car is a clone of the early Q brakewise..........only took them 14 years to catch up.

http://nlectc.org/testing/brakepads.htm ... pr2000.pdf

http://www.ketteng.com/automot...g.htm

Thats nice to Know! If id have had OEM pads on my Q maybe id have noticed that:). Well at least i didnt get a sub-standard pad:)

Terry

[tangalora]

Quote »What pads should I get? Will I need any other parts or tools?[/quote]See NICO Forums > Online Mechanic > Infiniti Online Mechanic > 1990 Q45 Brake Pad R&R (BRAKE PADS WORN)

Assuming the parking brake remains untouched, the parts list includes:

• Infiniti Q45 Front Brake Pads (Part #41060-64U91) $64.49
• Sensor & wire is included for the right inboard front pad
• Infiniti Q45 Rear Brake Pads (Part #41060-66U85) $56.24
• Sensor & wire is included for the right rear inboard pad
• Front Hardware Kit (Part #41080-60U27) $45.70
• Rear Hardware Kit (Part 44080-60U25) $45.70
• Packet of high temperature brake grease is included with each axle set
• 3-day ground shipping (via Airborne Express) $10.46
• Total: $222.59

Note the suggested front hardware kit contains:

• #41083-60U04 SPR-RET, PAD (4 pcs)
• #41083-60U05 SPR-RET, PAD (4 pcs)
• #41084-60U00 SHIM (4 pcs)
• #41085-60U00 SHIM-COVER, INNER (2 pcs)
• #41085-60U01 SHIM-COVER, OUTER (2 pcs)
• #41003-03P25 GREASE (2.5g)

While the suggested rear hardware kit contains:

• #44083-44F00 CLIP-PAD (4 pcs)
• #44084-60U00 SHIM-OUTER (2 pcs)
• #44084-60U01 SHIM-INNER (2 pcs)
• #44085-60U00 COVER-SHIM (2 pcs)
• #44086-60U00 SHIM-INSULATOR (2 pcs)
• #41003-03P25 GREASE (2.5g)

The suggested tool list includes:

• 12 mm box or open-end wrench (plus 12mm socket for torque wrench)
• 14 mm box or open-end wrench (plus 14mm socket for torque wrench)
• 17 mm box or open-end wrench (plus 17mm socket for torque wrench)
• 2 inch micrometer (for front rotor thickness test)
• 1 inch micrometer (for rear rotor thickness test)
• 0.0001 inch dial-gauge with vise-grip flex-arm jig (runout test)
• 12 inch chisel-end pry bar (for restraining front rotor)
• 12 inch claw-end pry bar (for turning rear rotor)
• torque wrench (up to 60 pound feet)
• disc brake spreader (preferably with two bolts; otherwise add a thin steel force-distribution plate)
• two cotton swabs (denuded of cotton)
• a dime & a felt-tip pen (to check scoring depth)
• 2-ton floor jack, at least 4 wheel chocks, & 2 adjustable jack stands
• BBS hubcap remover (BBS wheels only)
• Rubber mallet (for obstinate parts)
• Two 8mm x 1.25 mm/inch x 3 inch bolts (for removing the rotor from the hub)
• 13/16 inch lug nut wrench and socket (for torque wrench)
• two 12mm x 1.25mm/mm flat-ended (not tapered) steel nuts (optional)
• shop towel (to clean up brake fluid spills)
• TP wrapper (not the TP itself) to buff caliper pins smooth
• 2 large 12 inch tie wraps or steel wire (to hang calipers up)
• chalk (for marking tires, wheels, pads)
• Vacuum style pump (for one-person bleeding & lowering master cylinder fluid level)
• DOT 3 Brake fluid (for bleeding)

See the complete step-by-step in the aforementioned NICO thread.

[maxnix]

Make mine DOT4 - ATE Blue, specifically!__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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