New to the board.
I am considering doing a pad replacement on my 1990 240SX. Anyone here done that? Pointers? Tips? Special tools needed?
Thanks guys!
Brake job 1990
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RWDnot RICE
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 5:01 pm
- Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx SE
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Front or rear change..?
if you are doing a rear pad replacement i would get a pair of organic pads, mine were $18 at Advanced Auto.they brake really smoothly and won't warp the rotors like the metallics.(i got metallics first because autozone said that was what they required, but advance said that organics were specified by the manufacturer)After having to have my whole car on jack stands in my driveway for a day and a half to get the rotors turned i started to really hate autozone.
if you are doing a rear pad replacement i would get a pair of organic pads, mine were $18 at Advanced Auto.they brake really smoothly and won't warp the rotors like the metallics.(i got metallics first because autozone said that was what they required, but advance said that organics were specified by the manufacturer)After having to have my whole car on jack stands in my driveway for a day and a half to get the rotors turned i started to really hate autozone.
Metallic pads are more for performance driving and create less dust and usually more expensive. Organic pads squeal less, last longer and make less brake dust.
Replacing your pads is probably one of the easier things you can do by yourself:1) raise the car and support it with a jackstand then remove the wheel2) there are (2) 14mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the bracket, remove the top one and loosen the bottom one. The caliper should rotate now. Remove the old pads.3) open the hood, take cap off of brake master cylinder (if it is full, take a teaspoon and carefully remove some fluid so it doesnt spill out)4) for the front, take a big pair of pliers and gently squeeze the caliper piston back into the caliper (this forces the fluid back into the master cylinder, hence it spilling over if it was full)5) for rear, take some fairly sturdy needle nose pliers and turn the piston clockwise (while pushing) back into the caliper6) install new pads with the retaining clips7) replace the caliper and caliper bolts8) put your wheel back on and you are done.
If you see excessive scoring in your rotor you may want to have them turned. To do this you need to remove the (2) 17mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket onto the spindle. After that the rotor should pull right off. Firestone does this for about $5 a rotor.
Replacing your pads is probably one of the easier things you can do by yourself:1) raise the car and support it with a jackstand then remove the wheel2) there are (2) 14mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the bracket, remove the top one and loosen the bottom one. The caliper should rotate now. Remove the old pads.3) open the hood, take cap off of brake master cylinder (if it is full, take a teaspoon and carefully remove some fluid so it doesnt spill out)4) for the front, take a big pair of pliers and gently squeeze the caliper piston back into the caliper (this forces the fluid back into the master cylinder, hence it spilling over if it was full)5) for rear, take some fairly sturdy needle nose pliers and turn the piston clockwise (while pushing) back into the caliper6) install new pads with the retaining clips7) replace the caliper and caliper bolts8) put your wheel back on and you are done.
If you see excessive scoring in your rotor you may want to have them turned. To do this you need to remove the (2) 17mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket onto the spindle. After that the rotor should pull right off. Firestone does this for about $5 a rotor.
well finally i have to do it i got to wake up early an fix my brakes, they are shot i gota get a set of rotors an possibly calipers, the rear left is so tight its giving off the unmistakable burnt brake smell... im not sure as of yet if its seized or if i just didnt get the piston turned in enough. hopefully the latter of the two