hello, i just got somebrake fluid, speedbleeders, new rotors and pads from aXXis and am getting ready to install them. could you guys please help guide me?
materials?
Step by Step process?
from what i understand:
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove lower pin on caliper (not too sure what that is)
3. Slide caliper up
4. unscrew bolts from old rotor (what kind of bolts? reg or torsen?)
5.apply copper grease to hub to eliminate sticking
6. Put in new rotor
7. put in pads (not too sure here either)
8. put back caliper..?
9. aplly copper grease to center of rotor to prevent alloys from sticking
10. put back wheel
thanks to all who help
brake installation 101+
First of all, Nissan recommends replacing the shims for the brake pads whenever you change them. Now you'll also need some brake cleaner. Here's the procedure that I usually do, might be missing a few steps as my brain's fried after a midterm.FRONT:1. take off the wheel2. locate lower bolt on back of caliper and remove it, it may be hard to unbolt, put some wd-40 or some penetrating grease there and wait for it to go through. If you shear the bolt it's 8 bucks dealership...3. rotate the caliper up4. take off the old brake pads with shims (clean them with brake cleaner if you want to reuse them) Remember the shapes that were taken off. There should be one side with a spring thing and the other side without. Remember their order.5. unwrap the new brake pads and apply the grease to the back of them and between the shims in the order and according to which side they were taken from.7. get a small vise and a thin wood block. Put the thin wood block on the piston and put the vise around the caliper and wood block.8. on the back of the caliper you'll see a bleeder valve, put a brake bleeding hose there (brake fluid = highly corrosive) and open up the valve while someone compresses the vise on the piston. When the piston is in far enough close up the valve and rotate the caliper back down.9. put the bolt back in the lower part and torque it to 16-23lbs10. double check that no air is in the system by bleeding a bit more by depressing the brake pedal. By the way, don't let your brake fluid levels fall, keep an eye on that too.11. repeat to other side.
Rear:basically same as front but instead of the vise and wood block, rotate the piston around to compress it.
Rear:basically same as front but instead of the vise and wood block, rotate the piston around to compress it.
Well if it's raining yeah you should do that another day. Brake fluids love to suck up water. I should have researched that a bit more, well about the choice I made in particular. If you're going with the Motul RBF, be prepared to change your brake fluid pretty frequently as it loves to suck up water like a sponge. Super high boiling points, but just not worth it when it gets really wet. So I've decided to switch to ATE super blue when it comes around time to do it again as I can't afford Castrol SRF which runs around 80 bucks a liter and you cant mix it with other dot fluids...so that's 4 liters approx...coming to a ghastly 320 + shipping...OH MY!
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tapdeznutz
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sapix @ RHIT
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180fan, why are you using a vice? I just flushed my brake fluid and replaced my pads this last weekend and I didn't use a vice. To bleed the break, close the bleeder, have someone in the car pump the brake pedal and then hold it. While their holding it open the bleeder (be sure to have somewhere for the fluid to go) . Then close the valve and have the person in the car start over. This works well.Also, when your doing this, remember that the pistons in the calibars screw back up to their location. I took one all the way apart trying to figure this out, all cars I've done before the piston just pushed back. You'll need something to grip the piston with, and then just rotate it to push it back. Then you can put on new brake pads.
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ricebike
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2005 Altima - Location: CNJ
hmm, if you're replacing the rotors, you'll have to remove the upper sliding caliper bolt as well... don't let the caliper hang by the hose while you're changing the rotor... blast the caliper holes w/ some brakekleen and relube the sliding pins w/ some silicone grease.
i never heard of using copper grease to the hub/rotor to prevent them from sticking to each other. good to know in the future, but i never had problems w/ that.
you can rent the tool for free to compress the pistons back in the housing via autozone or other parts place... fronts' like a c-clamp & rears' w/ an adaptor to the piston face to turn clockwise & push in at the same time.
some people used needle nose pliers for the rears, but i find it easier using that tool or a tool called a "rubik's cube" w/ an extension n a rachet.http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46790
ps: in the rear pads there are indents to where they go into the piston...make sure u line them up correctly or they'll sit on the rotor crooked n make all kinds of noises...
pps: go w/ metal anti-squeal shims over that rubberized goo unless noise is ok w/ u
i never heard of using copper grease to the hub/rotor to prevent them from sticking to each other. good to know in the future, but i never had problems w/ that.
you can rent the tool for free to compress the pistons back in the housing via autozone or other parts place... fronts' like a c-clamp & rears' w/ an adaptor to the piston face to turn clockwise & push in at the same time.
some people used needle nose pliers for the rears, but i find it easier using that tool or a tool called a "rubik's cube" w/ an extension n a rachet.http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46790
ps: in the rear pads there are indents to where they go into the piston...make sure u line them up correctly or they'll sit on the rotor crooked n make all kinds of noises...
pps: go w/ metal anti-squeal shims over that rubberized goo unless noise is ok w/ u
The vise is to push in the front piston after you've installed the new brake pads. Try to rotate down the (without pushing in the piston) caliper after you've installed the new brake pad and you'll notice that it won't slide down into position. You could try to force it down, but I wouldn't recommend that. Use a vise to press in the piston after you've opened the bleeder valve so the piston will go into the caliper and then the caliper will fit over the brake pads and the rotor. I forgot the vise and did my brake pad job at a friends house so I pressed it in by hand after the bleeder valve was opened. I really don't recommend that as your hand will hurt afterwards... That is why I use a vise.
BTW the grease that Nissan packs with the hardware kits is a poly butyl cuprysil grease for the pads and shims. I really haven't seen any difference with the stuff that comes in little blue packs from Permatex or the stuff that is included with the nissan hardware kits. So that one is really your call, whatever is more convenient I suppose.
NOTE: remember proper bleeding order too, this should be done as a double check method to ensure no air is in your brake system. so you go from rear left to right, then front left to right, and if you've abs then front bleeder on the actuator to the rear actuator.
You might want to take this chance to change your brake fluid as well if you're gonna be down in there. Here's a tip for that, siphon out the fluid in your brake master cylinder clean it out of old brake fluid then pour in the new stuff (I'm changing from Motul to ATE Super Blue) and pump that stuff through your system using the proper bleeding method.
g'luck with the brake job.
BTW the grease that Nissan packs with the hardware kits is a poly butyl cuprysil grease for the pads and shims. I really haven't seen any difference with the stuff that comes in little blue packs from Permatex or the stuff that is included with the nissan hardware kits. So that one is really your call, whatever is more convenient I suppose.
NOTE: remember proper bleeding order too, this should be done as a double check method to ensure no air is in your brake system. so you go from rear left to right, then front left to right, and if you've abs then front bleeder on the actuator to the rear actuator.
You might want to take this chance to change your brake fluid as well if you're gonna be down in there. Here's a tip for that, siphon out the fluid in your brake master cylinder clean it out of old brake fluid then pour in the new stuff (I'm changing from Motul to ATE Super Blue) and pump that stuff through your system using the proper bleeding method.
g'luck with the brake job.
ok, i changed the front rotors and pads and bled them, but the brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor!?? what could i have overlooked?? also, do i have to bleed the rear brakes?? and all i am doing to change my fluid is pumpin out the old stuff anf filling it w/ the new stuff!! thanks so far guys!!
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Touchdown038
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You shouldn't have to bleed the rear brakes if you didn't change them yet. If the brake pedal goes to the floor and you've bled it to make sure there's no air, there might be a leak somewhere. Mine did that when I changed the brakes, and it turned out to be the master cylinder.... hope it's not the same for you.
BTW, the tool for the rear caliper pistons is like 10 bucks at NAPA instead of 30 bucks online at Harbor Freight.
BTW, the tool for the rear caliper pistons is like 10 bucks at NAPA instead of 30 bucks online at Harbor Freight.
Could also be that you didn't tighten the bleeder valves tight enough. Check them first as it's most likely than not going to be the culprit as that's the only place where fluid could escape that you fiddled with during the pad job. I would check there first, then sit with the car off, but press in the brake a bit, that should pressurize the system and you should see if there's a leak (that's aside from the master cylinder). If there's not sign of brake fluid around, you've got bubbles and you'll need to go through the proper bleeding order and make sure that there's no bubbles in your system before you close the valve, ask a buddy to help out with this.