This is a strange question, but is RB related. I have often seen people complain about the brakes on their 240's. I didn't have the original motor in my car for very long to use as a comparison.
Anyway to the point, my brakes work great now, and I was wondering if the RB25 vacuum pressure is greater than the KA was, and if that would have increased the braking ability.
Brake Booster
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NISMO_RB25
- Posts: 1066
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2003 4:40 am
- Car: 1992 240SX with RB25DET, 1987 RX-7 TII
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goofynick6
- Posts: 1216
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
- Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET
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trynam4size
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:57 pm
- Car: 240sx
Re: Brake Booster
Some information
===================
1) I know.. I know.. Risen from the dead.
2) Just to prove that I did some searching.
3) Problem that I'm facing now is. My brake(s) lock up after I drive for a while.
My suspicion includes: either one of these being at fault: brake booster, kink in the line, bad check valve.
*Auto to Manual.
=====================
To explain further, I have a reason to believe my brakes lock up because once I drive it for like a minute, and let the car (cruise [neutral])) it slows down drastically, [once stopped, and in neutral, I can't push the car with ease], and when feeling the wheels [all 4], the rims are very warm/hot.
This is what I have done so far, just to test.
Capped off stock intake manifold [brake booster location]. Redirected that pipe behind air filter [air filter --> mass air flow --> Pipe --> turbo (where --> == air flow)]
Now that brakes do not lock up, and I feel as though the brakes work better than without vacuum at all. Essentially, it feels better than a disconnected brake booster, but still NOT good enough for a sudden stop. Any thoughts?
From my understanding, the brake booster needs vacuum to "work," what happens if I had a bad check valve [I tried the blow/suck method, and it seems functional]. Is 7psi [yes 7 =)] too much for the check valve to handle? Would boosted air instead vacuumed air cause my symptoms of having locked brakes?]
Thanks guys and sorry for the long posts. I just try to give as much information as I can.
Namco
===================
1) I know.. I know.. Risen from the dead.
2) Just to prove that I did some searching.
3) Problem that I'm facing now is. My brake(s) lock up after I drive for a while.
My suspicion includes: either one of these being at fault: brake booster, kink in the line, bad check valve.
*Auto to Manual.
=====================
To explain further, I have a reason to believe my brakes lock up because once I drive it for like a minute, and let the car (cruise [neutral])) it slows down drastically, [once stopped, and in neutral, I can't push the car with ease], and when feeling the wheels [all 4], the rims are very warm/hot.
This is what I have done so far, just to test.
Capped off stock intake manifold [brake booster location]. Redirected that pipe behind air filter [air filter --> mass air flow --> Pipe --> turbo (where --> == air flow)]
Now that brakes do not lock up, and I feel as though the brakes work better than without vacuum at all. Essentially, it feels better than a disconnected brake booster, but still NOT good enough for a sudden stop. Any thoughts?
From my understanding, the brake booster needs vacuum to "work," what happens if I had a bad check valve [I tried the blow/suck method, and it seems functional]. Is 7psi [yes 7 =)] too much for the check valve to handle? Would boosted air instead vacuumed air cause my symptoms of having locked brakes?]
Thanks guys and sorry for the long posts. I just try to give as much information as I can.
Namco