Brads CA Swap

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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Shusaka
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Wiring harness issue i will look deep into it tomorrow


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wynnEZ
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Ok good I was worried about it....NOT.

WTF is this thread?

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BIGTIMER_240
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lol wtf

bradt
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It's so we can communicate since there is no PM function. We are working out some wiring issues with my recent build.

MastaYu
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bradt
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Don't like it, GTFO. Most people on this part of the boards seem kinda dumb anyway.

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ca18detgabby
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brad move this to the CA forums........ people little more patient there. also if you have issue we will be able to help ya.

just ask one of the cool mods...

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Hijacker
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Moving to the CA boards.

Why didn't you guys just use email?

bradt
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I have no clue, Randall suggested this as a kind of record of troubleshooting this insanely over-complicated issue.

I cannot believe just this one 8 pin plug can cause me this much of a problem.

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ca18detgabby
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maybe you could explian......... two heads are always better than one.......

3 heads are even better, even if one is tim's

mazikowski
Posts: 292
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Car: 2013 Subaru BRZ Ltd 6MT, 1984 CA20E 200sx, 1981 L28E 280ZX
Location: Huntsville, AL

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I had to rewire my CA16 harness... so maybe I could be of some use? Just give me a shout if you feel like adding a 4th head :P maybe me and tim could count as 1 head

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Shusaka
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sorry about posting to the improper forum, anyways brad for the S14 harness i believe the plug were trying to fix is connector F23, F11, Or E208, i have searched my fsm and those were the closest in resemblance to our problem plug, however i could not find a wiring color assignment for said plugs so yet again another night closer yet still dead in the water, i shall continue my search after about seven hours of sleep and ten hours of BMW filled fun, Peace

bradt
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Randall, I will be at a Todd Snider concert tonight, so I have no clue when I will be available. I will probably be down to work on it afterwards though.

All interested: The gray 8 pin plug for the body harness is the concern at hand. It was used to hook a CA in an S14, so I am basically backtracking and making it work for an S14. The plug is obviously the power supply to the ECU, so I am trying to find which wire goes to which pin so I can swap what is necessary. If all is well, then this will get my car running.

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Shusaka
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so i decided to drift tonight as opposed to searching for a proper wiring schematic to my "accused" plug, but now i feel less like a douche beings as you were at a concert. and the diff works great in first but i get too much traction is second and bog but high speed in second and circling in first is amazing now, a new love/hate relationship has been formed with my car
Modified by Shusaka at 11:14 PM 12/13/2008

mazikowski
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Randall, just throw a CA in there and shut up :P

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Shusaka
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I have no cash or i would, if i could find one outta an rps13 180sx piggy, but im still undecided, CA or SR...blah

bradt
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Randall, sending the harnesses off to Houston, so no need for any more research.

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Shusaka
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ok groovy but i hate you i spent the last four hours searching and googling those connectors for schematics and burning my retinas with my computer monitor staring down an fsm, but hey problem solved cool

bradt
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UPDATE!!!!!!!

OK, I replaced the MAF and ECU and still have limp symptoms. I believe I have it narrowed down to the TPS. I checked voltage on the harness pins and the middle pin is giving me a constant 11.87 V while the others are giving none. I have not tested a bad TPS before so if anyone can give me some guidance, that would be great. I really need this thing running soon before I take some serious explosives to it.
Modified by bradt at 10:54 AM 12/26/2008

mod_mastaz
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 12:13 pm

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The TPS signal wire should output .45volts closed and 4.5volts fully open. The wire that's giving you 11.87 volts is the power wire for the TPS. You can't just check the harness, you need to back probe it or check the signal wire leading back to the ECU. Basically the TPS has to be plugged up to check it. What symptoms do you have?

bradt
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plugged up, and modulating the throttle by hand, I never read more than 50 mV on the signal wire.

bradt
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The car is still in limp mode bad. It is very hard to start (have to modulate the throttle a lot) and will not idle. When I lift off the gas the car just dies. Wiring harness was JUST redone too....

bradt
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I got a new video camera for christmas so I am uploading a vid of the car on startup to hopefully give you guys an idea of whats going on....

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Shusaka
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Dammit i want the CA to live

bradt
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfdid-3oE5Q

^Video of said Problem^

Anyway, tested the TPS properly and read correct voltage, so today I am looking at CAS and temp sensor.

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float_6969
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Have you tried pulling the codes? If you're in limp mode you HAVE to be throwing a code, otherwise you have a bad ECU or you're not limp mode.

TPS won't put you in limp mode. IIRC the MAFS, CAS, and coolant temp sensor are the only sensors that put you in limp mode.

mazikowski
Posts: 292
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Car: 2013 Subaru BRZ Ltd 6MT, 1984 CA20E 200sx, 1981 L28E 280ZX
Location: Huntsville, AL

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Damn... and I thought my problems were bad (bad CAS). Like Ryan said, check the fault codes, they are really helpful

I need to get out there sometime to have a look at your car (and so you can check out mine)!

mod_mastaz
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 12:13 pm

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If you haven't done so, replace the coolant temp sensor. Those are OLD and could be out of spec. Besides, you can rule out another major sensor if you replace it anyway. Make sure you get a OEM NISSAN coolant temperature sensor, NOT the sender.

As for other possible issues, have you checked to make sure your gas tank is cleaned/good? I bought my car non running and the gas tank was rusted badly, which in turn clogged all of the injectors and I had to get them all cleaned.

Have you replaced any other sensors or checked to see if you have a vac leak anywhere?

bradt
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Just replaced MAF. Replaced CAS as well, about to replace the coolant sensors (never thought about it before, but these could definitely be the culprit) as soon as I run to buy em. This car was driven daily before the swap, so the tank is in good condition. I am checking all vac lines as well.

On a side note, my room-mate is putting on some Peak Performance Tension Rods, and those things are SICK! I need to pick some up after the car is running straight.

bradt
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ECU threw a code 34 after checking other things. Hooked up another knock sensor and got code 55 (finally). Still seeing symptoms, so I am leaning heavily towards vac lines. Possibly the butterflies? I am trying to route properly so hopefully I will have this thing going by tonight.....


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