BOV help

[shane_lxi]

I have got an old style hks bov that I recently bought off of a friend. I know that when you install a atmospheric bov on a car equiped with a maf sensor then it will not run right. I understand that the sudden drop of pressure and loss of air between the maf an the intake causes the car to put enough fuel to accomodate all the pressure that you just expelled into the atmosphere, and thus cause the car to run uber rich, etc. So don't flame me, I already have read and understand all the reasons why a atmospheric bov is not ideal for a ca18det.

However, I have read that some of you run them, and learn to deal with your car suddenly bogging down at stops, which makes me wonder if I installed mine wrong.

The reason being, my car dies everytime my vehicle comes to a stop with the bov hooked up. It has a rough idle while making no boost at all as well. This make me think I might have hooked it up wrong or whatever. So please hear me out . I hooked the one port for a vacuum line up to the same source of vaccuum as the wastegate, this seems to work great, and when driving, I can recover boost from shifting SOOO much quicker, really a great thing, until I stop, then the car dies. I thought it would bog down alot, but not this much. So I turned my idle up a bit, from 800 to 1200 rpms, and it didn't help at all. Perhaps it is because I am runnning too much boost? or not enough. I am currently running between 6 and 8 psi, depending on temperature. Tell me if I hooked it up wrong, or suggest where a better source of vacuum might be found please:D. I am currently working on making a flange to recirculate it, but I am really not sure if this will work :P, thanks alot uys .

ps: I am running 440cc injectors, a t28, an apexi afc (I already messed with it, and it doesn't change a thing, still dies when I stop ), and a factory sidemount intercooler, if you think this would effect it at all.

[c-rad]

It only runs rich for a fraction of a second so driveability is not really affected. Where did you get your vacuum source from?

[Indecisive]

Quote »I hooked the one port for a vacuum line up to the same source of vaccuum as the wastegate,[/quote]Dunno if it'll make any difference, but for a BOV, I've been told to take the vac source off the manifold.

Are you sure your BOV is sealing properly and not open and venting when you come to a stop?

crank down on the adjusting nut(if it has one) or put in more washers(if it doesn't have an adjusting nut) and see if that helps.

When I first put my BOV on, I had a bit of trouble with idle cause the piston would vibrate, and I guess let out some air. added some washers to stiffen up the spring and it went away.

I doubt this is your problem, but going to the easy/free solutions first is always a good idea.

[damesta]

That is really common problem with atmospheric bov's on any maf based engine. Your vaccum line is hooked up fine, you may want to try to run it directly from the intake manifold but I doubt it will make a difference. There are 3 main things you can do to solve the problem:

1. Run a blow through maf setup(put your maf on the coldpipe)

2. Get use to taking the car out of gear and feather the gas whenever your braking and coming to complete stop, just give it enough gas to keep it idling

3. Figure out a way to recirculate the bov.

[rico05]

I run a vented HKS SSQV old style (single vac source) and with it properly adjusted, I get a little stumble if I shift slow but nothing if I am really getting on it, and a ROCK SOLID idle. Adjust it and it should be fine.

Now, with my old ARC Type 3 (which is designed not to be vented) idle sucked and shifts were really messy,

PS: Shane_lxi you might want to contact CarDomain....your page is screwing up and I want to see pics lol.

[shane_lxi]

^it worked fine for me earlier, hmm?

Back on topic, lol .

I figured out today that this bov is the old school jdm hks NON-ADJUSTABLE style, which means there is supposed to be another vacuum source plugged into the back of the bov to hold the valve closed

After researching that, I noticed that there is a nipple broken off the back of the bov, so there is supposed to be TWO vacuum sources up to it. I jb welded a nipple on there today, and it holds the valve closed just fine, but it won't release now!! Which makes me think about my vacuum source choice... am I supposed to be plugging this into a source of CONSTANT vacuum like it is right now, or a source of vacuum that only "sucks" upon giving the vehicle throttle? Anyway, I don't know.

Here's a pic of the same bov I have, only fitted to a rb20, to give you an idea of what I am working with :P


Modified by shane_lxi at 10:48 PM 7/26/2006

[c-rad]

No no no.... you dont need two vac sources hooked up to it. The Greddys all come like that too. Just run a single vac line to the port on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. That's all you need to do. If it still doesn't work, there is a good chance the BOV is leaking. My HKS SSQV started leaking pretty bad and ended up being a paperweight.

[shane_lxi]

That's wierd then. Why would they have two hooked up in the pic?

[c-rad]

That's wierd then. Why would they have two hooked up in the pic?

That's what Google turned up.

"Notes: Contains a second port to help prevent leaking under high boost."

[UMS_CA18DET]

umm I think thats a illusion, if you see that line runs to the charcoal canister.

[shane_lxi]

lol, then I guess it's leaking then. I tried every combo of just about every vacuum port I could think of, as well as messed with my afc to try and make up for the excess fuel it gets, nothing... so eff it, lol. It was just 20 bucks. I'll just find a recirculating bov and do it right way next time .

[UMS_CA18DET]

grab a 1g dsm bov, cheap, and awesome to boot.

[c-rad]

grab a 1g dsm bov, cheap, and awesome to boot.

+1.

Ideal for 17psi or less applications. Anything more and they need to be crushed (literally).

[Darius2250]

I had that same BOV what I noticed is that at idle it would "pulse". I tried several thing to stop this but nothing worked, I read somwhere to try a 1 way valve to stop it, can't remember where I heard it though. I ended up getting a greddy type RS and everything seems fine now.

[1via]

I had that same BOV what I noticed is that at idle it would "pulse". I tried several thing to stop this but nothing worked, I read somwhere to try a 1 way valve to stop it, can't remember where I heard it though. I ended up getting a greddy type RS and everything seems fine now.

Not to jack this man thread but how loud is that Greddy type rs bov? I brought mine new for $80 bucks. Havent installed it yet.

[Darius2250]

it's pretty loud, I am going to recerc it soo, but it does resinate well

[CaEric]

dude iam runninga 1gen dms bov and i have no problem with idel or it stalling out on me !

[1via]

it's pretty loud, I am going to recerc it soo, but it does resinate well

Yeah thats what I am going to be doing with mine. Thanks

[splintercell]

i bought a SARD r2d2 bov, my engine is still being worked on. will i run into the same problem. i do believe mine is not a recirculating bov. what could i do to make it one?