Bought used 2001 i30t - Needs some TLC

[Infinit_i30t]

Hello ladies and gents,

I'm new to Infiniti, and new to this forum, so I'd like to say hello to everyone. I'm working in Alberta, Canada at the moment.

I recently bought a used 2001i30t with 95K miles for my girlfriend, and to say the least it was not taken care of. I thought I'd share my adventures thus far.

Seller's Disclosure:

-> Cracked windshield side-to-side (replaced for $360)
-> Erratic idle, especially when cold, but runs well.
-> Bought a new MAF sensor, comes with the vehicle.
-> Probably needs new struts and breaks.

Engine Oil:

-> Changed the engine oil. Probably the dirtiest engine oil I've ever seen in a vehicle. When I saw this pitch black liquid ooze from the engine, my first thought was "this is not good at all..." What a crying shame that someone would do that to such a beautiful engine/car.
-> Canadian Tire had a smoking deal on some engine oil and filters, so I put new oil and filter on, along with Seafoam engine cleaner and drove it lightly for about 5Km and let the engine oil sit overnight. Next morning I started the car, let her warm up for about 15 minutes, and drained the engine oil again. The second time around it was still dark brown, but much better than the first.
-> I then added Mobil 1 synthetic along with an synthetic oil filter. Peace of mind, knowing that the engine has some clean fluids now.

Transmission Fluid:

-> The car was hard-shifting, and I've had a lot of success with Seafoam transmission cleaner in the past, so I added 1/2 can and will drive lightly for about 200km and then change the transmission fluid at the same time I change my transmission filter.
-> It's been two weeks since we've had the vehicle, and already the transmission is shifting smooth as butter. A very noticeable difference from previous neglectful owner.

Other Repairs:

Here's my shopping list for some much needed maintenance, should be here in a couple weeks:



CEL & Diagnostic Codes:

Here are the diagnostic codes that scared the previous owner away:



Here's how all of those codes went away all at once after reading through the EC manual on "gross vacuum leaks":



Field Service Manual came in very handy:



The previous owner must have replaced the gas cap with a non-OEM gas cap, which then triggered all sorts of other codes:



There's still a rough idle issue, but I have still yet to diagnose the vacuum lines from the gas tank, and chase any leaks back to the engine. I'll post more photos when I diagnose the rough idle, and when I receive my parts in a couple weeks.

Here's some pics of a nice Infiniti that just needed some TLC:

[jbracy7]

welcome to nico,the carforce is strong with you. u will do well here

[NutriaforBreakfast]

That Mobil 1 will further clean your engine -it might even stop up your oil filter with the removed gunk
You might change just the filter again after 1000 miles or so
I use the OEM filter from Nissan since it has a bypass valve on it just in case the filter gets stopped up

I would consider looking at the old plugs and putting in a new set at the next oil change.
If an electrode is burned off make a note to maybe sell the car!
Would use plugs from the dealership
I have run seafoam through the hose that provides vacuum to the brakes to clean carbon off the top of the piston heads.
No need to redline the engine but you will get some black smoke.
Then i put in the new plugs

Might want to dump in some Chevron Techron fuel additive in case of water problems for the fuel tank
I would consider also changine the fuel filter.

Put on a new belt for the AC/Alternator

Hopefully your O2 sensors will hold up for a little while longer. When the time comes i recommend Bosch-i have
used them in both of my maximas and have had no trouble with them.

You might check your antifreeze hoses to make sure they are not brittle-same way with the vacuum hoses.
I run pure antifreeze here in Dallas TX so there is little water or rust in my coolant system. You might do
what the manufacturer of the car says though.

Clean the carbon off throttle body and the throttle plate with a SMALL shot of carb cleaner or electronic cleaner

Look at the FSM and you can find the EGR valve -spray a little electronic cleaner on the diaphram to keep it loose

I also get electric tape and clean and tape any wires exposed to the hot engine or to water splashing, especially those close to the battery
Don' t go overboard pulling the wires because you do want to break any.

A good set of safety shields will help keep water and other objects out of the engine bay. You can buy
ceramic compounds at Orielly's auto supply which will patch a cracked safety shield.

I actually overhauled the control arms, tie rods, and and inner tie rods and camber bolts for about $500. If your front end won't line
up well, you might change all of this out at once then line it up.

Good luck!

[Infinit_i30t]

That Mobil 1 will further clean your engine -it might even stop up your oil filter with the removed gunk
You might change just the filter again after 1000 miles or so
I use the OEM filter from Nissan since it has a bypass valve on it just in case the filter gets stopped up

I would consider looking at the old plugs and putting in a new set at the next oil change.
If an electrode is burned off make a note to maybe sell the car!
Would use plugs from the dealership
I have run seafoam through the hose that provides vacuum to the brakes to clean carbon off the top of the piston heads.
No need to redline the engine but you will get some black smoke.
Then i put in the new plugs

Might want to dump in some Chevron Techron fuel additive in case of water problems for the fuel tank
I would consider also changine the fuel filter.

Put on a new belt for the AC/Alternator

Hopefully your O2 sensors will hold up for a little while longer. When the time comes i recommend Bosch-i have
used them in both of my maximas and have had no trouble with them.

You might check your antifreeze hoses to make sure they are not brittle-same way with the vacuum hoses.
I run pure antifreeze here in Dallas TX so there is little water or rust in my coolant system. You might do
what the manufacturer of the car says though.

Clean the carbon off throttle body and the throttle plate with a SMALL shot of carb cleaner or electronic cleaner

Look at the FSM and you can find the EGR valve -spray a little electronic cleaner on the diaphram to keep it loose

I also get electric tape and clean and tape any wires exposed to the hot engine or to water splashing, especially those close to the battery
Don' t go overboard pulling the wires because you do want to break any.

A good set of safety shields will help keep water and other objects out of the engine bay. You can buy
ceramic compounds at Orielly's auto supply which will patch a cracked safety shield.

I actually overhauled the control arms, tie rods, and and inner tie rods and camber bolts for about $500. If your front end won't line
up well, you might change all of this out at once then line it up.

Good luck!

Excellent suggestions, thank you!

I'm on vacation right now, but I'll take up your suggestions when I make my next parts order.

I'll be taking some more pictures of my shocks/bearings/brakes in about a month from now.

Mike

[AZhitman]

BEST thread of the month. Welcome aboard!

Deferred maintenance and upkeep always lands in SOMEONE'S lap, but in this case, you've got a great car (I'm a big fan of the '01 i35).

Don't overlook places like Amazon for replacement parts - I have had great luck getting stuff at a big discount there.

Glad to have you - Let us know if we can help at all!