Bought my first Z32!

The Nissan 300ZX (Z32) general community discussion forum
poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

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Hi Friends, new to the forum.

After 15 years of wanting one, I finally purchased my first 300zx. :crazy: :yesnod :chuckle: :mike Its a 1992 NA 2+2. I'm super stoked on it. It's in pretty rough shape, but I got it for a steal, and I always wanted one that I could fix up and work on. Car definitely needs some TLC, car doesn't run so strong, A/C doesn't work, windows need new motors, etc. I really have little experience doing anything on a car outside of oil changes, etc., but I thought "why not learn on a car that I absolutely love?".

I'm sure I can find some answers here by digging through old posts, but I wanted to ask, what things do you guys suggest I look into first? I've heard hoses, etc. Things that are fairly basic and easy that I could do on my own?

Other then that, anyone know any reputable shops in the Orange County/Los Angeles/ San Diego area that you've had great experiences with fixing your Z's?

Thanks guys!


itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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Start by reading "everything you need to know about the Z32" post and Z32 wiki site.
For items you don't want to do your self, contact Specialty Z in Chatsworth, CA

And "welcome"

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

itsa300zx wrote:Start by reading "everything you need to know about the Z32" post and Z32 wiki site.
For items you don't want to do your self, contact Specialty Z in Chatsworth, CA

And "welcome"

Thanks!

Basher77
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:03 am
Car: 1996 Nissan 300zx 2+2 (NA)
Stillen catback exhaust
Location: Hopkins SC

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Congrats on the new car! You better get your wallet out though!! Lol
These cars aren't cheap or easy to work on especially if you don't have much experience working on cars. There are lots of helpful people on this forum who can offer some guidance but these cars are not for you average backyard mechanic!! I recently completed my first plenum pull and let me tell you it was a real treat!!!! If I didn't have a brother who is a mechanic I don't know if I could have done it alone. I am not trying to scare you but I don't want you to think that just anyone can work on these cars. I wish you luck and keep us posted

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

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Congrats on the new car!!!

I agree with most of what Basher said. Especially if this is your only/daily driver.

I'm pretty good with a wrench, no auto tech by any means, and it didn't take me too many $1000+ trips to the shop to decide if I was going to keep my Z I was going to have to learn to do most/a lot of the work myself. Lots of expensive stuff can go wrong with a 21 year old car. I got my Z for $2500, and have put nearly $4000 into it ... mostly just trying to get it running right (the biggest chunk went to getting the 120K work done). And I'm not there yet...

That said, this site is great for help. I've learned a ton already about this car (I've had mine since April).

Google is definitely your friend. It is amazing what you can find.

Youtube has tons of great videos on car repair, with lots of 300zx specific videos too.

As far as what to do first... do you know if the timing best has been replaced recently? These cars have what is referred to as an "interference engine" - which basically means the pistons will smash the valves if the timing belt breaks. You DO NOT want that to happen. I bought my car with no history (dumb dumb dumb move) so I had that done the first week. Like I said, that ain't cheap. If I knew then what I knew now, I would have done it myself and could have saved a ton, but at the time I was very gun shy about digging into the engine bay.

If it sounds like I'm trying to scare you... well I am a little. I want to make sure your aware of what you may be getting into with your car.

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

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Some quick things to check...

Check the ECU for codes. There is info on the wiki that will tell you how to do it, it isn't hard. Codes normally mean some sensor isn't working right. It could be the sensor, but it could also mean the connection is crudy. I'd start by cleaning the connectors as they are often green and nasty. Note the car can be running terrible without any codes showing up.

See if all the cylinders are firing by pulling the coil pack connectors 1 by 1 on the car while it is running. The rpms should drop a bit for each one. If it doesn't, that cylinder isn't firing for some reason.

Listen to each fuel injector w/ a long screwdriver touching the top of the injector and the other end to your ear. You should be able to hear it clicking. Listen to each, if one isn't clicking then the fuel injector isn't working right. You can measure the resistance across them ("ohm them out") and see if they are in the right spec. Too high or too low would mean the injector isn't working right. Again, these connectors are also prone to cruding up.

Make sure all the fuel lines are tight! These cars have a tendency to leak gas on the engine - which could cause your car to catch fire! I posted some info on how to do that and a great video on my blog - http://300zx-z32.thatsmysite.com/how-to ... el-clamps/ Again, very easy fix, but you need to check this every fall/winter.. and make sure you find them all as some are not real obvious. The video in my link shows you where each one is located.

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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Welcome. Go ahead and review then bookmark these as well:
http://z32.wikispaces.com/
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/z32faq.aspx

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300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

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Welcome! Post pics!

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

Thank you Nexus and everyone else for your input and advice!

Pics coming soon!

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

nexus08 wrote:Congrats on the new car!!!

I agree with most of what Basher said. Especially if this is your only/daily driver.

I'm pretty good with a wrench, no auto tech by any means, and it didn't take me too many $1000+ trips to the shop to decide if I was going to keep my Z I was going to have to learn to do most/a lot of the work myself. Lots of expensive stuff can go wrong with a 21 year old car. I got my Z for $2500, and have put nearly $4000 into it ... mostly just trying to get it running right (the biggest chunk went to getting the 120K work done). And I'm not there yet...

That said, this site is great for help. I've learned a ton already about this car (I've had mine since April).

Google is definitely your friend. It is amazing what you can find.

Youtube has tons of great videos on car repair, with lots of 300zx specific videos too.

As far as what to do first... do you know if the timing best has been replaced recently? These cars have what is referred to as an "interference engine" - which basically means the pistons will smash the valves if the timing belt breaks. You DO NOT want that to happen. I bought my car with no history (dumb dumb dumb move) so I had that done the first week. Like I said, that ain't cheap. If I knew then what I knew now, I would have done it myself and could have saved a ton, but at the time I was very gun shy about digging into the engine bay.

If it sounds like I'm trying to scare you... well I am a little. I want to make sure your aware of what you may be getting into with your car.

Yes the timing belt has been replaced recently, as well as a new clutch and refurbished flywheel.

z32loverboy
Posts: 516
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:05 pm
Car: 1990 300zx CRP N/A 5 Speed (wreaked, now a shell) SOLD

1993 Slicktop CRP N/A 5 Speed w/ '90 built N/A motor and interior

1958 Ford f-100 straight-body (Grandaddies truck, resto-project)
Location: Nashville, TN

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That's a pretty good plus^. Basically what they've been saying is that this engine ain't no ka24de in a 240sx. It's abnormally over engineered and the car was built around the engine so there's no engine bay space. But it's not rocket science to work on either, you just have to do your research on it.

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

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poikle27 wrote: Yes the timing belt has been replaced recently, as well as a new clutch and refurbished flywheel.
Excellent!

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300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

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Still waiting on pics! :chuckle:

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

300ZXttZMAN wrote:Still waiting on pics! :chuckle:
:werd:

Had to park it somewhere to make room for it at my place (I currently live in apartments).

Gonna go grab it on Saturday, and will upload pics then :woot:

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Welcome, looks like you're not scared which is good- once you dig in the first time fear is not an option! :chuckle:
Lots of good help is out there and we have a bunch of good guys here who know a LOT about these cars, let's see what you got! :bigthumb:

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

Here are some pics!

Drove it home, about 80 miles. Runs a lot stronger than I thought it would on such a long drive. It idles very quiet and nice, and has a lot of power opening it up on the freeway. Car's louder than I like, but I think that can be fixed by switching the exhausts. I'm already in love, gonna make sure shes back to her original awesomeness! :mike :naughty:

Inside is completely gutted, I wont make you guys sad by showing you pictures of it, but windows don't work, stereo system is completely gutted, and the leather definitely needs to be replaced on the seats. However, the T-tops are in great condition, no leaks, confirmed as I drove it home in the rain.

The bad, I'm sure its leaking transmission fluid. Gonna check it out next week when I have time to work on the car, and I'll update you guys then.

It needs new paint BADLY. Its chipping everywhere on the car. What do you guys think, keep it its original grey, or paint black or red?

Also, not a fan of the spoiler, so gonna rip that off as soon as I get the chance.

A pic of my G37 coupe at the end, cuz thats my other baby :biggrin:

Image

Image

Image

Image

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

oh yea btw,

for those of you wondering, I definitely did my homework and got the carfax etc.

155K on the odometer, car needs a lot of work, but I think its in pretty decent shape for getting it for $1000

:woot:

z32loverboy
Posts: 516
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:05 pm
Car: 1990 300zx CRP N/A 5 Speed (wreaked, now a shell) SOLD

1993 Slicktop CRP N/A 5 Speed w/ '90 built N/A motor and interior

1958 Ford f-100 straight-body (Grandaddies truck, resto-project)
Location: Nashville, TN

Post

I'd either keep it original paint color, Cherry Red pearl stock Z32 color, go with Subie dark blue or a pearlesent(sp?) color. Those would be my choices but it's up to you.

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

Post

poikle27 wrote:oh yea btw,

for those of you wondering, I definitely did my homework and got the carfax etc.

155K on the odometer, car needs a lot of work, but I think its in pretty decent shape for getting it for $1000

:woot:
Nice.

Both windows don't work?

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

nexus08 wrote:
poikle27 wrote:oh yea btw,

for those of you wondering, I definitely did my homework and got the carfax etc.

155K on the odometer, car needs a lot of work, but I think its in pretty decent shape for getting it for $1000

:woot:
Nice.

Both windows don't work?

Yes both windows don't work :gotme

Do you guys know if that's an easy fix?

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

Update:

Hey guys, went to move my car yesterday, and noticed it was leaking more than i originally thought. Called a buddy of mine, who recommended a shop to check it out.

Went to the shop, they put it up on the lift and :ohno: .. oil on everything :sad: Kind of realized I might be in over my head a bit, so I decided to let the professionals take care of it. I'm sure you see tons of guys come on this forum and then disappear quickly. I'm fully committed, and thus decided to let them do some work on the car. It's gonna be a long process, but like I said, I'm committed to be a part of the Z32 community. :biggrin:

Here's a list of the damage:

-new valve cover gasket
-new oil pan gasket
-rear main seal
-new front struts
-cam seals
-crank seal
-trans mount
-spark plugs
-engine mounts
-throw in a tune up and replace rear brake pads

This all of which, will be done with removing the engine from the bay. :ohno:

I will be asking for a lot of help in the coming months, as I redo the interior, so thank you guys in advance for your help! :bigthumb:

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

Post

poikle27 wrote:
Yes both windows don't work :gotme

Do you guys know if that's an easy fix?
If neither side works, I'd suspect a fuse.

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nexus08
Posts: 319
Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:38 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX NA
Location: Holly Springs, NC

Post

poikle27 wrote:Update:

Hey guys, went to move my car yesterday, and noticed it was leaking more than i originally thought. Called a buddy of mine, who recommended a shop to check it out.

Went to the shop, they put it up on the lift and :ohno: .. oil on everything :sad: Kind of realized I might be in over my head a bit, so I decided to let the professionals take care of it. I'm sure you see tons of guys come on this forum and then disappear quickly. I'm fully committed, and thus decided to let them do some work on the car. It's gonna be a long process, but like I said, I'm committed to be a part of the Z32 community. :biggrin:

Here's a list of the damage:

-new valve cover gasket
-new oil pan gasket
-rear main seal
-new front struts
-cam seals
-crank seal
-trans mount
-spark plugs
-engine mounts
-throw in a tune up and replace rear brake pads

This all of which, will be done with removing the engine from the bay. :ohno:

I will be asking for a lot of help in the coming months, as I redo the interior, so thank you guys in advance for your help! :bigthumb:
That sounds very expensive if done by a shop. They giving you a not to exceed price? Or just an estimate. Some shops get your car, tear it apart, and then tell you it is 2x what they quoted you because x, y, and z.

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

nexus08 wrote:
poikle27 wrote:
Yes both windows don't work :gotme

Do you guys know if that's an easy fix?
If neither side works, I'd suspect a fuse.
Thanks Nexus! Will investigate and get back to you!

poikle27
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:39 pm
Car: 2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe
1992 Nissan 300zx NA 2+2
Location: Orange County, CA

Post

nexus08 wrote:
poikle27 wrote:Update:

Hey guys, went to move my car yesterday, and noticed it was leaking more than i originally thought. Called a buddy of mine, who recommended a shop to check it out.

Went to the shop, they put it up on the lift and :ohno: .. oil on everything :sad: Kind of realized I might be in over my head a bit, so I decided to let the professionals take care of it. I'm sure you see tons of guys come on this forum and then disappear quickly. I'm fully committed, and thus decided to let them do some work on the car. It's gonna be a long process, but like I said, I'm committed to be a part of the Z32 community. :biggrin:

Here's a list of the damage:

-new valve cover gasket
-new oil pan gasket
-rear main seal
-new front struts
-cam seals
-crank seal
-trans mount
-spark plugs
-engine mounts
-throw in a tune up and replace rear brake pads

This all of which, will be done with removing the engine from the bay. :ohno:

I will be asking for a lot of help in the coming months, as I redo the interior, so thank you guys in advance for your help! :bigthumb:
That sounds very expensive if done by a shop. They giving you a not to exceed price? Or just an estimate. Some shops get your car, tear it apart, and then tell you it is 2x what they quoted you because x, y, and z.

Honestly, I lucked out because I know a guy who is friend's with the shop owner, keeping the damage minimal. Also, my friend swears this guy is a very good mechanic. This work will not exceed $2k

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Wow, $2K for all of that with engine out is a pretty good deal.
Hopefully you have some input with the shop given what you said, read up on the common deletes for the Z32 at TT.net or Robo's site and see if you can get some of them done while your engine is out- specifically the EGR delete, and under-plenum water/vacuum lines bypass/delete at minimum, and other stuff if you decide to do so after reading up.
This will do you or your mechanic a serious favor for any future engine work in time savings when removing the upper plenum, and remove future possible water and vacuum leaks under the plenum.
Plenum pull and bypass- http://www.fairladyz32.com/downloads/im ... umpull.pdf
Plenum pull and PRVR bypass, Robo site (bookmark!) http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/16304.html

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Here's some more stuff you will want to know, have fun! :chuckle:
http://www.ttxtz.com/tech.html


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