Some updates for folks without Facebook:
Engine cleaned up, tuned, and put back together. That is the stock location for the spare. It makes a great toolbox holder as well.
The rear axle and suspension, driver side head, and exhaust. That metal duct is for the heater core; instead of heating cabin air with hot coolant, it uses hot air off each head. The ducting should be rubber hose, but I haven't had a chance to replace it (the heater core isn't easy to get to).
Closer view of the head and diff, with the hot air ducting removed. You can see the intake manifold above the painted valve cover. The diagonal straight bar running from the red flashlight up toward the right above the heater duct flange is the throttle linkage. It comes out on the driver side of the engine bay where it connects at the right side of the driver side carb, and links with the cross-bar that connects to the passenger side carb (all of this can be seen in that enginebay photo). The carbs are both the same, they're just rotated 180* from each-other.
The exhaust is an aftermarket setup with a glasspack and resonator on each side. Stock exhaust was a single muffler/tip on the passenger side, with a crossover in front of (toward the transaxle) the engine. No crossover pipe with this setup (though some people add it, and I've given it some thought).
Transaxle (actually semi-separate transmission and differential). The Trans is on the left, forwardmost of the powertrain stack. It's VERY tiny. The diff is on the right, between the trans and engine. It's also tiny. No CV joints here, just universal joints with easy-to-replace bushings. You can see the stamping on the diff showing the configuration (HB in this case: 3.55 without positraction) and manufacture date (6th day of June 1962). Really early models like mine have drain plugs for both trans and diff; you can see them facing each-other on the lower near corners of each (the diff's just below and left of that stamping). Also visible is the forward part of the same angled throttle linkage. It connects at that stamped Z-bar where the forward action of the pedal is reversed before it links to the carb. The oil is all coming from the seal for the transmission input shaft, which you can see along with the stock shift coupler (the cylinder that looks kind of like a U-joint that disappears into the trans housing just left/ahead of the oily mess). Stock shift couplers have rubber isolator bushings between the actual input shaft and the section of shaft that goes forward to the shifter. This reduces shifter vibration, but makes things REALLY sloppy, especially as the rubber wears. Billet (bushing-less) or nylon bushing models exist which tighten things up a lot at the expense of a little shifter vibration, and I'll probably witch to one of those when I replace that seal.
Here's the car after its first car wash. Front bumper still doesn't fit as the driver side fender is collapsed at the front corner from a collision (before I bought it). Once that's fixed I'll put the bumper back on. There are very very very rare split bumpers that were made by a couple companies and look great, but I doubt I'll find any for anything resembling a reasonable price.
And last night in the snow! One of the weird quirks of a rear-engine car is that instead of engine heat thawing the hood, the cold winter air over the hood freezes any rain and snow just doesn't melt off, so you want to brush it if it's light or you'll just get a windshield full as soon as you start driving.