Bottom end break down help. Crank stuck in block. Doh'

[HighwayStar22]

I started to finish the full breakdown of the extra CA I got from Ed in VA back in Feb. Motor had serious water intrusion in 2, 3, and 4 when I got the head off to have a look see the first time I got it home to FL.

The cams have a decent amount of flash rust, but that will come off when I polish those like the last ones from the motor I just finished building.

Pistons + walls had heavy amounts of rust build up. I didn't want to break down the bottom end and risk heavily scoring a wall up with the buildup in rust. I've done that once, and now I have a spare block that needs a huge overbore, or needs to be sleeved. I soaked each cylinder in Marvel Mystery Oil. I've done this before on smaller engines that have seized (Go-ped, go-karts, lawnmower motors). I let it sit for a bit and slowy began to break down the rust build up by hand and with a flat tip screwdriver. Got the big stuff out, and then let it sit for a month more.... mainly cause I was busy doing randomness.

This leads me where I am now. Almost all of the rust buildup had been dissolved and I cleaned the rest out, making way to pull the rest of the bottom end apart. I got stuck on the crank sprocket. I managed to pry the other one off on the previous motor, but this one will not budge. I torched it for a while to see if the heat would get it to loosen, and it won't. I took a pause and continued breaking the rest of the motor down. Girdle, main caps, rear main, pistons and rods; it's all out of the block. I unbolted all the bolts from the front oil pump and pryed it away from the block to where I can see space inbetween the two. The rear of the crank lifts out a bit, but it WILL NOT move in the front.

What am I missing guys? Shouldn't it all come out and I can cut the sprocket off with a cutoff wheel? I need this crank out so I can build this as my spare race motor. Please lemme know. This is only my second full tear down and I can't remember what I did when I built my last one. Thank you.

[CakeEater]

The dowels in the oil pump are most likely giving you the trouble.

Drill a 3/8" hole parallel to the crank in the crank sproket and put a swrew driver in the hole and pull it one way or the other to crack the pulley. It will come off instantly.

Hope this helps.

[HighwayStar22]

I'll try the drill method tonight.

It's either that, or I thought about torching the outside of the sprocket and then flashing it with cold water to induce a stress fracture, but I'm worried about heat transfer to the crank and potentially damaging that.

[bentvalves]

take a cutoff disk, put a fairly deep notch in it - doesnt have to be all the way down to the crank snout, then use a hammer and chisel to crack it.

[mbmbmb23]

take a cutoff disk, put a fairly deep notch in it - doesnt have to be all the way down to the crank snout, then use a hammer and chisel to crack it.

Thats what I did....sort of. I used a hacksaw and cut front to back with my hacksaw blade sideways...then chiseled. Gotta be very careful not to hit the snout with the blade though.

[r34 gtr]

Laff, stuck crank sprockets suck teh big one. Any of the aforementioned methods work fine. I made a puller and yanked mine off because I was terrified of damaging the crank.

Just make sure you coat the hell out of that part of the crank with anti-seize before you install the new one.

[zero_gripS13]

i sdrilled the sprocet with 2 holes taped them then used a timing gear puller

[HighwayStar22]

i sdrilled the sprocet with 2 holes taped them then used a timing gear puller

I'll be doing that to the new one before it goes on as a JIC measure + hella antisieze.

[CakeEater]

I'll be doing that to the new one before it goes on as a JIC measure + hella antisieze.

Don't drill and tap the new one. Leave it perfect. Antiseize will work like a charm.

[r34 gtr]

Yeah, don't do anything to the new sprocket, just some anti-sieze. The only reason its on there so well right now is that it hasn't been removed in 20 years.

[float_6969]

...Just make sure you coat the hell out of that part of the crank with anti-seize before you install the new one.

Spoken like a true CA-OG.

[HighwayStar22]

I need a chisel. Haha Cut two large grooves with the 4 1/2" angle grinder. I don't have anything smaller, but now I'm sweating things cause I hit the snout with the grinder twice and took a small amount of material off.....

I going to have to take it and have it checked and balanced JIC. Since this isn't a fully counterweighted crank doesn't it have to be balanced with the pulley and flywheel?

[r34 gtr]

Since this isn't a fully counterweighted crank doesn't it have to be balanced with the pulley and flywheel?

Yeah, with the crank pulley at bare minimum. I will be having mine balanced (whenever I can get a job to afford the repairs) with the pistons, rods, crank pulley, flywheel, and clutch. Can't be too careful!