OK, 1st, you're gonna need two amps, 1 4-channel(Class A/B) AMp for the front and rear speakers, and another mono(Class D or B/D)-amp for your woofermarcelo929 wrote:I wanted to use the stock HU non bose ( I would like tokeep a stock look) to power this and was planning on changing both front speakers and rears, and put in an amplifier and probably a 10" or 12" sub. My dad had some old Boston Acoustics 6x9s for the rear decks lying around from his last sound system but, they're 4 ohms so I was wondering if there was anyway I could still use those or if my best bet was buying new speakers. Any help is good, Thanks
Doc is right on with this one. I've seen some excellent stereos that are running off the stock HU. However, they do have all of the gear that doc mentioned, as well as an audio processor to fine tune the system (not that you wanted to go this high-end).rjdmmfl1 wrote:
OK, 1st, you're gonna need two amps, 1 4-channel(Class A/B) AMp for the front and rear speakers, and another mono(Class D or B/D)-amp for your woofer
your stock headunit could NOT properly power your BA speakers by itself...
A processor will allow you to improve some of the audio quality, but it is certainly not necessary. About how much are you looking to spend on the front speakers (if you don't mind me asking)? This will help us throw out some recommendations.marcelo929 wrote:Thanks for the information guys really, I probably will be buying a 5-channel amp even though I have read that two seperate amps is recommendable. I asked at the audio shop if I would need an audio processor such as the JL cleansweep, I believe, yet they said that since my car didn't come equipped with the BOSE system that they would just go with a hi/lo converter, I don't know if thats right or wrong me being new to all of this. and I definitely will look into a set of component speakers instead of the sl65s
I love spending BDay money on audio stuff. Usually works out well. Hmm, for about that price you might be able to get into Doc's world with the BA Pro60's. I've seen sales occasionally on them that dip close to that (I think crutchfield is selling them for about 400 right now, and we all know they're not the cheapest source). Around that price-range I think those are probably the best (I'm not too keen on most of the other tweeters available in sets in that range), and Doc will probably back me up on that one.marcelo929 wrote:Hm, around 300 maybe. My birthday was last month so finally have a decent amount to spend on my car
It should sound good. What amp are you planning on going with? Also, hopefully you can get Doc to chime in with any useful info on those speakers if you go that route. He's got a bunch more experience with them than I do.marcelo929 wrote:Thanks for the info AppleBonker, most definetely will shoot for those Pro60s. Crutchfield sells them on their dent and scrath store, or whatever it is, for about 330. Amp will most likely be bought today if all goes well. This will definitely be a nice first sound system for me
Finally got my Pro 60's spunding better... problem was with my amp... got it fixed now and my front sound stage sounds WAAAYYYYY better.... I don't think I'll be changing out the Pro 60's, but I am getting rid of the rear SL95's (Boston 6x9's)AppleBonker wrote:
It should sound good. What amp are you planning on going with? Also, hopefully you can get Doc to chime in with any useful info on those speakers if you go that route. He's got a bunch more experience with them than I do.
Glad you got that tuned up a bit. Are they hitting a bit lower more cleanly now? You said you were having a tough time with the bass out of the pro 60's, so I'm hoping you got that fixed. What was the amp doing?rjdmmfl1 wrote:
Finally got my Pro 60's spunding better... problem was with my amp... got it fixed now and my front sound stage sounds WAAAYYYYY better.... I don't think I'll be changing out the Pro 60's, but I am getting rid of the rear SL95's (Boston 6x9's)
marcelo929 wrote:Thanks for the info AppleBonker, most definetely will shoot for those Pro60s. Crutchfield sells them on their dent and scrath store, or whatever it is, for about 330. Amp will most likely be bought today if all goes well. This will definitely be a nice first sound system for me
stupidhead512 wrote:I purchased my Pro60s on Ebay for $240. On top of that, I used live.com's cashback promo to get another 25% rebate that will be coming to me in about a month and a half. Here is how it works:
1. Open Internet Explorer (doesn't currently work with Firefox for whatever reason).
2. Go to http://www.live.com.
3. Do a search for some item. The items you search for to make this work varies. Currently, you can search for "boston acoustics pro 60".
4. You will see a banner ad at the top of the search results. One of them is for ebay and states "You may get 25% off with Paypal if eligible." If you don't see it, click the search button again a few times until you finally see the banner. Click that and it will take you to ebay.
5. Make sure you see the 25% back logo at the top of ebay. It is important that this shows up throughout the entire process. If it does not, THIS WILL NOT WORK.
6. Search ebay for the Boston Acoustics Pro 60. Find a seller selling them with "Buy It Now" and also accepts Paypal (most do).
7. Complete the But It Now transaction and you will receive an email in your ebay mailbox giving instructions to claim your cash back. It will be available in about 60 days.
I used this to purchase the equipment for my Altima. I purchased the Kenwood DDX-812, Boston Acoustics Pro 60 component speakers, BA SL95 6x9s, Rockford Fosgate T600-4 amp, Fosgate T1600-1bd mono amp, 2xP3D212 subs for a hair over $1500 after I get my cash back.
Best of luck with your purchase. Crutchfield is great for research, but unless their stuff is on sale for about 40-60% off, then they are over priced.
B
Doc is right about this one. Make sure you read the FAQ sticky on gain setting. You will need to use the max power handling of the subs, not the amp. This will keep the gain turned down to an acceptable level. Powering subs with an amp that can blow them is usually a good thing (it keeps the amp far from clipping and will provide clean power to the subs). The only caveat to that is the need to keep the gain turned down so you don't overpower the subs. Some subs can handle far more than they're rated for, but testing this on your own would be a bad idea. Again, I can't stress the gain setting tutorial enough in this case! Follow that, and you'll be ok.rjdmmfl1 wrote:Ohhh, you're running 2 P3's off of the T1500-1bd? you got the Dual 2 ohms subs, so my guess is you're running them at a 2 ohm load... congratulations, you've just found a way to blow your subs...
You will need to keep the gain wayyy down on that amp, and even then, you'll be giving those P3's all they can handle plus some... the T1500-1bd will most likely be doing about 1100-1200 RMS @ 2 ohms (not the 1000 that is states)... the P3's are comfortable @ 400 RMS, they will begin to distort @ 500 RMS, and @ 600 RMS you will literally be smelling the coils burning on the P3's when you have your system cranked @ high volumes...
I've heard 2x P3's driven by a T1500-1BD, and I could smell the coils burning with the rear seat down and the system cranked up.
Be very careful with this setup, you can easily blow those P3's up with that amp! These are not JL woofers, so you MUST go easy on them for the first 2-3 weeks and let them break in! Good luck!!
As you get more into higher-end amps, they are generally underrated somewhat. This is a good thing as it gives the amp more headroom. It will keep the amp further from clipping when being used at it's maximum rated capacity. Make sure you still set gains based on the rated efficiency.stupidhead512 wrote:As usual, thanks for the feedback gentlemen. I guess that is what I get for assuming the RMS on the ratings are accurate. :-)
Its not your fault dude, I've been following RF for over 10 years, and I've witnessed the ups, downs, and ups again for the company!stupidhead512 wrote:As usual, thanks for the feedback gentlemen. I guess that is what I get for assuming the RMS on the ratings are accurate. :-)
rjdmmfl1 wrote:
Its not your fault dude, I've been following RF for over 10 years, and I've witnessed the ups, downs, and ups again for the company!
The P3 subs are comparable to the old Punch HE2 subs... those things were rated @ 400 Watts RMS, the new T1's are comparable to the Punch HX2 subs, and those were rated @ 500 watts RMS, and the new T2 subs are comparable to the old POWER HX2 subs, and those were rated @ 1000 Watts RMS...
For marketing reasons (JL being a big competitor) they released the specs of the 12" P3 subs taking a nominal 500 Watts RMS... However this is at the UPPER end of what the P3 can handle ,RMS wise.
If you look at the Shallow 12" P3 and the regular 10" P3, they both have the more accurate 400 watts RMS power handling!
So, long story short, you will be applying ~ 550 - 600 watts RMS to a speaker that really only wants ~ 400 watts RMS... Again, not your fault, but you should ALWAYS do a lot of research on your stereo systems before buying them... and not bragging at all, but it would be hard pressed finding someone that really knows the ins and outs and history of Rockford's AMPS and SUBS
Modified by rjdmmfl1 at 12:14 PM 8/6/2008
If a thread lasts long enough, it will always get derailed. Anyway, do you have any better idea of what amp you're going to try to get? I know that determination wasn't made previously.marcelo929 wrote:Hey if its helping a fellow NICO member why not
Hmm, not too familiar with JL amps. I've heard mostly only there subs and sub amps. There decent products, but I feel (obviously this is just my opinion) that they tend to be a touch overpriced. That being said, I've been very happy with my Sundown amp. They do have a 4-channel amp around the price of the JL you mentioned but it has more power. You can find it here from and authorized retailer. Just another option as long as I hear what you're saying correctly. Are you looking to spend 350-500 on the amp? Or is that amp and speakers combined? Are you still planning on the BA Pro 60's and putting your old BA 6x9s in the rear deck? If so, an amp like the sundown would do wonders.marcelo929 wrote:Update is that on the 14th of this month, my parents will give me 300 dollars and I can pretty much buy whatever I want I just have to pay for the rest. Trying to keep it anywhere between 350-500 maybe. At the moment i'll probably play it safe with a T-400 from RF or anybody have any idea if the new JL G series is any good? I just saw the G4500 so maybe that. Went to a local audio shop and they seem to do pretty much any installation with DB drive amps but haven't read anything about them lately so more than probably not the best choice. Still got time to think about it
Ha, my parents always thought I was spending too much money on my toys. In the end, it came down to the fact that it was my money. And, if you get the amp first, everything will be ready when you move forward on the Pro 60's.marcelo929 wrote:Spending 350 on the amp by itself is pretty much what i'll end up doing, sounds the most reasonable to me. The BA Pro 60's are on hold for now, dad isn't convinced I need them , but the 6x9's are already hooked up, for now im only using my front speakers till I get that amp installed. I'll probably go with that JL amp, just cause i'll find it here instead of ordering online. Time goes by so slowly all of a sudden, I want my amp noww
Amazingly I didnt search for an authorized retailer around my area, thanks! I'll go check them out sometime next week for sureAppleBonker wrote:
Ha, my parents always thought I was spending too much money on my toys. In the end, it came down to the fact that it was my money. And, if you get the amp first, everything will be ready when you move forward on the Pro 60's.
For what it's worth, you're in Mission and there's an authorized Sundown retailer in your area in Edinburg:
NuStyle Performance & Sound- Edinburg, TX- (956) 929-9884
Might want to check them out just for the fun of it. If they sell Sundown, they probably also have some other nice gear.