Bose sub

[Amosnorider]

I took a look under the rear deck where the sub and amp are, and noticed my sub really was not doing much. If anything at all. I'm thinking it's not working. Anyone got suggestions? the amp was not warm at all after an hour long drive bumping tunes the whole way. Is there a fuse blown maybe? Where would that fuse be ? Anyone else having trouble with their stock Bose sub? Thanks in advance for advice!!!

[Amosnorider]

Also when I fade to the rear pair of speakers all the bass is gone. For those of you who have working factory subs: do you still hear the sub when you fade all the way to the rear?

[zgoug]

I never looked at my sub, however it sounds like the amp is the problem. If you have your owners manual it should should the fuse arrangment. The amp itself may also have its own fuse - also check for loose wires. Good luck

[Amosnorider]

Got my sub working. Just removed the crossover circuit board. And pluged the remaining harnesses back together. Simple. Can't find a replacement anywhere. Removing the crossover might change the sound. But I'm not sure.

[Markc]

Sounds like a failed component on the cross-over board. Either an inductor or resistor I would think. Where is this board located by the way? Could be the cause of several complaints of sub fading in and out.It will definitely change the sound as high frequencies will now be passed on to the sub.

[Amosnorider]

The part is right next to the sub wrapped in grey foam. Disconnect the brown plugs and get rid of that whole section. It's the black box under the plastic that is the problem. I would bet most sub problems are cause of this part. If anyone knows where to get a replacement please post it.

[Markc]

Got a picture of it? Unless the board is encapsulated in plastic, I'll bet it can be repaired. I'm into high end 2 channel home audio and design/modify crossovers and equipment.

[Amosnorider]

The board is wrapped in clear plastic and with foam around it. The clear plastic does not seal the board it's just a cover that can be cut off. The semi conductor crossover board is accessable to repair/resolder. But I'm thinking the small black box that the red power wire and blue signal wire go into is the faulty part. Which seems to not be serviceable. My sub sounds pretty good now that is working but I'm sure it's putting out much highter frequencies than it's designed to. Also it has a power up power down "thump". Not too bad but kinda annoying.

[Markc]

Since the board is otherwise junk anyway, do you want to send it to me to see if I can fix it? I'd be happy to check it out for you. Oh, and at no charge as well.

[audtatious]

Woofer issues are troubleshot via:

1. Check 15A fuse [No. 67, located in fuse block (J/B). Verify battery positive voltage is present at terminal 48 of woofer.2. Check harness continuity between audio unit terminal 12 and woofer terminal 45.3. Check harness continuity between woofer terminal 47 and ground.4. Check the output circuits to woofer from speaker amp.

If it is the passive crossover component then take it apart and check the pieces. It's either a resistor or a resistor/coil combination.

[fivestar]

Same problem. Anyone have one they're willing to sell? I'm guessing if you've put in an aftermarket sub this isn't used anymore. Would it be bad for the sub to just remove it as he described?

[win1]

I have one but it goes in the Q45 which is a 10" sub

[Markc]

Same problem. Anyone have one they're willing to sell? I'm guessing if you've put in an aftermarket sub this isn't used anymore. Would it be bad for the sub to just remove it as he described?

Or a cold solder joint(s) on the board.