Boost Sputtering

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
89'ClubK's
Posts: 244
Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:26 pm
Car: 89' Nissan 240SX

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Any idea as to why a car would run lean and sput out once I start to boost?I'm using a Walbro pump, T28, Z32 MAF, and 370cc injectors. I thought perhaps the injectors were the problem, but I've been told they should be able to hold some boost. My car won't boost at all w/o sputtering.I'm using the SAFC-II to richen up the fuel, but it isn't enough.Perhaps the Dropping resistor isn't putting out enough voltage for the injectors?


boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
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89’ClubK’s wrote:Any idea as to why a car would run lean and sput out once I start to boost?I'm using a Walbro pump, T28, Z32 MAF, and 370cc injectors. I thought perhaps the injectors were the problem, but I've been told they should be able to hold some boost. My car won't boost at all w/o sputtering.I'm using the SAFC-II to richen up the fuel, but it isn't enough.Perhaps the Dropping resistor isn't putting out enough voltage for the injectors?
Between your AFC and Z32 AFM, your problem is embedded. And it's definitely not the droppinmg resistor. Also, if you have done it already, check the intercooling pipes for leaks.

Dee

89'ClubK's
Posts: 244
Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:26 pm
Car: 89' Nissan 240SX

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I've been fighting wiring issues since I remember. The car did run like crap, and I found a crack in my SMIC. I since installed my FMIC. HMMMM....Could it be an injector getting weak? I had them tested along with the coil packs awhile back, but who knows? Thanks for the replies!

boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
Contact:

Post

89’ClubK’s wrote:I've been fighting wiring issues since I remember. The car did run like crap, and I found a crack in my SMIC. I since installed my FMIC. HMMMM....Could it be an injector getting weak? I had them tested along with the coil packs awhile back, but who knows? Thanks for the replies!
Did your fuel pump yet?

Dee

89'ClubK's
Posts: 244
Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:26 pm
Car: 89' Nissan 240SX

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It's been mentioned, but I figured it out being a brand new Walbro.I've also been told that fuel pumps are like starters, as you can get a bad new one. I've checked the lines along with the FPR. I'll check the wiring on the pump and completly re-install it. That will put one more issuse to rest, hopefully. I also changed the ignitor. Thanks!

89'ClubK's
Posts: 244
Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:26 pm
Car: 89' Nissan 240SX

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Fuel Pump tested ok today. I did find out that my intake butterflies keep staying shut. That explains why the car sputters in higher rpms before it goes to shift. Can someone please show the diagram on how they should be hooked up (I know it's been shown 20 times). I've been told that you only lose a little bit bottom end torque if you plug the 4 holes on the side, and I've also heard that you can run with the butterfles open at all times.What benefits could doing this be? Which route is best suggested?Thanks!

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biosehnsucht
Posts: 1839
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 10:20 pm
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what model walbro, and is it a stock FPR? some of the walbros can overrun the abilities of the stock, 15 year old FPRs.. mine was running horribly rich, but I have the high pressure walbro 255lph model. I replaced mine w/ a Nismo adjustable unit and adjusted it to spec and that fixed that..

89'ClubK's
Posts: 244
Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:26 pm
Car: 89' Nissan 240SX

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The popular 255lph model. The FPR tested alright. My car will run extremly lean before it goes to shift. Around 1800-2000 rpm. It isn't over-loading.I desperatly need the diagrams to hook up the vacumm lines on the intake. thanks!


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