I picked up a ka24de with 150k miles on it that blew a 18% leakdown. This was cold after sitting for about a year so i have no idea how accurate this is pobly very poor indictaion of its health. The guy i bought it from of course said it ran fine no problems he pulled to do a full sikky ls1 OMFG built for like 550whp.

Anyways should i take the time to throw it in run it for a while and redo the leakdown and or compression test and cross my fingers it be good enough. Keep in mind i would like to do this run a very low boost set up shooting for 200hp.

If it is a success then i would pull it out next winter for a full forged bottom end etc. trying to make reliable set up equal to what a ls1 would put out. <--little cheaper than going that route i think plus making it easy to keep a/c and pwsteering
!!!!

comp test it, if you get(evenly) 195psi or better(bit less cold), boost it. You should be able to pull off your goal even on a beat up motor. 7~8psi of boost a walbro with fmu and a couple degrees off the base timing. 200 easy. Now going after an ls1 power is more involved, but cory made over 5hundy on a stock block with head studs....

165 is acceptable IIRC...

You can't do a compression test on a cold motor. So it's a small gamble, say 12 man hours if it is bad. Or it could be good and you can press on. I'd install it, run some engine cleaner through it and seafoam the intake. Then run the compression test.

Just my .02

Well after much debate you guys are right the gamble is worth the time in a sense. Plus in the end i could have a hairline crack in the head or it has been apart before and ....anything could be wrong. Ill just wing it put it in and hopefully end up with a LOW boost set up i can play with worst case it blows and im back to where i am now.

so since im going for a 200hp ish ...is there a way to make a sr20 t25 only go to say 6psi without creating a boost leak or using a carb. spring....hahaha

yes i know i can run an external wastegate i just thought there might be an aftermarket actuator or a oem part that will work for shur??? this is really stumpin me i searched around a bit .....


i know i know and yes im jsut going to run an fmu and a walbro to start me off --its not my daily driver

I'd use a different turbo unless you already have the T25 stuff. If you have it, just run a 6:1 FMU and maybe back the base timing out 2 degree's. It won't be the fastest, but the boost will be pretty much immediate. You can port the internal wastegate hole out some, so it is just covered by the flapper. This will increase exhaust flow some, which is good because that turbo is very small.

WD

Yea i know a t25 would be a little small but im on a budget and can pick up a sr20t25 reman for like 250! That sounds like the best way to go next to an ebay t3t4......
If there is a better option like t28,td03???? little lost on ones that would work for my application.

RB20det has a hybrid t25<-- slightly bigger exhaust turbine i guess i would imagine that would be IDEAL for a 250-300hp application as far as turbo lag and compressor effc.


I put a rb20det into a 95 240sx wired it myself and have rebuilt a few honda motors. I've read corkybell but im still lost on APPLICATION you know what i mean. I read both stickys got on ka-t org but its really hard to find budget set up build lists!!!!!!!! Most of the time its either they got 6k into their $hit and its like a shop car or its a fabbed and its probly kinda junk. Now if you jump on hondatech and search turbo set ups its almost like putting together a lego set. CAKE

CXRacing has a T28 for $289 new. I hear they are actually balanced to. So far we've had a few members use their turbo's with good results. Prices like that are hard to argue with. They also have entire kits for the t28 for pretty damn cheap.

WD

If you will point me in the direction to find the best turbo,manifold,wastegate set up that will work and be reliable to an extent for cheap i realize those dont go hand in hand.

EBAY manifold w/ external wg------150ish
sr20det reman------------------------250ish
tial adjustable wastegate------------250ish
vortech fmu----------------------------200
walbro----------------------------------100

so that comes out to 950 add in gaskets lines bungs 150 and of course a WIDEBAND 200 LC-1 im looking at bout 1300$

Keep in mind most of the parts can be found on craigslist ebay etc. for cheaper!!! but you normally gotta wait which i plan to till i get everything together. What are your thoughts on this set up? Is anyone else running something similar? Where should i spend more money if need be. Again if something like the exhaust manifold lasts a year and cracks that GOOD enough ill upgrade later EASY to DO.



from what ive read everything listed here should work just fine on a 6psi <<<--- hopefully bout 200hp set up

to get to 250 would be a simple injector swap and wire in an safc take out fmu

300 gonna need a different turbo fuel management needs to be up there ..unless of course youve done it before are a tuning guru and can get 300 ponies wtih a safc ....... have deep pockets or are a SMARTMOFO and did megasquirt hahaha

You think i could wing it and not get the wideband..... opting for oil and boost guages instead probly bad idea.

I can give you some cheap and pretty reliable options. What are your goals? You're going to piss away a lot of money if you start with a T25 setup and then go to a T3 later. Your best bet is to figure out what you'll be happy with and then aim for THAT goal. Don't settle, it will lead to lots of waste.

Keeping in mind that 300whp in the S Chassis makes it pretty damn fun to drive and you should be able to make that much power with a T28, but you'll have to crank the boost pretty high to do it. That's not really a big deal because you'll have to spend the same amount of money on tuning regardless of turbo selection. We'll get to tuning in a second. Lets start with turbo choices.

You can go with a T2 flanged setup, meaning T25 or T28. Or you can get a T3 setup, which lets you run a turbo big enough to support 600whp. Obviously you only want to make this decision once. The cheap T28 kit from CXRacing is a good start, but I doubt that turbo will support 300hp. The T28 that does support that much power is about $1200. The T2 flanged turbo that supports an efficient 300whp will have the same amount of lag that a T3 turbo in a .48AR will. So don't buy into the lag BS. However, if you get the T28 kit from CXRacing you'll have almost instant boost. The problem being that it's out of steam at 300 hp and the T2 exhaust housing is a restriction.

The T3/TO4E kit from CXRacing will support 450whp and make more power with less boost when compared to the T28 kit. But there will be more lag, say full boost by 3200 instead of 2500.

The tuning side is simple and is really a lot easier then people think. If you need to run low boost and save money, just use the 255lph pump and the 6:1 FMU. But you can't run more then 8 psi without needing some form of ignition retard. The next step above the FMU should be a full on fuel system mod. You'll want bigger injectors, a better filter, a new MAF and a tune that matches the MAF and injector size. Your best bet is to decide on a ROM tuner then find a tune that suits your needs and buy the parts that match it.

If you wanna piece together a kit, buy an EBAY cast manifold for $90, a used Holset for around $350, EBAY fmic kit and fab the downpipe yourself. Apply the same advice for tuning no matter what choice you make.

So what are your goals?

WD

All this stuff is real new to me so here goes. I recently purchased a 93 240SX with blown head gasket, was replaced with used motor and now and runs fine. Came upon a TD04H turbo for $50, guy purchased and was given a T28 or something for his Bday. Basically I'm starting on which end i dont know. I want to build the blown motor for this turbo with a small budget to work with I figure over 4 months or so, I could have all the right parts with the pros (you guys) help, and turn everything over to a reputable shop in the ATL area. I'm not trying to get crazy just around 250-300HP would be more than enough to hold me until i get more knowledgable and move on from there. Please I need your help, anyone. The guy I purchsed the car from ran out of coolant because of broken resevoir and the top of the pistons are black. I know how to rip apart and put back together because I had a SRT-4 in my eclipse without the turbo but turbo is all a new game to me.

JDMice wrote:All this stuff is real new to me so here goes. I recently purchased a 93 240SX with blown head gasket, was replaced with used motor and now and runs fine. Came upon a TD04H turbo for $50, guy purchased and was given a T28 or something for his Bday. Basically I'm starting on which end i dont know. I want to build the blown motor for this turbo with a small budget to work with I figure over 4 months or so, I could have all the right parts with the pros (you guys) help, and turn everything over to a reputable shop in the ATL area. I'm not trying to get crazy just around 250-300HP would be more than enough to hold me until i get more knowledgable and move on from there. Please I need your help, anyone. The guy I purchsed the car from ran out of coolant because of broken resevoir and the top of the pistons are black. I know how to rip apart and put back together because I had a SRT-4 in my eclipse without the turbo but turbo is all a new game to me.

Make a new thread.

200-250 is more than enough id rather stay away from having to upgrade cooling system, drivetrain, brakes!!! Honestly if my goal was higher than that id opt. for a swap just for streetability.

Although now that you bring up holsets...HX35 i think it was all over rb20det threads

I think that would be a little large for my power goals and my options for affordable fuel control. I read about them something about being a VTN vatin???? variable compressor blades actuated by oil psi i dont know if they all are or if anyone knows or maybe you dont have to use it ((another thread for that one i guess))



I think a t28 would be the right size. The only thing i can think of that came with that is a notchback sr20. Now the rb25 turbo is a STEEL exhaust wheel t25 intake t3 exhaust i guess? Anyways i know its good for a little above 14psi on an rb which puts you at bout 260 ponies. Which sounds affordable and ideal.

I looked on ka-t and didnt see any cheap log style manifolds 90$? JGS has a solid looking manifold but the price tag is way outta my pockets for this build. So i guess i just need to find a T2 flange manifold with external wastegate that keeps A/C!


Lastly on a side note LOT OF STUFF ^
I talked to a buddy of mine and he was running a vortech fmu on a civic running like 6psi using an safc on top of it to further fine tune it. He said it worked but was finikey. Honestly from what ive read i cannot see a 6-8psi set up being finikey at all its a "scaled increase in fuel to boost psi id imagine it would run better(less little problems) than piggyback set ups or cheap freeware ROM stuff? I had quite the experience with turboedit for obd0 honda ......yea dont try to solder for your first time on a PCM.

-FMU User FEEDBACK- LOW boost of course SAFC technically is just as bad


FMU-possibly bust fuel line FIRE / injector,pump,fuel line fail= ENGINE probly fail .....etc.
SAFC-idle like crap intermitten issues ECU relizes ur tricking it pull fuel LEAN=BAD ......etc.
^emanage and stuff same as safc touch better
Freeware- no tech support intermitten issues again sometime really bad stuff some guywrote program....etc.
Megasquirt-got to be a tuning GURU GOD
AEM,HALTECH ....like what the heck expensive not including tuning time licensing ----$$$

-break down of why i am choosing fmu for someone about to HATE on it i think its all hearsay-

I searched a few other forum for fmu stuff and came across this:

I've run 10psi on my set up with no problems. Same set as you have except with a BEGI FMU, t3/t4, and a 255 walboro (which i'm sure you already have). I have the timing at 17 degrees BTDC and my EGT's read no higher than 1500F at full boost redlining fourth gear. My A/F gauge reads just inside rich throughout the entire time. No pinging or knocking either. Hopefully that helps you some
Also, Just for reference, on the dyno last weekend my car put down 200wph at 5500 feet (uncorrected) and like 246whp (corrected) at 10psi on pump gas with A/F reading 11.2 on the wideband (rich as a MF).



Now 100psi+ sounds kind of risky but the HP numbers are impressive. Also i found 6psi internal wastegate actuators for sr20 turbos? i guess they work for all T2's. Just trying to got more info into this thread shoulda called it the LOWBOOSTLOWBUDGET thread.

The FMU is leaps better then the SAFC. PERIOD. Anyone that says the FMU is bad for low boost only does so because they're ignorant.

I had a couple of R32 Skylines over on Oki, the RB20 turbo is good for 14psi before the exhaust wheel rips itself off. The RB25 turbo is slightly bigger and good for a few more psi. But you're not gonna run more then 8 psi, so the RB25 turbo will be a good turbo, you'll just have to rig the downpipe.

...are you the guy that sent me an ecu from OKI for my rb20? emailed aol said rb20 pars are getting hard to find so old? airforce?

I actully have two buddies over there right now maybe ill have to try and get em to ship me one along with a s15 diff.

Thanks for all the input ill try to get back maybe even try to take pictures and stuff for once actually contribute to a forum.

Yup, USAF, stationed at Kadena. What a sweet assignment that was....

Ok i know WD already answered all your boosting questions, but come on. Why not upgrade your cooling system, a Isis cooling package on enjuku racing costs ~$370. That includes a rad 2 12inch fans and rad hoses. Atleast it'll be safe to run in the summer. It'll keep it running safe atleast. Just my opinion.