boost boost boost

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livinglegend2100
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okay, so im bored with my car and decided to throw a little boost it's way this spring . but im not very knowledgeable when it comes to going turbo. I've searched some but im not really sure where to begin to sift through it all.. for the time being (until i can afford to completely overhaul my motor) im gonna do a basic, low boost setup for daily driving. my plans are:

-T25 at 6-7psi-8:1 fmu w/ retarded timing-stock injectors-walbro 255lph-3" exhaust-fmic w/2.5" piping-NGK plugs/wires-and all the other things that arent very applicable to the thread.

my main questions are:

Should i run a bov? ive heard that at low boost a bov can cause your car to actually stall. in which case should i pick up an safc or just not run a bov at all? i would like to avoid compressor surge..

Also, do i need a wideband o2 for tuning purposes or can a shop tune it using the oem o2 unit?

Would i even need a professional tune with this setup?

sorry for the noobist questions. i havent spent much time in the KA-T section yet.

thanks in advance guys


koukiFC
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1-yes run a bov. save the turbos life.

2-personally id always have a wideband on a turbo car especially with no true tune.

imo i would recommend a rom tune over any fmu setup. enthalpy,jwt or if your tight on cash go with efi specialists. do not go emance. a rom tune will save you so much chance and why risk poping the motor.

livinglegend2100
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yea im leaning towards running a bov. but like i said, ive been told that since im only gonna be running 6-7psi a bov might cause my car to stall

im pretty right on cash right now so for the time being im probably going the fmu route. will i need to take it somewhere to get the car tuned with an fmu setup?

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Chris28
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Just recirculate the bov, then your car won't stall because the air is still there, you aren't venting it to atmosphere.

Looks like a good start. I'd say get a wideband, definitely if you are going with the fmu and retarded timing route. If you have the funds get a rom tune, they are the best. I'm getting an eif specialist tune, so when my car is up and running I'll make some sort of review with wb verification.

livinglegend2100
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yea i forgot about recirc. ill definately go that route. thanks

i dont have a ton of money to play with so if i can avoid spending money on an safc and rom tunes and stuff that would be great.

thanks for the info so far guys =]

lrb_2000
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Yeah. Just recirc if it ends up being a problem.... Widebands are nice to have, but I can't keep my eyes off mine while I drive, I get paranoid if it's barely off.. lol.

livinglegend2100
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is it something i need to have or can i get away with the oem o2. further down the road ill get a wideband but if its not neccessary ide like to skip it for now to save money

lrb_2000
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well i'm sure you can get away without one.. the stock one isn't going to do anything for you... it's just scary not to know if you're going lean or not in boost..

It's up to you I guess. If something happens, I hope you have another car, or engine to go in.

livinglegend2100
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oh ya i gotcha. see i wasnt sure if the a/f would be stay stable enough to not worry about it, but if its a big concern ill definately pick one up.

livinglegend2100
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Chris28
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Yeah, the AEM unit is definitely suitable. Haha I just unwrapped mine this morning.

livinglegend2100
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haha congratulations

ill probably order this one tomorrow then before it sells.

Am i going to have to get it professionally tuned with the wideband, or is it something i can do on my own?

livinglegend2100
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buump. i wish the ka-t section got as much traffic as gen chat...

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Chris28
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Well if you are going the fmu route, there isn't really any tuning to be done. Set your timing and call it a day. The Wideband just tells you what the afr's are, it doesn't let you change anything. When you get something like bigger injectors and a new mafs, that's when you need to get some tuning done.

livinglegend2100
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okay thanks. i was wondering because im doing all the work myself (obviously) and i wasnt sure if it was going to need a tune and would be risky to drive with the stuff just bolted on.

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480sx
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If your just doing a FMU setup you dont really NEED a wbo2, but one is nice for a safety measure.

Just run a DSM diverter valve, you can get one for like 40 bucks. Its basically a recirculating BOV.

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WDRacing
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Bosche makes them for like $22 IIRC

livinglegend2100
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nice im definately gonna look into that.

dumb question, and im pretty sure the answer is yes, but i have a set of BC stage 2 cams in the garage. can i run em with the boost setup?

thanks

tehzack
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You really ought to rethink going with an fmu setup. You could at least pick up a used safc for cheap and go find a base setting for what you are planning on running. Cheaping out on engine management is NEVER a good idea.

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WDRacing
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tehzack wrote:You really ought to rethink going with an fmu setup. You could at least pick up a used safc for cheap and go find a base setting for what you are planning on running. Cheaping out on engine management is NEVER a good idea.
This makes two posts by you that are wrong. The FMU is better then the SAFC for a low boost setup. There is NOTHING wrong with the FMU and low boost.

Buying a SAFC requires a wideband for tuning and it also requires bigger injectors. AND you still need to retard the base timing...not to mention the idle and stalling issues almost ALWAYS related to the SAFC.

WD

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480sx
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tehzack wrote:You really ought to rethink going with an fmu setup. You could at least pick up a used safc for cheap and go find a base setting for what you are planning on running. Cheaping out on engine management is NEVER a good idea.
SAFC as a soul tuning device sucks. Its ONLY reasonable use is fine tuning a base rom tune that you would get from Enthalpy or someone. It can also be a good maf translator. Its decel function is a crappy bandaid over a hemorrhage and really doesnt work well at all for VTA bov's.

FMU setups last for years, SAFC setups last for months.

While you say that cheaping out on engine management is never a good idea, you are wrong in this instance. FMU's are the exception to that rule for 8 psi and under.

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WDRacing
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He's just another person that needed to make 10 posts in order to post in the B/S/T forum....

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480sx
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Bleh the 10 post rule is retarded. You can BS 10 posts and still scam someone, i fail to see how its an effective rule at all. If you want to do something make it 100 posts. Much easier to notice a BS member with 100 posts instead of 10, ya know?

I still hate having my time wasted like that.. Along with bad info in Ka-T.

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WDRacing
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Its for spammers and bussineses, not for scammers.

livinglegend2100
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yea ill be doin safc/tuning/injectors and stuff later. i have a motor that needs to be built for that first. i just want a little more fun at my feet for the time being. ha.

how bout those cams though? BC stage 2's gonna be okay with my setup? i dont want them to sit around any longer.. i searched and found a thread that said for smaller turbos, stock cams would be ideal, whereas the high perf cams should be used for larger turbo applications
Modified by livinglegend2100 at 2:45 PM 12/28/2008

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480sx
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Any cam upgrade is good for any turbo size. If you want to get into the specifics, then you go with for say an enormous turbo with a very high lift/duration. Or a smaller turbo with lower hp goals with mild street cams.

WD - Ah

livinglegend2100
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sweet. ill have to throw those in too. Do i need to modify the oil pump or will the oil lines for the turbo just bolt into it? Or do i need to pick something up to accomodate the lines? sorry for all the noobish questions im more of a hands-on learner than a research/reading learner...

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480sx
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It sounds more like you would rather just be spoon feed learner.

All the info for oiling is covered in the Ka-T info sticky up top.

livinglegend2100
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haha yea i really wish someone would just hold my hand through it all

i must have missed that part of the sticky when i skimmed through it. ill check it out again

livinglegend2100
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okay so i read through it again, and searched through a couple more threads, but most dont go in depth as ide like...

from my understanding, the oil feed line gets T'd into the oil sending unit, and the oil return line gets tapped into the oil pan (welded bung). please correct me if im wrong

any details im missing?


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