Bodykit questions - Please help!

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AZhitman
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Hey guys - A few questions:

I've ordered a bodykit for the S13 from Chris at Underground (great price!). It's fiberglass-reinforced plastic. I need to know a few things...

(Pardon my stoopidz, I haven't messed with a body kit since a front wing on a late 60's GM musclecar.)

How does the kit attach? I assume the front and rear simply replace the stock bumpers and use the stock hardware?

How about the sides? How do they attach?

How well do these typically fit? Do they require a lot of cutting / sanding or is it pretty much a "prime-paint-and-attach" deal?

Can this be done without a bodyshop? Without damaging my factory paint? Do i gotta drill holes?

Anything else I should know?

p.s. I got the DFTR front and sides and the Vertex rear, looks like the pic in the Heavy Throttle banner to the left.


PGBrian
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i'll draw you a picture

BAMPERSnormal folk - bolts, screws, nutsme - zipties

SKIRTSnormal folk - screws, rivits, double sided tapeme - zipties

FITMENTif it is a quality company, fitment is perfect. no trimming or altering necessary

LOCATIONdo it at home, unlesss you suck at tools and thinking.

DFTRwell, this is the raceon kit? better get out the dremel to cut those *****es to make them fit.you picked BAD FITMENT.

PGBrian
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oh, i saw that you bought the REAL stuff.well, your job just got much easier.

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yashin
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Like he said bolts or zipties, you can also get them molded on, but I wouldn't recommend them.

It's kind of late now, but try to stay away from fiberglass. Either get urathane or blue-class fiberglass.

PGBrian
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what is wrong with fiberglass?

TrunkMonkey
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fiberglass doesn't flex. the kit is FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) which isn't too bad. urethane is the best.

-demetrius

TrunkMonkey
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AZhitman wrote:p.s. I got the DFTR front and sides and the Vertex rear, looks like the pic in the Heavy Throttle banner to the left.
i hate you.

-demetrius

marshun
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yashin wrote:Like he said bolts or zipties, you can also get them molded on, but I wouldn't recommend them.

It's kind of late now, but try to stay away from fiberglass. Either get urathane or blue-class fiberglass.


that blue class **** is a gimmick. trust me. i've dealt with it.

BomexS13
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THe front and back bumper just replaces the stock ones and uses the stock holes. YOu said you got the REAL one so the holes should line up good.

As for the sides, you have to screw it underneath the fender well by the fenders.

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yashin
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marshun wrote:that blue class **** is a gimmick. trust me. i've dealt with it.


No. It's not. You clearly haven't worked with good quality blue class fiberglass.

I've worked with a large company that makes it.

Blue class is MUCH more flexible than regular fiberglass. Trust me. I have pics if you'd like. R

Real fiberglass has a habit of breaking very very easily. Blue class fiberglass **if done right** is very flexible.

tar0icy_w/tapioca
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i think u just need to get the kit, lay it out and see how it fit, then take ur time and modify it to fit the way u think its best, and i would use bolts because zip ties to fail, use zip ties to reinforce if u must but i wouldn't count on itfiberglass is less dependable but cheaper to makethe kit u got sounds like a well made one though i would count on it cracking

Altiman94
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do you plan on doing this yourself greg or having a body shop put it on and hten paint it for you all in one big step?

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AZhitman
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I plan to prep, paint and install myself.

I bought the 'vert as a PROJECT car, which means I intend to do all the work.

I'm currently rehabbing a NASTY set of JDM-only rims...

Altiman94
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have you had car painting classes before greg? Im just curious since you plan on doing it yourself. I wouldnt trust myself near a paint gun

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yashin
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what rims?

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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I have restored a couple antique cars, had one in World of Wheels 1989.

Rims = JDM Racing Sparco Speeders.


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