Body kit install and paint

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
jrc90240sx
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 9:21 am

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MustangManV6 - What do you have done to your mustang? My friend has a 99 V6 also, has a procharger on it running the 13psi pulley.

sorry to hijack the thread


LSB_11
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Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 10:52 am
Car: cars, motorcycles, sports, flying,

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i have been told to use 3M addhesive tape, i is a special tape only sold at paint stores, i need to pick some up for my sideskirts, the precious owner had put them on, and it seems he didnt do a good job or something, but this is what the guy uses at the shop we all go to. and he also fiberglasses a stud into the fiberglass at really hard pionts in the kit that like to bow out, then drills a hole in the body and puts a nut on the inside, so you cant see a screw or bolt when looking at the kit. i live in Platte City MO. if anyone needs help in the KC MO/KS area, let me know. and you usually have to sand or "fit" a kit to your car.

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onosqv
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Car: '92 240sx Vert
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LSB_11 wrote:i have been told to use 3M addhesive tape, i is a special tape only sold at paint stores, i need to pick some up for my sideskirts, the precious owner had put them on, and it seems he didnt do a good job or something, but this is what the guy uses at the shop we all go to. and he also fiberglasses a stud into the fiberglass at really hard pionts in the kit that like to bow out, then drills a hole in the body and puts a nut on the inside, so you cant see a screw or bolt when looking at the kit. i live in Platte City MO. if anyone needs help in the KC MO/KS area, let me know. and you usually have to sand or "fit" a kit to your car.


Ok, I'll look for the tape. That's one issue down.

So what grade of sandpaper do you use and is there a special sanding technique?

Thanks

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SoCalS14
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Black240, I just got my Bomex kit, and I was wondering about the sideskirts, did you have to trim yours? Around the top where meet with the body? The lip there seems to not allow the screws (where the mudflaps are) to line up...

caliracer240
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My vertex kit fitted BEAUTIFULY, but a shop did it all and i just waited. WAY TOO EXPENSIVE for fiberglass though. I would understand 1700 + shipping for the vertex in urethane, but NOT fiberglass.

BooFa
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 4:27 am

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i'll most definitely post pics up when my project is done!.. lol - but what's it... polyurethane is nice but most definitely.. the paint will fall off... aaannndd.. at high speeds.. the front bumper will actually flap a little bit... which is kinda cool and not at the same time.. lol...

caliracer240
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i had a urethane kit on my past two cars and never had paint "fall off" or have the bumper "fflap". What you must be talking about is unprofessional installs that someone did in their backyard with a flat head and a pry bar.

BooFa
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 4:27 am

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mmm... not really.. once you bump into a curb.. or parking space cement block... and the urethane bends.. most definitely paint will start peeling... if you don't hit anything.. then the paint won't peel... and as for the flapping.... it's not like it was flapping like a penguin.. but you could hear the vibration when going fast and the windows were down..

Scott McLellan
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2002 7:53 am

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I would say for blocking anything out or any mods you have to do to get the fiberglass to fit right if that means bondo or whatever go with 3M 180. I don't know though about 3M cause their sandpaper just like last year started going downhill. I work at a paint shop where we went through a lot of sandpaper and 3M was expensive and wouldn't last long. We went to some that was called REDLINE I think or somthing red--- can't remember now, but it was cheaper and lasted longer and seems to work great. I know it's made in Indianasia or it says it on it. I don't think they make 320 though. Anyways, for any more glassing I'd say 80 grit on a orbital sander to scuff up the surface, for smoothing out any new glass or bondo probly like 180 on a block then finish with 240 and then maybe even 320 to prep for primer. Once a few coats of primer have been applied (have to be applied within a certain amount of time unless you want to resand), block out the surfaces with a block or fold the paper several times and use gentle pressure. Make sure to sand every nook and cranny or scuff them with a maroon scotch brite pad before any primer or paint. I can't stress this enough. Paint will chip, peel, or just not be as durable if you don't sand and scuff all surfaces to be covered. As for the primer, make sure you know what kind of paint you will eventually be applying to make SURE everything is compatible. You can stick with one brand and usually be okay but make absolutely sure.


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