O.k. so the paint on my car is kind of crappy.
Lots of chips cracks and the guy who owned it before me put some bondo on the front bumber. I have a whole new pignose front end for my car already. Its ready to paint.
As for the rest of the body its got some dents and again, a crappy paint job.
Also I took the wing off so I have some wholes that need to be covered. Ive got duck tape over them right now.
Anyways. I need a cheap do it yourself paint job. I was thinking of doing that flat black paint job. How do you do that.
Now keep in mind that I dont know anything. That means I dont even know what kind of sand paper to use.
Now Im not a dumb a$$. Im a fast learner. So If somebody coudl help me out with a step by step write, that would be awesome.
Ive seen a car on hear with a silvia front end on his message with a tight fllat black paint job. Maybe you can help me out.
email: [email protected]
Thanks
Body and paint question (flat black paint job)
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whiterps13
- Posts: 4217
- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2003 9:45 am
- Car: white LE hatch
to get rid of dent but the bondo on and smooth it out, then use sand it out, and keep using finer sand paper to sand it out with water.
to see if its ok to paint touch the undented part to the dented part and if you feel a difference keep sanding.
not sure what sanding paper to use though. i read this off of some site that i forgot.
but that 's just the general idea
to see if its ok to paint touch the undented part to the dented part and if you feel a difference keep sanding.
not sure what sanding paper to use though. i read this off of some site that i forgot.
but that 's just the general idea
crzycav86 wrote:SloS13: How do you open your trunk?
I use the interior latch release thingymabob.
Here's how I did mine:
1. Removed the front bumper, repaired a crack, filled in the recessed area with the Nissan logo so it looks cleaner. Used epoxy, bondo, and bondo gel stuff. Sanded down with 220 till smooth. Also did the same for the front license plate holes.
2. Removed the trunk lid and filled in most of the trunk key hole with epoxy, then bondo, then gel. Did the same for the antenna hole.
3. Went over the car to fill in chips (found some old bondo...Greeaaat) and filled those hoes in with bondo and gel (after sanding down with low-grit (100-180)
4. I dont know about you, but my fenders dent easy as hell if you lean on them, so I took them off and reinforced them with fiberglass.
5. Sanded down the whole car with 220. This sounds bad, but it didnt take that long at all, about 2hrs.
6. Went ahead and made masks for the windows out of a roll of paper I got at officemax.
7. Drove to a secluded spot, masked the glass stuff and started painting. The hood is GONNA BE A BI*TCH. cuz of the angle. Just deal with it. If anybody has some tips on this, please share. In hindsight, I prolly should have propped the hood up before I painted it.
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MainEvent212
- Posts: 4182
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- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE w/ SR20DET+goodies
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AAlmeter
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 5:22 pm
- Car: lacrosse, fabrication, golf, my car
- Contact:
I've done a ton of body work on my 240 (damn Buffalo winters kill it).
Sand off rust, if any. You can use 60 grit for this. I use 24 grit with my angle grinder, but be careful with it...it can dig in very easily.
This will also remove your paint. You want bare metal. For a good job, you do not want to be painting over clear coat, dirt, wax, etc. It will REALLY show up if you use a regular gloss finish....especially black
Once you are down to metal you can start your bodywork. For dents, try to push/pull them out if possible. Bondo is the second choice. Mix up some bondo to be about the color of your skin (assuming you are white), or maybe a little pinker. Spread it on, let it dry and start sanding with 220. It will cut through nice and quick. Repeat as necessary and finish off with 400 grit paper so you dont have many grooves from the 220 paper.
Its also a good time to use some finishing or glazing putty after this. It is harder to work with and takes longer to dry than regular Bondo, but it sands to a very fine texture leaving you with a nice flat surface.
Put on a coat of primer. Follow the directions, if you are getting a orange peel finish (like a GM painted car), you are holding the can too far away, if you are getting runs, too close and too long. Wet sand it with water and 400 grit wet sand paper (its black/dark gray).
One more coat of primer and wet sand again.
At this point I like to do 5 straight coats (let it dry between of course) with your finish paint, in my case super black and I use plasticote (sp?). After that, wet sand with 600 and do a couple more coats. Then wet sand with 1000 grit, until you get a nice uniform gloss. Finish up with rubbing compound. This will really get rid of the imperfections and give you a flat surface that will give you that nice glassy look that shines. Then when thats done, wax.
Depending on your paint, you may want to put on some clearcoats as well. Same deal for that.
Its best to do this for an entire panel, as you will not match the thickness or quality of the original paint.
Obviously, just do that everywhere if you are doing the whole damn car.
There are other methods too. For example, Ive welded in sheet metal to fill holes and Ive also patches with lead. I used both methods on my deck lid because I was afraid that with the slamming and the fact that metal will shrink in the cold a lot more than bondo will, the bondo would separate from the sheetmetal.
Sand off rust, if any. You can use 60 grit for this. I use 24 grit with my angle grinder, but be careful with it...it can dig in very easily.
This will also remove your paint. You want bare metal. For a good job, you do not want to be painting over clear coat, dirt, wax, etc. It will REALLY show up if you use a regular gloss finish....especially black
Once you are down to metal you can start your bodywork. For dents, try to push/pull them out if possible. Bondo is the second choice. Mix up some bondo to be about the color of your skin (assuming you are white), or maybe a little pinker. Spread it on, let it dry and start sanding with 220. It will cut through nice and quick. Repeat as necessary and finish off with 400 grit paper so you dont have many grooves from the 220 paper.
Its also a good time to use some finishing or glazing putty after this. It is harder to work with and takes longer to dry than regular Bondo, but it sands to a very fine texture leaving you with a nice flat surface.
Put on a coat of primer. Follow the directions, if you are getting a orange peel finish (like a GM painted car), you are holding the can too far away, if you are getting runs, too close and too long. Wet sand it with water and 400 grit wet sand paper (its black/dark gray).
One more coat of primer and wet sand again.
At this point I like to do 5 straight coats (let it dry between of course) with your finish paint, in my case super black and I use plasticote (sp?). After that, wet sand with 600 and do a couple more coats. Then wet sand with 1000 grit, until you get a nice uniform gloss. Finish up with rubbing compound. This will really get rid of the imperfections and give you a flat surface that will give you that nice glassy look that shines. Then when thats done, wax.
Depending on your paint, you may want to put on some clearcoats as well. Same deal for that.
Its best to do this for an entire panel, as you will not match the thickness or quality of the original paint.
Obviously, just do that everywhere if you are doing the whole damn car.
There are other methods too. For example, Ive welded in sheet metal to fill holes and Ive also patches with lead. I used both methods on my deck lid because I was afraid that with the slamming and the fact that metal will shrink in the cold a lot more than bondo will, the bondo would separate from the sheetmetal.