well i have a blown hg, i am thinking of building, i'm not going to go crazy on 500hp but i would like 300-350, decent response, not sure the best way to go about it atm, i could either go stock hg and just settle on the 200-250 i have now or do some building, as the head has to come off anyway and this may be my only chance.
right now the car has a xspower fmic with hks ssqvbov (i have heard good and bad things about the xspower fmic, is it ok to keep on there?looks to have 550cc venom injectors, and a newish t25. megan headers(cracking down the road?) and a melon shooter exghaust, don't know the brand but it's beat up.it's rom tuned and i think i would like to keep it that way for simplicity and drivability, i'm willing to sacrifice some hp for $ there, and it will be a predomenently fun street car with weekend track and drag, some tailsliding for fun every once in a while, i'll have another mpg communter to use though most likely.
suspension: apexi exv coils and wicked engeneering front tie rods, some (not installed) pillow ball tension rods, not sure on brand, megan maybe?(blue tube is shape of a nut(6 sides), not a round tube
i don't know the real miles on the engine, and when i bought it i had it compression tested and came up with 110 110 110 105 front to back, do i don't know if it was just a poorly performed test. so i'm not sure how to tell if i should change out pistons or just redo rings, will i have to rehone to just swap out the rings? and as for bearings would any work be needed for those or just swap in new ones and call it a day?
can the apexi headgaskets be reused if i pull the head to do more work later on? i've heard of lot's of people using the fel-pro gaskets on the kade's are they good on the sr's? what psi are they good to? can't find any info on which fel pro to get for the sr20 and where to get it, or should i just go with another stocker?
i was thinking the cams might be an easy change out while the head is off anyway, not sure if i want to do all the valves and springs retainers ect...
idk, any opinions? would i need to re-tune with cams? and what cams to use?(to try and time the mods to not keep retuning over and over.) can i get away with running them just to get it around? romp on it a little?
hey thanks i know this is a crappy post but i appreciate the help, going through a rough time right now and so i guess i'm using the car for my own kind of therapy.
blown hg, thinking of building, looks like i have a shop for the installing
Re: blown hg, thinking of building, looks like i have a shop ... (wrxkyle)
Regardless of your goals, replace your Stock Head Gasket. There are quite a few good manufacturers out therewrxkyle wrote:well i have a blown hg, i am thinking of building, i'm not going to go crazy on 500hp but i would like 300-350, decent response, not sure the best way to go about it atm, i could either go stock hg and just settle on the 200-250 i have now or do some building, as the head has to come off anyway and this may be my only chance..
I have never heard of Xspower, but save your money for when things break, nit just cause they might break. (unless its like valves, or somethign that will save you money in the long run)wrxkyle wrote:right now the car has a xspower fmic with hks ssqvbov (i have heard good and bad things about the xspower fmic, is it ok to keep on there?looks to have 550cc venom injectors, and a newish t25. megan headers(cracking down the road?) and a melon shooter exghaust, don't know the brand but it's beat up.it's rom tuned and i think i would like to keep it that way for simplicity and drivability, i'm willing to sacrifice some hp for $ there, and it will be a predomenently fun street car with weekend track and drag, some tailsliding for fun every once in a while, i'll have another mpg communter to use though most likely.
i don't know the real miles on the engine, and when i bought it i had it compression tested and came up with 110 110 110 105 front to back, do i don't know if it was just a poorly performed test. so i'm not sure how to tell if i should change out pistons or just redo rings, will i have to rehone to just swap out the rings? and as for bearings would any work be needed for those or just swap in new ones and call it a day?[/QUOTE]Search for what your compression readings should be, I think sr13 should be around the 120 mark.
Go witha quality Head Gasket manufacturer and you should be able to re- use your HG a few times. Some people on the board re use the nice metal ones for years. I have found that my cometic is leaking slightly after swaping out heads.wrxkyle wrote:can the apexi headgaskets be reused if i pull the head to do more work later on? i've heard of lot's of people using the fel-pro gaskets on the kade's are they good on the sr's? what psi are they good to? can't find any info on which fel pro to get for the sr20 and where to get it, or should i just go with another stocker?
You are right they would be an easy change, but I usually do not recommend so many changes at once. It is very hard to troubleshoot a lot of things at once. There are stage 2 cams that do not require a swap of springs...etcwrxkyle wrote:i was thinking the cams might be an easy change out while the head is off anyway, not sure if i want to do all the valves and springs retainers ect...
Nope, retune.wrxkyle wrote:idk, any opinions? would i need to re-tune with cams? and what cams to use?(to try and time the mods to not keep retuning over and over.) can i get away with running them just to get it around? romp on it a little?
Yes, this is a very crappy post, if you use the search button, and do some reading all your questions will be answered.wrxkyle wrote:hey thanks i know this is a crappy post but i appreciate the help, going through a rough time right now and so i guess i'm using the car for my own kind of therapy.
Re: blown hg, thinking of building, looks like i have a shop ... (chicos240)
Couple of quick thoughts...
1) Your compression numbers are really low, SR's should be around 160psi for compression. But the consistency is good so I am guessing the test was done wrong. Maybe they did not have the throttle body open?
2) I would not bother with the stock headgasket if you plan on making any kind of power. Supposedly you can reuse the Apexi once or twice, I have no personal experience with this.
3) If you are going to pull the head, throw ARP headstuds in there for cheap insurance.
4) XSPower has a bad reputation, again no personal experience though. Most entry-level intercoolers should be about the same as far as pressure-drop and flow.
5) If you are going to do cams. HKS, Tomei, and Kelford are great cams. Brian Crower is decent for the money (In the past the BC cams were "clocked" wrong from the manufacturer, do not know if this has been resolved. That was like 2+ years ago though). The Greddy Easycams do not seem to be aggressive enough to be worth the money.
6) You may need to retune for the cams, depending how aggressive you go. I would talk to your ROM tuner (JWT or Enthalpy). I got away with bumping my fuel pressure but I also had a wideband to keep an eye on AFRs.
7) I wouldn't worry about valves unless they must be replaced. Valves and a valvejob are an unneeded expenses IMO. If you are going to do valves, look into Mazworx's 6mm exhaust valve conversion, cool little trick.
8) If you're doing cams, you really should do valvesprings. Supertech dual valvesprings is where it's at, but the BCs work well enough.
My $.02
1) Your compression numbers are really low, SR's should be around 160psi for compression. But the consistency is good so I am guessing the test was done wrong. Maybe they did not have the throttle body open?
2) I would not bother with the stock headgasket if you plan on making any kind of power. Supposedly you can reuse the Apexi once or twice, I have no personal experience with this.
3) If you are going to pull the head, throw ARP headstuds in there for cheap insurance.
4) XSPower has a bad reputation, again no personal experience though. Most entry-level intercoolers should be about the same as far as pressure-drop and flow.
5) If you are going to do cams. HKS, Tomei, and Kelford are great cams. Brian Crower is decent for the money (In the past the BC cams were "clocked" wrong from the manufacturer, do not know if this has been resolved. That was like 2+ years ago though). The Greddy Easycams do not seem to be aggressive enough to be worth the money.
6) You may need to retune for the cams, depending how aggressive you go. I would talk to your ROM tuner (JWT or Enthalpy). I got away with bumping my fuel pressure but I also had a wideband to keep an eye on AFRs.
7) I wouldn't worry about valves unless they must be replaced. Valves and a valvejob are an unneeded expenses IMO. If you are going to do valves, look into Mazworx's 6mm exhaust valve conversion, cool little trick.
8) If you're doing cams, you really should do valvesprings. Supertech dual valvesprings is where it's at, but the BCs work well enough.
My $.02
-
wrxkyle
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:28 pm
- Car: 93 silvia conversion sr20 240sx, 2002 wrb wrx
Re: blown hg, thinking of building, looks like i have a shop ... (DuckyD)
so looking around i found this: http://www.frsport.com/Brian-C....html
the cams say they do not require springs, what benefits would the springs give just changing them and these cams, i guess i could always wait on cams as you don't have to pull the heads to do them but if they are going to have the head apart i might as well do them at the same time, how much higher redline can you run with just cams and springs and stock bottom end internals(pistons, rods crank ect.
would you have to machine the crank at all if you are swapping out new main and rod bearings? just rod bearings? and can you just swap out old piston rings with new ones without honing the cylinders?
might go with something like the disco potato turbo in the future for good drivability and power.
the cams say they do not require springs, what benefits would the springs give just changing them and these cams, i guess i could always wait on cams as you don't have to pull the heads to do them but if they are going to have the head apart i might as well do them at the same time, how much higher redline can you run with just cams and springs and stock bottom end internals(pistons, rods crank ect.
would you have to machine the crank at all if you are swapping out new main and rod bearings? just rod bearings? and can you just swap out old piston rings with new ones without honing the cylinders?
might go with something like the disco potato turbo in the future for good drivability and power.